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Helo from pennsylvania

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Hi,
EDIT: I just took a closer look at my argus shutter release, with a flashlight. It seems to be very SLIGHTLY threaded. The shutter release is in a tubular shape, that then has a solid bottom to it. The threading is very light, almost faint, and it doesnt appear as well done as on your model. Mine is from 1952-1954... It has two flash acessory holes on the side, and not three like the 1954 models. Anyways, there you go... I think something like you mentioned could work. I'll go ahead and bite the bullet: What is the cost for a shutter cable like that?
My only goal is to take some self-shots, and maybe also some time exposures in dark lighting, that would require the use of 1/10th of a second and a tripod.

Like so many things in the photography world, there's a a wide range of specs and pricing; here's some offerings. Some will argue for fairly high end stuff, I tend to go slow, since they're easy to lose. I bought my C3 new in very early 1958, it has the two flash jacks, and you can see some of the business end in that previous photo. In general, the longer a cable release is, the harder it is to push -- and if your C3 is like mine, the shutter release is pretty stiff as is. I find something around 8 to 10 inches is usually enough just to isolate vibration. If you want more of a remote release, you might get into the air bulb things which I have zero experience with. For self portraits it might be simpler to talk a friend or neighbor into stopping buy and pushing the button. :smile:

The locking releases can be used with the bulb setting (a quarter turn of that top hat shaped piece around the shutter button) to do long exposures for night shots, that could be useful.

The C3 was made over a long stretch of time and there appear to have been quite a few mods along the way. It might also be that yours was used or abused with cable releases being screwed in and out, or maybe even banged into something and the cable fitting knocked out stripping the threads a bit. It's a tapered thread that seems to be about a #6-32 at the widest part. I used a 6-32 press nut to attach a cable to a pinhole body cap on one of my cameras.
 
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Hello from western PA! If you're ever out by Pittsburgh, there are lots of great places out here to shoot.

Absolutely!
Have you been down to the state hospital?
That's my number one stop, for life.
I have yet to go there...
 
Like so many things in the photography world, there's a a wide range of specs and pricing; here's some offerings. Some will argue for fairly high end stuff, I tend to go slow, since they're easy to lose. I bought my C3 new in very early 1958, it has the two flash jacks, and you can see some of the business end in that previous photo. In general, the longer a cable release is, the harder it is to push -- and if your C3 is like mine, the shutter release is pretty stiff as is. I find something around 8 to 10 inches is usually enough just to isolate vibration. If you want more of a remote release, you might get into the air bulb things which I have zero experience with. For self portraits it might be simpler to talk a friend or neighbor into stopping buy and pushing the button. :smile:

The locking releases can be used with the bulb setting (a quarter turn of that top hat shaped piece around the shutter button) to do long exposures for night shots, that could be useful.

The C3 was made over a long stretch of time and there appear to have been quite a few mods along the way. It might also be that yours was used or abused with cable releases being screwed in and out, or maybe even banged into something and the cable fitting knocked out stripping the threads a bit. It's a tapered thread that seems to be about a #6-32 at the widest part. I used a 6-32 press nut to attach a cable to a pinhole body cap on one of my cameras.

So, a standard shutter release cable will work? Do you advise locking or non-locking?
Sorry, i'm just a n00b. This also assumes that whichever I pick, i can use it with the "I" and "B" settings. :smile:

Thanks for your help!
 
Richard - hello and welcome to APUG from western Massachusetts.
 
Absolutely!
Have you been down to the state hospital?
That's my number one stop, for life.
I have yet to go there...
Nope. If you mean the Harrisburg one, that's about 3 hours from here. There may still be one south of Pittsburgh, but it was slated to be torn down and/or turned into condos. There are also some remaining mills and assorted buildings around. I know of a group that checks out those sorts of places, but I haven't had a chance to go (new baby).
 
So, a standard shutter release cable will work? Do you advise locking or non-locking?
Sorry, i'm just a n00b. This also assumes that whichever I pick, i can use it with the "I" and "B" settings. :smile:

Thanks for your help!

Yes, a standard cable should work. You can use B or I settings either way. The lock is a judgment call; there are two kinds, a thumbscrew thing sticking out of the side of the end you hold in your hand, and the other, a mysterious little hidden spring loaded thing in the handheld end. The latter is enabled or disabled by a quarter turn or so of a disk with a knurled edge located just under the plunger. In my experience, that type tends to get inadvertently engaged when I don't want it, although in most situations that doesn't hurt anything, just annoys. If I were never going to take really long exposures, I'd skip the lock, but since you mentioned night shots on your project list, you might find a lock handy. I have an assortment of different lengths, some with, some without. I don't use a lock much, but I don't do long exposures much.

(Don't know if that helps or confuses, but at least it's not in league with choosing the wrong $1200 lens!)
 
Thanks DWThomas, that's plenty of advice!

I'm thinking about also getting an air bulb for the self shots, just to give it a try.

So, it looks like my money for my new paycheck is going a little like this: 20 rolls of film, tripod, two shutter releases.

The next paycheck will be aimed at a Pentax K1000, and everything else to be tucked away.

Thanks everyone!
 
Thanks DWThomas, that's plenty of advice!

I'm thinking about also getting an air bulb for the self shots, just to give it a try.

So, it looks like my money for my new paycheck is going a little like this: 20 rolls of film, tripod, two shutter releases.

The next paycheck will be aimed at a Pentax K1000, and everything else to be tucked away.

Thanks everyone!

.
Have you considered a Minolta camera, the price is right on the bodies,
and lenses. Might be a bit more versatile than the Pentax, I haven't seen
a K1000 since 1979. So, I might be out of touch with the selection of
Pentax equipment, and accessories.

I'm Just Saying ...


Ron

From The Long Island Of New York,
And The Macro Management, and Long Island @ Large Format APUG Groups
.
 
.
Have you considered a Minolta camera, the price is right on the bodies,
and lenses. Might be a bit more versatile than the Pentax, I haven't seen
a K1000 since 1979. So, I might be out of touch with the selection of
Pentax equipment, and accessories.

I'm Just Saying ...


Ron

From The Long Island Of New York,
And The Macro Management, and Long Island @ Large Format APUG Groups
.

My Grandfather has a Minolta body somewhere, but no lenses. It hasn;t been used in years, and he doesnt want to give it in.

I'm choosing the Pentax for the Nostalgic feeling, which is important for my images... Which is also why I chose an Argus C3.
I'll prefer a classic 70s or 50s camera anyday. Nostalgia is part of it, but i sort of like the "dreamy" and subdued color tones you can sometimes get. I wish I had a good example to show you of what I mean... I do not like over saturation and brightness in color images.
Probably why I like true black and white.

Richard
 
.
The SRT, and XE Series from the 70's are practically BulletProof.
Avoid the 80's generation of XG,XD, X-3,X-5, and X-700 Series.
My XE-7 is 35 years old - at least, I only change the batteries,
and give it film. The meter is still accurate, but I'm a Sekonic
kinda guy anyhows. Grab Grandpas Minolta, and slap a lens on it.
In the past few months I got 2 SRT-101's w/ lenses at thrift shops,
paid less than $15.00 for both.

And the function flawlessly !!!


Ron

From The Long Island Of New York,
And The Macro Management, and Long Island @ Large Format APUG Groups
.
 
.
The SRT, and XE Series from the 70's are practically BulletProof.
Avoid the 80's generation of XG,XD, X-3,X-5, and X-700 Series.
My XE-7 is 35 years old - at least, I only change the batteries,
and give it film. The meter is still accurate, but I'm a Sekonic
kinda guy anyhows. Grab Grandpas Minolta, and slap a lens on it.
In the past few months I got 2 SRT-101's w/ lenses at thrift shops,
paid less than $15.00 for both.

And the function flawlessly !!!


Ron

From The Long Island Of New York,
And The Macro Management, and Long Island @ Large Format APUG Groups
.

The reason why i can't take it (otherwise I would) is because it belonged to his now-deceased brother.

KEH has a BGN Pentax in the 150 range. Maybe i'll get the Minolta eventually.
 
.

Giving you the Minolta would be the best way to
respect his brothers existence !
You might have to explain the situation to Gramps.

WTF ??? : $150.00 for what ??? That's disrespectful to your wallet.

You need that money for film !!!

They didn't cost that much when they were new ....
Do a little eBaying, bid on an item that has a return policy.

I hope when I'm gone, my equipment will be used my son, and his kids ...

.
 
.

Giving you the Minolta would be the best way to
respect his brothers existence !
You might have to explain the situation to Gramps.

WTF ??? : $150.00 for what ??? That's disrespectful to your wallet.

You need that money for film !!!

They didn't cost that much when they were new ....
Do a little eBaying, bid on an item that has a return policy.

I hope when I'm gone, my equipment will be used my son, and his kids ...

.

Ron,
a disrespect, maybe: But buying it any cheaper in todays market would probably mean damage. How many people care about analog or old cameras these days anyways?

I don't mind spending the money, I'm going to have a job for the first time in about a year. Getting new things of value will be good for me.

I understand what you mean, I even agree, but I can't shake the feeling like this is the right thing to do.

As an aside, it's from keh.com, and by the looks of it, they know about the camera and are sure that it works just fine.
$150 for a pentax k1000 with the body, 50 mm lens, and it has lugs. Film is not an issue: a single roll of B&W is 2.09 .
 
.
The K1000 w/ 50mm lens sold for $150.00 Brand Spanking New in the 70's.

I bought my XE-7 body only, used in 1978 for $250.
I can buy a used XE-7 w/ 50mm lens now for $25.00 ...
Something Aint Right With The Numbers.
You went this long without a camera ...
Take a few more days, or another week and shop carefully.
Ask The APUGers ! Get A Second Opinion ...

.
 
.
The K1000 w/ 50mm lens sold for $150.00 Brand Spanking New in the 70's.

I bought my XE-7 body only, used in 1978 for $250.
I can buy a used XE-7 w/ 50mm lens now for $25.00 ...
Something Aint Right With The Numbers.
You went this long without a camera ...
Take a few more days, or another week and shop carefully.
Ask The APUGers ! Get A Second Opinion ...

.

Sounds like a good idea.
I'll make a new thread next Friday when the paycheck rolls in.... and then think a little more.

Or maybe I can go to APUGers for my Pentax K1000, or something like that.
My fear is paying too little, and ending up with a broken camera when I could of spent more and got one that works.
 
.

Unfortunately, I am a Devout Minoltalogist !
All the Minolta cameras that I own that were made before 1978,
are still fully functional. The Cameras I bought after 78 are either
kaput, or sold off due me being disappointed by them. ( XG-9, XD-11 meh, and double meh )
Once You Handle A Black XE-7, You Won't Want Anything Else !

Except For The XK Motor !! ... But that's a long story.
We won't go there ....

.
 
.

Unfortunately, I am a Devout Minoltalogist !
All the Minolta cameras that I own that were made before 1978,
are still fully functional. The Cameras I bought after 78 are either
kaput, or sold off due me being disappointed by them. ( XG-9, XD-11 meh, and double meh )
Once You Handle A Black XE-7, You Won't Want Anything Else !

Except For The XK Motor !! ... But that's a long story.
We won't go there ....

.

Haha, that actually explains a lot!
I was thinking: Why not get a KM or soemthing, instead of the K1000? I now realize my "need" for a K1000 is to be the typical "photography" student. Regardless, I'll take whatever comes cheap(est).

Be on the lookout for the thread next friday.
 
.
We are all photography students.
But, we should never be typical photography students.
If we wanted to be typical, we would all be running around
with DigiSnappers, and $3000.00, 15 MegaPixel cameras ...

I'm Just Saying ...


Ron
.
 
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.
We are all photography students.
But, we should never be typical photography students.
If we wanted to be typical, we would all be running around
with DigiSnappers, and $3000.00, 15 MegaPixel cameras ...

I'm Just Saying ...


Ron
.

Hahahaha. "Digisnappers". Very good point.
I can;t believe it's taking my local camera store a week just o develop one roll of B&W film. Sadly, they deal mostly in digital.. so go figure!
I might have to go to the Mom & Pop camera store.
 
.
In a few weeks you'll be developing your own B&W film !
.

HAHA, in my bathroom, probably. I just need a big black curtain for the back window.

I'll see how much all the supplies are and so on at a later date.... but you're probably right!
 
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