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Hello from Vancouver Looking to Connect with West Coast Alt Process Folks

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Michelle Huisman

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Vancouver, BC
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Hi Everyone,

I'm brand new to this group and really excited to connect with others working in alt processes, especially on the West Coast. I'm based in Vancouver, BC.

Over the past four years, I’ve been focused on tri-colour palladium over gum printing, mostly in Toronto where I had the opportunity to learn from Bob Carnie. I’ve recently set up a smaller lab here in Vancouver and am working to get everything dialed in again.

I’m currently using a NuArc Metal Halide Exposure Unit (32-1Ks), and while it’s gotten me part of the way, it's a bit temperamental—very hit and miss. I thought I had it figured out, but lately, I’ve been struggling with inconsistent exposure times. I’m not sure if it’s operator error or just quirks from an aging machine.

If anyone in BC (or nearby) has experience with this particular unit—or knows a technician who could take a look—I’d be really grateful to connect. Even if not, I’d love to hear from others working with tricolour gum or similar processes.

Feel free to check out my work www.michellehuisman.com, and I’m really looking forward to learning and sharing with this community.

Cheers,
Michelle
 
Welcome aboard Michelle, it's great to have you!
Over the past four years, I’ve been focused on tri-colour palladium over gum printing, mostly in Toronto where I had the opportunity to learn from Bob Carnie.

Well, then you know that Bob has switched over to LED; I think he used NuArc units in the past, too. What did he have to say on the topic? I'm sure you must have discussed it with him during your stay there.

inconsistent exposure times

Are the times actually inconsistent, or do you get inconsistent light output for exposures of the same time?
Overall, for consistency, it's hard to beat a setup that uses a light integrator instead of timed exposures. An integrator measures the amount of UV light that the print surface receives and cuts out the exposure when the integral exposure reaches the set value. This compensates for such factors as aging bulbs, power supply variations etc.
 
Welcome aboard Michelle, it's great to have you!


Well, then you know that Bob has switched over to LED; I think he used NuArc units in the past, too. What did he have to say on the topic? I'm sure you must have discussed it with him during your stay there.



Are the times actually inconsistent, or do you get inconsistent light output for exposures of the same time?
Overall, for consistency, it's hard to beat a setup that uses a light integrator instead of timed exposures. An integrator measures the amount of UV light that the print surface receives and cuts out the exposure when the integral exposure reaches the set value. This compensates for such factors as aging bulbs, power supply variations etc.

Hi,
I’ve printed with Bob on a NuArc and also used his LED system—which really is a dream.
I have an Ian Leake Light Counter for my NuArc, though I’m still using it with time-based exposures. I know I should be working in units since that’s definitely more accurate. Always walking the line between science and art!
It is a newer bulb from NuArc, and I had been getting consistent results—but just recently, I’ve started to notice some variability.
 
Can you determine whether the inconsistencies are in fact due to the NuArc?
And yes, I'd start by switching over to using @Ian Leake's integrator.

In talks with Ian Leake now. Thank you so much. I will let you know if it is the machine or operator error! Truly appreciate your replies.
 
Older light sources often have stability problems, e.g. power supply issues or aging bulbs. I had a customer who was trying to fix inconsistencies in her process for a year. After installing one of my light integrators it was quickly clear that the UV bulb was unreliable and had to be replaced.
 
Older light sources often have stability problems, e.g. power supply issues or aging bulbs. I had a customer who was trying to fix inconsistencies in her process for a year. After installing one of my light integrators it was quickly clear that the UV bulb was unreliable and had to be replaced.

Glad we will be chatting. It is a fairly new bulb but it could still be the problem. Thank you Ian.
 
Welcome to the sunset edge of Canada, from a wee bit north at the end of a side road, in Kitimat. There are a good number of photographers in this group rummaging around BC's south coast and lower mainland areas.

I've been wandering around in the alt process world for a few years now, and think I've landed in my happy place with palladium toned argyrotypes on thin Japanese papers.

There is wealth of information here using refined search features 👍

Welcome aboard!!!
 
Hi Michelle,
A few of the members in our Darkroom Group do at least some work in Alternative processes. I'll send a link to this thread to everyone in the group.
I believe that, of those who have UV light sources, some have LED based units, while others use the older "fluorescent" tubes. No NuArc machines, as far as I'm aware.
The last time I used that sort of light source - in a print shop - I was much younger, and it was a different century!
 
I claim nothing even approaching the entry level experience or knowledge needed to apply for an 'expert level' badge, like some people here have.

Pretty sure this is what I ordered: https://www.amazon.ca/JSVSAL-Blacklight-T5-Integrated-Fluorescent/dp/B07XC27JKG/ref=sr_1_4?crid=GDHTX6PNX90P&keywords=Barrina+UV+LED+Blacklight+Bar&qid=1641353029&sprefix=barrina+uv+led+blacklight+bar,aps,177&sr=8-4&th=1

Have fifteen of them mounted side by side to create a 16x24 bank, but don't foresee printing this big because our printer is just 13 inches wide. Exposures are consistent, so far...

Argyrotype is a printing out process and my times are about 15 minutes. Don't have a vacuum frame, but instead have a 3/8 inch thick piece of 16x20 lead free glass (supposed to absorb less UV) which, so far, has enough weight to ensure good contact between negative and paper.

The contact surface is an open cell black foam which compresses a bit to ensure contact and also absorbs UV light streaming through clear areas of the negative and thin papers I'm using. Avoids light reflecting back up through the paper and losing contrast in dark areas.

This is one of the hazards of this group...all kinds of options flying from all kinds of directions.

Beware and choose tangents carefully!!!!
 
Last edited:
@Bob Carnie good info here. Thank you for the link to photrio.

With time Michelle every question will be answered by this group as it is quite varied in technical and artistic knowledge, and it seems to be a more gentle space to ask questions than before, possibly due to excellent moderation.
Here there are no dumb questions and no worry about being judged so ask away .
 
it seems to be a more gentle space to ask questions than before, possibly due to excellent moderation.

Bob, you're making me blush on behalf of the team of moderators! It's great to have you back and to see you share your knowledge, and I'm very happy that in some small way, we may have contributed to your feeling comfortable in doing so. Thanks very much, again on behalf of the team!
 
Welcome to the sunset edge of Canada, from a wee bit north at the end of a side road, in Kitimat. There are a good number of photographers in this group rummaging around BC's south coast and lower mainland areas.

I've been wandering around in the alt process world for a few years now, and think I've landed in my happy place with palladium toned argyrotypes on thin Japanese papers.

There is wealth of information here using refined search features 👍

Welcome aboard!!!

Oh wow! Your process sounds amazing! Once I am done printing this project, I want to try different papers. Japanese papers are high on my list! I will keep in touch! Thanks for the hello.
 
Welcome to the sunset edge of Canada, from a wee bit north at the end of a side road, in Kitimat. There are a good number of photographers in this group rummaging around BC's south coast and lower mainland areas.

I've been wandering around in the alt process world for a few years now, and think I've landed in my happy place with palladium toned argyrotypes on thin Japanese papers.

There is wealth of information here using refined search features 👍

Welcome aboard!!!

Hi Michelle,
A few of the members in our Darkroom Group do at least some work in Alternative processes. I'll send a link to this thread to everyone in the group.
I believe that, of those who have UV light sources, some have LED based units, while others use the older "fluorescent" tubes. No NuArc machines, as far as I'm aware.
The last time I used that sort of light source - in a print shop - I was much younger, and it was a different century!

Haha! Yep! It might be time to switch but I have had some success with the machine but I need consistency.
 
With time Michelle every question will be answered by this group as it is quite varied in technical and artistic knowledge, and it seems to be a more gentle space to ask questions than before, possibly due to excellent moderation.
Here there are no dumb questions and no worry about being judged so ask away .

Thank you @Bob Carnie. I will be a scientist, alchemist and a mathematician by the time I’m done learning this process! 😂
 
Hello from Seattle! While I’m quite new at alt process printing, there are a number of talented printers near me at PCNW. Bit of a haul from Vancouver but maybe useful to know about the various local enclaves.
 
Hello from Seattle! While I’m quite new at alt process printing, there are a number of talented printers near me at PCNW. Bit of a haul from Vancouver but maybe useful to know about the various local enclaves.

Thank you. Hopefully, I can make it that way soon. I do know of PCNW but have never been there.
 
Hi Michelle
I have about 22 years in darkroom printing, and I love all things alternative, analog and arty. But I'm also an electrician and there are a couple things you can check or change that might help a lot. Inconsistent problems are tricky to diagnose so eliminating as many variables is good. Your unit has two issues that will affect output; the vacuum pump and exposure time. I don't know what your exposure times are but let's kick that can for now. First and most important and I'm sorry but starting at the bottom, the machine should be plugged into the wall, nothing else on it, on its own breaker. No extension cords. Ideally the exposure should be while the vacuum pump is doing the least work or not running. I am not familiar with this exact unit, but it should pull a vacuum, settle and expose. Is this right? The power supply should be separating the pump and the light but heaters and motors don't play well with others. If all these things are good, you might consider a power conditioner, normally used for audio, it makes the sine wave (power) very smooth and consistent for less than a hundred bucks. I feel your frustration and love that you want to figure it out and control it. I am west coast but a bit south.
 
Hi Michelle
I have about 22 years in darkroom printing, and I love all things alternative, analog and arty. But I'm also an electrician and there are a couple things you can check or change that might help a lot. Inconsistent problems are tricky to diagnose so eliminating as many variables is good. Your unit has two issues that will affect output; the vacuum pump and exposure time. I don't know what your exposure times are but let's kick that can for now. First and most important and I'm sorry but starting at the bottom, the machine should be plugged into the wall, nothing else on it, on its own breaker. No extension cords. Ideally the exposure should be while the vacuum pump is doing the least work or not running. I am not familiar with this exact unit, but it should pull a vacuum, settle and expose. Is this right? The power supply should be separating the pump and the light but heaters and motors don't play well with others. If all these things are good, you might consider a power conditioner, normally used for audio, it makes the sine wave (power) very smooth and consistent for less than a hundred bucks. I feel your frustration and love that you want to figure it out and control it. I am west coast but a bit south.

Hi Andy,
Sorry for the delayed reply. Thank you for all of this information. I have tried all of the above except for a power conditioner. I will definitely look into this. Fingers crossed this could be a good solution.
 
Hi Andy,
Sorry for the delayed reply. Thank you for all of this information. I have tried all of the above except for a power conditioner. I will definitely look into this. Fingers crossed this could be a good solution.

You're welcome. If you have any friends with an oscilloscope, that would solve it. Good luck!
 
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