Heiland Splitgrade System

[Michael Firstlight]

This post is for someone that actually uses the Heiland Splitgrade with an automated head to answer. I'm contemplating one for my LPL 4550 XLG enlarger.

Do I understand correctly the following on how the process works…

1. Pick the paper type from the built-in profiles (other than a custom one
2. Specify the film type
3. Stop down the actual using aperture
4. Select the paper grade I want to start with
5. Turn all lights off
6. Press the button on the probe
7. Then, (pick one that's correct as I'm not clear about which is right):
   1. Take two separate readings - one from the lowest density area and a separate reading from the highest density area where I want detail, or
   2. Take a single reading moving the probe around the image across the high- and low-density areas.
8. Expose - and optionally burn/dodge locally during each of the two exposure phases
   
9. Develop – which should yield a decent initial print on first go, preserving (as best can) detail in the highlights and shadow areas by exposing twice automatically with different color filtration.
10. Afterwards, I can then choose to change paper grade and the unit will auto-adjust to the new exposure time while continuing to preserve (as best can) detail in the highlights and shadow areas.
11. Then if I want to increase say, increase or decrease density in the shadows but preserve the highlights where they are, I can go into Preferences settings and tell it to do exactly that.
12. And if I have even more troublesome images, could use the Heiland Flashing option to pre-sensitize the paper just short of any visual effect prior to the main exposure.

Did I get that right? Is that essentially how the Heiland Splitgrade system works?

Regards,
Mike

 

[eddie]

Michael- There's no need for #2 and #4.The type of film doesn't matter. The paper grade is determined by the probe readings. As for #7, you move the probe around the image. For #5, the unit works like a normal timer and will shut off your safelight for focusing. Other than that, I think you have the system understood. It is pretty remarkable. I also use it with the 4550 XLG. If you'd like any info from the manual, let me know.

 

[Luis-F-S]

The LPL VCCE & Dichroic heads are great light sources. It's mindboggling to me that someone would want to replace them!

 

[RalphLambrecht]

Michael- There's no need for #2 and #4.The type of film doesn't matter. The paper grade is determined by the probe readings. As for #7, you move the probe around the image. For #5, the unit works like a normal timer and will shut off your safelight for focusing. Other than that, I think you have the system understood. It is pretty remarkable. I also use it with the 4550 XLG. If you'd like any info from the manual, let me know.

You got that essentially right; That is how it works!

 

[eddie]

The LPL VCCE & Dichroic heads are great light sources. It's mindboggling to me that someone would want to replace them!

The Splitgrade System is far more than a head. It's probably the most sophisticated B&W enlarging system made.

 

[Michael Firstlight]

The LPL VCCE & Dichroic heads are great light sources. It's mindboggling to me that someone would want to replace them!

Yes, they are. I did see the LED replacement head - pretty incredible too, but if I was going to choose one over the other I'd choose the Splitgrade controller and automated filter module that is just plug-and-play with the LPL 4x5 enlargers and retain the original light source.

Mike

 

[Michael Firstlight]

Michael- There's no need for #2 and #4.The type of film doesn't matter. The paper grade is determined by the probe readings. As for #7, you move the probe around the image. For #5, the unit works like a normal timer and will shut off your safelight for focusing. Other than that, I think you have the system understood. It is pretty remarkable. I also use it with the 4550 XLG. If you'd like any info from the manual, let me know.

Thank you for all that detail - seems pretty amazing. It was a little difficult to be certain by just watching the YouTube videos; most of them are in German and I could only partially understand. It's quite an inventive way to master dynamic range on the printing end of the process with such ease and efficiency.

Mike

 

[Renato Tonelli]

I just now realized that it is essentially the same sequence as for a Durst Multigraph.
The “advantages “ of these systems is that they get you going much faster than the multiple test strips.

 

[Michael Firstlight]

I just now realized that it is essentially the same sequence as for a Durst Multigraph.
The “advantages “ of these systems is that they get you going much faster than the multiple test strips.

Agreed. I've been doing test strips since I started in the darkroom 50 years ago....this would save a lot of time and be more flexible. I guess the only thing that would be better would be a connection to a computer/laptop where one could use a special dedicated image editor editor to diagram the additional dodging and burning with feathering and the unit made automatic masks in the enlarger head LOL. I once had visions of being able to scan negs, open them in an editor connected to the enlarger head... I bet if there was a large enough market they'd have invented something consumer grade like that by now, but alas...

Michael

 

[logan2z]

I just now realized that it is essentially the same sequence as for a Durst Multigraph.
The “advantages “ of these systems is that they get you going much faster than the multiple test strips.

Sounds pretty much identical to the process for using an RH Designs Analyzer Pro too, except that the Analyzer Pro gives you a single exposure/grade since it's not a split-grade system.

 

[NortheastPhotographic]

Sounds pretty much identical to the process for using an RH Designs Analyzer Pro too, except that the Analyzer Pro gives you a single exposure/grade since it's not a split-grade system.

I moved from the AP to the Splitgrade LED system. The AP does what it is supposed to do but it's far more clunky in practical application. Also paper calibrations are a huge chore vs the stock calibrations on the split grade system. I can see some people preferring the AP system because of the way it works, but for me the LED splitgrade is superior in nearly every way.

Nothing wrong with any system that works for you however! The Heiland set up is crazy expensive and I wouldn't blame anyone for sticking with test strips.

 

[NortheastPhotographic]

The LPL VCCE & Dichroic heads are great light sources. It's mindboggling to me that someone would want to replace them!

They are slick but the trichromatic LED panel that Heiland produces is superior in nearly every way. Once you go LED splitgrade, you don't go back.

 

[eddie]

Once you go LED splitgrade, you don't go back.

I also can't imagine living without mine.
I don't know what they sell for these days but, if you do a lot of printing and sell work, the paper savings may end up paying for the unit in a few years. With a sheet of 20x24 Multigrade going for $7-8 dollars, getting to a final print 3 or 4 sheets quicker will save at least $25.

 

[NortheastPhotographic]

I also can't imagine living without mine.
I don't know what they sell for these days but, if you do a lot of printing and sell work, the paper savings may end up paying for the unit in a few years. With a sheet of 20x24 Multigrade going for $7-8 dollars, getting to a final print 3 or 4 sheets quicker will save at least $25.

Not to mention the fact that most people probably throw out their fixer soaked, silver rich test strips. It's a waste of paper, bad for the environment. Even if you don't care about that, as you say, paper costs money. Time is also money. I have less and less of it these days for hours spent in the lab. Though I do miss those marathon print sessions to some nostalgic degree, I just don't have them in me anymore. Even when I find the time I get bored or frustrated some times. With the splitgrade system you get your value back pretty fast in time and eventually in money.

Plus the LED will basically never need replacement (in theory), and prints made today will not need adjustment a year from now all else being equal.

The 4x5 lights are every expensive, the 8x10 one is astronomical. But the 67, 66, 35 versions are approaching affordable.

 

[logan2z]

The AP does what it is supposed to do but it's far more clunky in practical application.

Can you elaborate? I've never found the AP clunky to use so I'm curious what about it you found clunky. At least according to other posts in this thread, it sounds like it is very similar in use to the Heiland.

Also paper calibrations are a huge chore vs the stock calibrations on the split grade system.

I do seem to recall you agonizing over calibration of the AP. I actually just started with the factory calibration and tweaked it from there as I made prints. If I meter properly, I can usually get a good starting print with the first sheet of paper, then I refine from there. It usually only takes 3-4 sheets total to end up with a final print (sometimes a few more with trickier negatives). There are calibrations for several popular papers listed on the RH Designs web site. You can also pay a small fee to have RH produce a calibration for your methods and paper.

The Heiland set up is crazy expensive.

That it is. If I were a professional printer I would certainly consider it, but as a hobbyist it's hard to justify. I did look into the LED light source for my Leitz Focomat v35 since the proper bulbs for that enlarger are nearly impossible to find, but the price was insanely high so I dropped that idea. I'm sure the Split Grade system is great based on everything I've read, but the price makes it a non-starter for me.

 

[NortheastPhotographic]

Can you elaborate? I've never found the AP clunky to use so I'm curious what about it you found clunky. At least according to other posts in this thread, it sounds like it is very similar in use to the Heiland

I do seem to recall you agonizing over calibration of the AP. I actually just started with the factory calibration and tweaked it from there as I made prints. If I meter properly, I can usually get a good starting print with the first sheet of paper, then I refine from there. It usually only takes 3-4 sheets total to end up with a final print (sometimes a few more with trickier negatives). There are calibrations for several popular papers listed on the RH Designs web site. You can also pay a small fee to have RH produce a calibration for your methods and paper.

That it is. If I were a professional printer I would certainly consider it, but as a hobbyist it's hard to justify. I did look into the LED light source for my Leitz Focomat v35 since the proper bulbs for that enlarger are nearly impossible to find, but the price was insanely high so I dropped that idea. I'm sure the Split Grade system is great based on everything I've read, but the price makes it a non-starter for me.

Yes, I had a really hard time. I think there were were two issues. I had already switched to the Heiland LED sans the splitgrade controller, so it essentially functioned as a VC or dichroic head. However it's soooo much brighter than any other light source that my AP had a hard time with it, and it took me forever to realize I needed about a 6 stop ND filter to get exposures of reasonable times at F8. I'm also not always super technically minded in certain ways so I just had trouble with the instructions. I really needed thorough demo videos or something similar.

Also, the tone placement is so important with the AP, where as with the Heiland the multi reading system is a bit smarter. You sort of wand it over the range of tones.

Lastly, this is subjective, but I've really come around to split grade printing as ideal for VC papers. I realize this is not true for every user, but for me I like that it's using the split grade approach as a starting point. I also got the flasher accessory and it's all just so seamless.

 

[Frank53]

This post is for someone that actually uses the Heiland Splitgrade with an automated head to answer. I'm contemplating one for my LPL 4550 XLG enlarger.

Do I understand correctly the following on how the process works…

1. Pick the paper type from the built-in profiles (other than a custom one
2. Specify the film type
3. Stop down the actual using aperture
4. Select the paper grade I want to start with
5. Turn all lights off
6. Press the button on the probe
7. Then, (pick one that's correct as I'm not clear about which is right):
   1. Take two separate readings - one from the lowest density area and a separate reading from the highest density area where I want detail, or
   2. Take a single reading moving the probe around the image across the high- and low-density areas.
8. Expose - and optionally burn/dodge locally during each of the two exposure phases
   
9. Develop – which should yield a decent initial print on first go, preserving (as best can) detail in the highlights and shadow areas by exposing twice automatically with different color filtration.
10. Afterwards, I can then choose to change paper grade and the unit will auto-adjust to the new exposure time while continuing to preserve (as best can) detail in the highlights and shadow areas.
11. Then if I want to increase say, increase or decrease density in the shadows but preserve the highlights where they are, I can go into Preferences settings and tell it to do exactly that.
12. And if I have even more troublesome images, could use the Heiland Flashing option to pre-sensitize the paper just short of any visual effect prior to the main exposure.

Did I get that right? Is that essentially how the Heiland Splitgrade system works?

Regards,
Mike

Hi,
I’ve been using the Heiland system in my LPL7452 now for a few years now and I’m very happy with it.
Your list is correct with a few remarks.
2. Only if the negative is color, c41 b/w or a staining developer has been used, so not for normal b/w negatives
4 not needed
5 the safelight is connected with the controller, so the light is switched off by the controller.
7 only 2 you scan the negative with the probe
10 you can also choose another paper if you like
Regards,
Frank