HD11 or XTOL film developer

[hatziteo]

Hello there,

in the town I live, the local shop offers 2 options: ilford ID11 or kodak xtol film developer. Im interested in sharp photos with very fine grain and usually use ilford panf 50, ilford hp4 125 or apx 100 film.
Which one should I prefer?
Also, how long would an ID11 stock solution (1+0) last in a plastic bottle (approx 20C)?
I am new to the forum, those questions have probably been answered before but Im kinda drowning into the "ocean of threads"

thanks

 

[markbarendt]

Either will work nicely, pick one and have fun.

I started with ID11 and moved on to Xtol.

Shoot two rolls in identical situations and have one done in each then have optical one print made from each roll at 11x14 or 16x20 and then decide.

 

[tkamiya]

ID-11 is basically a same thing as D-76 from Kodak. I went the other way around from markbarendt - I started with XTOL and eventually settled on D-76. I prefer the result from D-76 better but that's my personal preference. Using my standard method, D-76 SEEMS to produce gentler/less-punchy looking negatives than XTOL but I didn't do a scientific comparison test. I've been happy with what I get though. It seems more tolerant of processing variations as well.

Don't get caught up in grain size difference by these two... unless you are going to enlarge quite a bit and do a side-by-side comparison, you won't see enough difference that you'd actually notice.

You are going to hear a lot from both sides. Strongly for ID-11/D-76 and strongly for XTOL. It might end up in heated argument. (I've seen it happen here over and over on this topic) In the end, it's what you like. My vote is for ID-11/D-76. It's been around forever and this is what everybody compares their product to.

By the way, WELCOME TO APUG!

 

[steelydam]

can't go wrong either way

Both are excellent. I think if your big thing is the finest grain possible, XTOL is probably the way to go. My 5 x 7 prints from TMAX400 in XTOL 1:1 have extremely fine grain; if using Pan F or something like like the low speed Efke films I cannot fathom how undetectable grain would be on routine-sized prints.

 

[lns]

I use XTOL but ID-11 is fine too. Once mixed, XTOL should be stored in glass bottles for maximum shelf life (around 6 months). Perhaps ID-11 would be easier because you already have plastic bottles. If you go to the Ilford film website, you will find information about ID-11 that should include storage life.

-Laura

 

[Martin Aislabie]

Hello there,

in the town I live, the local shop offers 2 options: ilford ID11 or kodak xtol film developer. Im interested in sharp photos with very fine grain and usually use ilford panf 50, ilford hp4 125 or apx 100 film.
Which one should I prefer?
Also, how long would an ID11 stock solution (1+0) last in a plastic bottle (approx 20C)?
I am new to the forum, those questions have probably been answered before but Im kinda drowning into the "ocean of threads"

thanks

Both are excellent developers

My preference is ID11

One of the things I prefer ID11 to over XTOL is is slowly darkens as it gets older, so I can tell just be looking at it, whether I should be using it or pouring it down the sink.

XTOL probably has even better storage proteries but there is no visible way of determining its freshness.

ID11 stored neat (1+0) in an air tight bottle should last 6+ months

Exactly how long is impossible to know as there are too many variables

Martin

 

[markbarendt]

I use XTOL but ID-11 is fine too. Once mixed, XTOL should be stored in glass bottles for maximum shelf life (around 6 months). Perhaps ID-11 would be easier because you already have plastic bottles. If you go to the Ilford film website, you will find information about ID-11 that should include storage life.

-Laura

I actually store my Xtol stock in "wine boxes". The bladder is great for this purpose.

 

[jeffreyg]

Either should work well. I only use developer once. ID11 can be purchased as a powder to make 5 liters of stock solution for about $10. Get some amber or brown glass bottles form a pharmacist or scientific supplier that will hold the amount your developing tank(s) hold. Fill them to the top to omit air. They should store for a reasonable time. Date the bottles and you will learn from experience how well they keep in your environment.

http://www.jeffreyglasser.com/

 

[markbarendt]

One of the things I prefer ID11 to over XTOL is is slowly darkens as it gets older, so I can tell just be looking at it, whether I should be using it or pouring it down the sink.

hatziteo is using a lab so this isn't something that really needs to be worried about here.

I've also wondered why indicators are not used more. Indicator stop is real handy, it would be nice to have the same for fix and dead developer.

 

[topoxforddoc]

Once mixed, XTOL should be stored in glass bottles for maximum shelf life (around 6 months).

I keep XTOL stock solution in plastic bottles - 5L stock in five 1L plastic bottles. This keeps easily for 6 months in a cool dark place (ie your darkroom).

Charlie
www.charlie-chan.co.uk

 

[Sirius Glass]

I use replenished XTOL and when stored in tight bottles, I have gotten over two years out of XTOL. I like XTOL the best. Check out:

http://www.kodak.com/global/en/prof...wFilmProcessing/selecting.jhtml?pq-path=14053

 

[pentaxuser]

I recently moved from DDX to Xtol, having started on ID11. Things may be different in the U.S. but here in the U.K. Xtol is excellent value compared to DDX and probably similarly priced to ID11 BUT is way better grain-wise.

Easy to mix as well.

pentaxuser

 

[nworth]

I've been a fairly steady D-76 user for about 50 years now, with occasional excursions elsewhere. I'm used to it, and it seems to work well with everything. When I started, it was by far the best way to get fine grain and good definition - real issues then. According to Kodak, Xtol out performs D-76 in both these categories, but not by much. Xtol had some strange stability problems originally, but these seem to have been solved. I haven't tried it, but I believe the many reports that it is an excellent developer. A disadvantage is that it is a proprietary formula, while you can mix up D-76 yourself. Films have changed a lot since 1957, and the differences between developers seem to be less apparent in the prints now. But they do exist. Grain and sharpness are now mostly dependent on the film, and the films are excellent. My advice: try both and use whichever you are most comfortable with.

 

[hatziteo]

thank you all for your answers, wish you a happy new year

 

[hpulley]

Xtol and HC-110 seem to be about the same economy around here, both end up at about $10 for 5L of stock (dilution A for HC) or 10L of 1:1 (dilution B for HC). With Xtol you have to mix up the whole 5L and use it up in 6 months while HC-110 can be kept as a syrup which lasts much longer. 5L seems like a lot but if you use it stock then its just 10 120 rolls or 16-20 35mm rolls, double that for 1+1 usage. I see references to 1L packets of Xtol but can't find any locally or online though I haven't looked that hard really.

1+1 Xtol is not quite the same as stock for the chart someone posted from Kodak above. It's too bad they didn't include Xtol 1+1 and HC-110 dilution A in that chart as Xtol is grainier at 1+1 than used stock.

 

[Anon Ymous]

... I see references to 1L packets of Xtol but can't find any locally or online though I haven't looked that hard really.

1l Xtol packages have been discontinued long ago.

 

[hpulley]

1l Xtol packages have been discontinued long ago.

True but so were 600mL packets of Microphen and yet I can still find them locally...