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HC110 made simple.

Overview Discussion
Stone, the reason northern areas bury the lines so deep is to be below the frost line. That way, the pipes won't freeze in the winter. Water being cool is a pleasant side-effect for us, as the purpose has nothing to do with keeping water cool.

Areas without these concerns are not so worried about how deep the pipes are buried (and temperatures below the earth are higher as well). Tall buildings are yet another situation - the water is typically kept in storage tanks on top of the buildings, and that doesn't help keep it cool. Before you ask, yes, there are ways a building complex can keep the tank from freezing in the winter. These are not practical for a single-family home.
 
When I lived in Topeka Kansas, on the Kansas River bottom, water was 55 year round. Now that I live in the Ozarks water is over 80 in the heat of summer. Lots of rock, little dirt here. Need to get out of New England once in a while to see real rock

Mike
 
bdial said:
At the risk of answering for Roger, it's probably because the cold water out of the tap is that warm. AC doesn't help much with that.
When I lived in the desert our cold water was as warm as bath water in the summer.
Click to expand...

Yep. "Cold" water in the summer comes out of the tap at around 80F, sometimes a bit more. The darkroom is downstairs where there is, in fact, no AC but it isn't really needed. The house is on a side hill so the darkroom area is underground and the room temperature is rarely more than 75-77. I'm totally comfortable with that personally.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Not several rocks. Large, lot size pieces of rock that would require blasting to put pipes through them.
 
A friend of mine in Texas says that in the Summer, he hooks up his well to the hot water pipes, turns off the gas to his water heater, and hooks it up to the cold water pipes. The water heater's inside his air-conditioned farmhouse.

Ever been to Texas, Stone?

Charley
 

Yea, I bought a car there and drove it to CT.... Still have it... A Datsun280zx
 
has anyone tried Delta 100 @100 with this dilution? 8 minutes? 9 minutes? I have no idea about the Delta emulsions as I normally use Acros 100. thanks.
 
From the North American concentrate, I use a syringe (without the metal needle) to suck up 15ml of hc110. I squirt it into 1500ml of water, @ 20C, in my Patterson tank. It takes 5 rolls of 35mm or 3 rolls of 120 film. 1 minute initial agitation, then 1 minute agitation after 20 minutes, dump after 40 minutes. Easy-peasy!

I'll suck up water/developer into the syringe to rinse it out into the developing tank to get it all.
 
thanks Frank, but I am hoping to find a time for this 1+49 dilution for Delta 100. I suppose I could just try 8 minutes and see what happens? Delta 100 is now cheaper than Acros 100 (seems like just yesterday Acros was $3 and change) so thinking of making the switch, though it'll be a bit more of a pain for long exposures.
 

Sorry, I was responding to this thread in general, not your post in particular.
 

Huh? 1500ml in a 1L tank? Confused...
 
Are you sure? Doesn't a single roll of 35mm film need 290ml to cover it?
 
StoneNYC said:
My Patterson 5 reel tank is 1L
Click to expand...

Stone:

The Paterson 3 x 35mm roll/2 x 120 roll tank holds 1 litre.

I'm quite sure that the Paterson 5 x 35mm roll/3 x 120 roll tank holds considerably more.
 
Right. And I am talking about my 1500ml Patterson tank: 3 reels of 120, or 5 reels of 35mm.

Glad we got that straightened out.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Maybe this attachment will help someone.

Simple .xls format.
Excel will open the file just fine as well as other spreadsheet programs (e.g. OpenOffice)
Fill in your desired result in milliliters in cell F1.
Read the needed amount of concentrate by Letter or by dilution ratio.

The first area is rounded to no decimals to agree with the Kodak data sheet.

A second area shows a table of common amounts of developer: 240, 270, 300, 480, 600 and 1000ml.
The results of that table are to one decimal of precision.
The third area shows the results rounded to no decimals.

But wait, that not all as they say. Any of the numbers that feed the tables can be changed for your needs.
The last post of this thread had a tank that needed 1500 ml. Change cell R3 (or R14) to 1500 and use the resulting numbers.
 

Attachments

  • HC110 Dilutions.xls
    33 KB · Views: 330
Arista EDU ultra 100=Foma pan 100 (made in Czech Republic 2015) is that the same-re this 2013 post?
 
Robert Dungan on Flickr tags his photos that way. I don't know if he is on APUG.
 
Arista EDU-Ultra 100 @ 100 - 6.5 min should work for Foma pan 100 based on Robert's tags on Flickr. He is just starting to use HC110 generic from Freestyle.
 
If I wanted to see less/finer grain, and still use HC-110, how could I do that? Different dilution? More or less agitation?

Thanks
 
What film are you using? So far I use HP5+ and dilution B for my 4x5s. Happy with the results.
 
rwl7532 said:
What film are you using? So far I use HP5+ and dilution B for my 4x5s. Happy with the results.
Click to expand...

So far, I've been using it for everything at 1:49--Tri-X & HP5 in 35mm and 120, FP4 in 35mm, Acros 100 in 120. I was just wondering about how to get a little less grain, especially when I'm shooting on my Pen FT half-frame where the negs get enlarged more.
 
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