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HC-110 vs. D-76 question

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MattKing

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Matt, how do you keep it away from moisture, other than simply keeping it in a bottle? I have always assumed (as have many others) that smaller bottles, with very little airspace, are ideal. Is this just more photographic folklore?

Followup question for everyone, perhaps based on more folklore. I inherited several older bottles of HC-110 and the colour is more reddish than yellow. I have heard that this is still good but I have not done any tests. Have any of you used HC-110 when it is in this somewhat reddish condition?

I agree with Richard above. I have used it from a half filled, way past expiry date Kodak bottle when it is as dark as really strong tea, and it has performed like new.

There is a certain amount of water in the air above the fluid in a bottle of HC110. Some of it will be absorbed. I expect that once that water has been absorbed, no further amount will be, unless you add more water to that air. Repeated handling might result in that, but it isn't immediately clear whether there is any net improvement when you compare the handling involved in decanting vs. the handling involved when not decanting.

It is clear to me, though, that you waste more developer when you decant, because it is difficult to impossible to get all of the syrup out of each bottle.

It seems to me that HC110 either reaches an equilibrium with the water in the air above it when you leave it in a bottle, or only deteriorates due to that water at a very, very, very slow rate. I'm not sure that is the case for developers that oxidize due to contact with air.
 

MattKing

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Another follow-up question. When CAN you tell that HC-110 is past its prime?

If it will still flow, it seems to work fine.
 

Gerald C Koch

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Another follow-up question. When CAN you tell that HC-110 is past its prime?

It applies for Social Security. :smile:

Seriously you can always do a snip test with the dilution you use. But realistically HC-110 lasts practically forever and people use it to the very end of a bottle. I have used HC-110 that is years old. As for a visual clue I suppose it changing to a very, VERY, VERY dark brown color.
 
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tokam

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Another follow-up question. When CAN you tell that HC-110 is past its prime?

I have two bottles of HC-110.

The first bottle is about 30% used and has an expiry date in 2010. I top off with Protectan after each opening and the developer is now a light honey colour. Plenty of life in it.

The second bottle is unopened with an expiry date in 2014. Developer is still light straw colour and I expect to be using it for the next 10 years.
 

Richard S. (rich815)

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Ive never had a bottle of Rodinal or HC-110 go bad on me. Even when the Rodinal went inky black and the HC-110 a deep rich thick goopy red.
 

Doc W

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Forgot about this: see the video I made here: https://vimeo.com/122279997

Richard, that is without doubt the FUGliest photographic goop I have ever seen. I swear I saw lumps. You say there were none, but I am suspicious.

Anyway, thanks for the vid. If that unholy fluid actually developed film, then I will no longer worry about the freshness of my HC-110.
 

Roger Cole

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D-76 LONG storage:
After preparing 1g stock solution I dispense it into 8oz plastic juice bottles, 8oz per each.
I squeeze each bottle to remove air, cover the bottle with Stretch-Tite and screw back its original cup.
Then all the bottles go to my garage freezer (0F) for long, long storage (years? my record is 12 months so far).
When I need one, I put such frozen and milky white bottle to a sink filled with hot water.
When the bottle thaws you can see small white flakes (metol?).
I drain cooled water from the sink and fill it with hot water again.
The flakes dissolve at about 110 or 120F and you should have a perfectly clear stock solution.
I dilute the solution with another 8oz of distilled water ($0.89/gallon at Target) to get 1:1 solution, cool it down to 68F and get it done.

As cheap as it is, this is way too much trouble. Just keep some powder on hand and mix new.
 

bruniroquai

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I just discover HC-110 Dilution H and I'm really happy with the results, still I'm missing something from D76... could be more shadows details and less grain?
 

Cholentpot

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To resurrect an old thread...ahhhhhhh

I started with D-76 and moved on to a few other. Tmax Dev, Rodinal, Caffenol-C, HC-110, but today after a few years I mixed up a bag of D-76 and developed some Tmax 100 in stock solution. I missed having deep contrast and I felt I was not getting it from other developers. I though HC-110 gave me sorta flat negative. No problem with Tmax Dev as such but it is expensive.

So, back to the old standby for me.
 

RalphLambrecht

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I am shooting more film than I have in the past, but I still find myself throwing away some of my mixed developer before I am able to use it.

Currently I use D-76, but was thinking about switching to HC-110 for the shelf life quality of the concentrate "syrup" and the advantages of one shot mixing whenever I would need it.

For those that have used HC-110, I was wondering if you could tell me your thoughts on this developer? Dilutions that you are happy with, comparisons to D-76 in developing etc.

I shoot mostly Tri-x and Arista EDU ultra 200 (Fomapan 200) a film which I really enjoy.

Thanks!
steve
essentially the same results with both butI prefer D76 because, I cN mixed fresh from bulk chemicals.I usually try to mix a high concentration as stock and dilute it down to a working solution when I need it.
 
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