HC-110 Foamy?

[RattyMouse]

My last few runs with HC-110 showed a significant amount of foam once I opened up the tank to pour out the developer. I'm curious to know if that's normal. Any other users report seeing foam after all your agitation? This is with just dilution B in the tank and nothing else (aside from film; HP5).

I wash my Patersen tanks until the rinse water does not foam at all so I'm pretty sure that there is no soap residue left over from the cleaning stage of the last development run.

Thanks!

 

[erikg]

Films such as HP-5 have incorporated surfactants, probably to aid in more even development. That is probably what you are seeing. I've seen a bit of that as well.

 

[wildbill]

try the search function before you start a new thread because this has been explained already.
(there was a url link here which no longer exists)
or google: https://www.google.com/search?q=hc-...la:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&channel=sb

 

[darkosaric]

Yes, I get this as well. With APH09 a little, HC110 more. So I would say it is normal, I never noticed any influence on development.

 

[RattyMouse]

Films such as HP-5 have incorporated surfactants, probably to aid in more even development. That is probably what you are seeing. I've seen a bit of that as well.

Ah, that must be it. I dont recall seeing foam when I ran Delta 3200 through HC-110. Thanks!

 

[Vaughn]

try the search function before you start a new thread because this has been explained already.
(there was a url link here which no longer exists)
or google: https://www.google.com/search?q=hc-...la:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&channel=sb

But please note that by asking this question afresh, a totally different set of answers are emerging than were offered four years ago in the thread you linked to.

 

[erikg]

Right. The photo-flo theory is good except for those who don't use it. You could try this experiment: place the empty reels in the tank and fill with water, agitate and then check for foaming, if so wetting agent in tank and reels is likely fault. If not mix some HC110 and repeat the test using the developer instead of water. If yes then it's likely the HC110. If no then try with a roll of film in the tank, develop as normal, no presoak. If yes the film is the likely source.
Nothing to be concerned about in that case.

 

[MattKing]

I'b be willing to bet that all developers will exhibit foam if agitation is vigorous and there is at least some space above the fluid in the tank.

As long as there is enough fluid in the tank, it probably doesn't matter.

Although if a developer is particularly susceptible to oxidation, it would probably be wise to temper the activity of the agitation.

 

[Gerald C Koch]

Photo-Flo contains an anti-foaming agent.

 

[Thomas Bertilsson]

The question that you really want to ask is: Does it matter that you get foam in the tank?

I have seen plenty of negatives where air bubbles prevent fresh developer from reaching the film, leaving portions of the negative less developed than other areas. This is usually around the edges of the film where it gets stuck between the reel and two 'walls' of film.

If you rap your tank firmly on the counter top before you set the tank to rest between agitation cycles, you will not have any problems from this foaming.

The foaming is one of those things that people get puzzled about, and ask questions, without really thinking whether it matters or not. Kind of like the pink stain of some films doesn't affect printing in a way that can actually be quantified, but people still feel like there's a great need to get rid of it.

Process your film and look at the negatives. If the negatives are good - what difference does it make that the developer foams?

 

[erikg]

Photo-Flo contains an anti-foaming agent.

It still foams. A lot.

 

[erikg]

The question that you really want to ask is: Does it matter that you get foam in the tank?

I have seen plenty of negatives where air bubbles prevent fresh developer from reaching the film, leaving portions of the negative less developed than other areas. This is usually around the edges of the film where it gets stuck between the reel and two 'walls' of film.

If you rap your tank firmly on the counter top before you set the tank to rest between agitation cycles, you will not have any problems from this foaming.

The foaming is one of those things that people get puzzled about, and ask questions, without really thinking whether it matters or not. Kind of like the pink stain of some films doesn't affect printing in a way that can actually be quantified, but people still feel like there's a great need to get rid of it.

Process your film and look at the negatives. If the negatives are good - what difference does it make that the developer foams?

Nothing wrong with being curious. Nobody said anything about it being a problem.

 

[RattyMouse]

Nothing wrong with being curious. Nobody said anything about it being a problem.

I've spent, sadly, the bulk of my 20 year career fighting foam in emulsion chemistry. I find foam to be a fascinating subject for sure.

 

[Gerald C Koch]

It still foams. A lot.

Kodak's recommendation is for far more Photo-Flo than is needed. You only need just enough to break down the surface tension of the water. This amounts to 2-3 drops per 250 ml of solution. Much less foaming at this concentration.

 

[George Collier]

I've had foam pour out with HC110 with Ilford films, but not Kodak Tri-x, and Photo flo never touches my developing gear. Doesn't seem to be a problem, though.