Hazy lens
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- Thread starter FrederikTheisen
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Unless auto exposure and color correction are turned off in the scanner software prior to scan the scan will not tell the true condition of the negative. Negafix should be set to the correct film type in the scan software if available. Only scans made under these settings, unedited, posted, can be effectively evaluated after testing in post processing software for adjustment latitude.
A blown highlight will not be correctable in post processing software nor will an under exposure be correctable in post. A soft contrast may loose detail when correcting. An exposure within 1 stop of correct exposure and normal contrast will have a lot of correction latitude without loss of detail.
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Although both images have a pretty interesting look, the flare is absolutely obvious and shouldn't be there.
The mirror and groundglass can be cleaned very easily. The groundglass assembly is removed by pushing on one side the whole "MAMIYA RB67" badge, and then lifting the focusing hood. After having removed the groundglass frame, you will have access from the top to the mirror in "exposed" rest position.
The mirror and groundglass can be cleaned very easily. The groundglass assembly is removed by pushing on one side the whole "MAMIYA RB67" badge, and then lifting the focusing hood. After having removed the groundglass frame, you will have access from the top to the mirror in "exposed" rest position.
OP
OP
So the question remains: is the camera body/back/WLF/strap worth 370 USD (including 31 % import tax, 30 USD import fee and shipping) compared to returning the whole thing (not only the lens) and buying a new camera.
Something like this would end up at 600 USD all inclusive.
http://r.ebay.com/kKo7g7
The images were just to show the haze. I usually scan a 'raw' file and use gimp to basically auto levels and invert the colors, then color balance and contrast edits. Reduce size to half and sharpen.
The haze on the mirror does rub off, but it's slow work.
Something like this would end up at 600 USD all inclusive.
http://r.ebay.com/kKo7g7
The images were just to show the haze. I usually scan a 'raw' file and use gimp to basically auto levels and invert the colors, then color balance and contrast edits. Reduce size to half and sharpen.
The haze on the mirror does rub off, but it's slow work.
just keep in mind, the cheaper the price, means you should include the cost of an overhaul cla and further dissappointment. generally cameras in poor shape get less money in classifieds. they most likely need seals, backs are ready to be cleaning n adjusted, shutters speeds will be ify and require clas. lens haze n scratches, fungus, most likely cameras either stored for long periods or a diy that just wants to dump what he cant fix anymore.
if what you have is producing such nice photos, hang on to it. if you are sooooo particular, then buy a new(er) camera in excelent condition from someplace like keh... but that will double the price. buy on fleabay, you get cracker jax prizes.
lenses can be replaced, but is this one good enough for its price and what its being used for? remember, that lens once sold for almost $1000 new. its now over 30 years old. $350 for a kit is a bargain for a working camera once worth in the thousands.
are you shooting professionally for commercial work or a hobbiest?...
so worth... you have to decide the cost of worth for how you use it.
but this is only my opinion. you know what they say about opinions.
if what you have is producing such nice photos, hang on to it. if you are sooooo particular, then buy a new(er) camera in excelent condition from someplace like keh... but that will double the price. buy on fleabay, you get cracker jax prizes.
lenses can be replaced, but is this one good enough for its price and what its being used for? remember, that lens once sold for almost $1000 new. its now over 30 years old. $350 for a kit is a bargain for a working camera once worth in the thousands.
are you shooting professionally for commercial work or a hobbiest?...
so worth... you have to decide the cost of worth for how you use it.
but this is only my opinion. you know what they say about opinions.
It's been a long time since I bought any previously owned equipment but the lenses fortunately turned out to be excellent and as represented. I only bought from reputable dealers with full refund return policies. I immediately tested the lenses and all worked out well. If the lens you purchased was misrepresented and a full refund is not being offered perhaps the seller will replace the lens with one of a different focal length that is in excellent condition. You might then be able to sell or trade for what your needs are. If it is not of equal value he can add some accessories.
http://www.jeffreyglasser.com/
http://www.jeffreyglasser.com/
send it back... it'll always be a "suspect" lens.
unless you get 100% refund, or a satisfactory replacement, you should definitely leave negative feedback since he misrepresented the lens and didn't resolve it to your satisfaction. contact the bay.
good luck.
unless you get 100% refund, or a satisfactory replacement, you should definitely leave negative feedback since he misrepresented the lens and didn't resolve it to your satisfaction. contact the bay.
good luck.
OP
OP
I'm going to accept the 100 USD offer and then buy a new lens when a suitable one appears. I'll just have to accept the loss, it's not like I'm getting ruined.
I'll then sell the hazy lens as it is. Or rent it out for people to try. Or whatever.
If I can get around 100 USD for it, then I'll in a good spot to buy a new KL, otherwise I may go with a C.
I'll then sell the hazy lens as it is. Or rent it out for people to try. Or whatever.
If I can get around 100 USD for it, then I'll in a good spot to buy a new KL, otherwise I may go with a C.
RB lenses are really pretty easy to get into, to some depth depending on the lens. Rubber "Fermco" pipe adapter to get the name-ring off, spanner wrench. Sometimes a rubber glove to unscrew the front group. Rear element is usually a retaining ring. Whenever I add a used one, I open it up, blow the dust out, etc. I got a 65 and a 127 for $110 because the 127 had a spot of fungus - they were both in mint shape other than that, beautiful lenses. In 10 minutes I had the fungus out. and I'm in no way an advanced repairs kinda guy. what do you have to lose at this point? All you need is a spanner wrench - the Amazon cheapies are just fine for occasional use.
On the other hand, save that lens as-is for shooting B&W nudes - that's sort of a nice pretty diffusion!
On the other hand, save that lens as-is for shooting B&W nudes - that's sort of a nice pretty diffusion!
Download a copy of the Pro S service manual here: Dead Link Removed
Very minor differences between the Pro S and SD, lens are covered beginning on pdf page 62.
Easy to disassemble, clean, reassemble.
Very minor differences between the Pro S and SD, lens are covered beginning on pdf page 62.
Easy to disassemble, clean, reassemble.
OP
OP
I took a look at the manual, but there is really limited information on how to disassemble the lens. I'm not interested in disassembling the body so I'm not sure if that manual is of any use.
the rear cell unscrews by using a straight edge across the notches.
the front cell will unscrew if you remove that name ring using a rubber plug of about the same sice as the ring. i use a plumbing test plug to do that.
once the name ring is off, you will see the front cell inside. most times i can unscrew it using my finger tips on the sides, sometimes it takes a spanner of some sort to get down along the sides.
once the cells are out, clean the 2 surfaces with denatured alcohol and a new microfiber cloth.
need further help, just message me.
o
the front cell will unscrew if you remove that name ring using a rubber plug of about the same sice as the ring. i use a plumbing test plug to do that.
once the name ring is off, you will see the front cell inside. most times i can unscrew it using my finger tips on the sides, sometimes it takes a spanner of some sort to get down along the sides.
once the cells are out, clean the 2 surfaces with denatured alcohol and a new microfiber cloth.
need further help, just message me.
o
OP
OP
All righty, thank you 
I'll look into it at some point. Do you recommend before or after acquiring a new lens?
I'll look into it at some point. Do you recommend before or after acquiring a new lens?
The rear cell comes out in 2 minutes... why not give it a try right now? The front cell may take a bit longer so hold off for now. At least you can see your haze, it may come off very easily and problem solved. If you open the aperture and peek insude through the shutter you will see the back of the front cell. DONT TRY TO CLEAN IT THROUGH THE SHUTTER. Just take a look to see if haze is a problem there as well?
Ill try to get a few pics for ya later.
Ill try to get a few pics for ya later.
OP
OP
Got exam in 20 minutes so not right now...
OP
OP
I've removed the rear element with a pipe tool, but it appears that the haze is somewhere inside the rear element. Is it possible to open the rear element?
https://rb67.helluin.org/lenses/127mmf3-8/ shows the lens diagram, the rear is a cemented pair. The pair can be separated when heated to 450°F/232°C BUT the cell alignment must be marked so that they can be reassembled in the exact same position.
I do not know what type optical cement they used on the lens cells, Canadian Balsam and UV cure are the two most common.
I had a Goertz Dagor from the 1940's that was very cloudy, it was cemented with balsam. I unsuccessfully tried to separate it by placing the cell in boiling water (after it was removed from the heat source) and placing it in an oven heated to 250°F/121°C.
After several attempts at the water bath and warmed oven did not loosen it I put it back together and sat it aside, when I took it out a few months later it was perfectly clear.
Heat and patience may clear it but you want to use it yesterday, today, and tomorrow.
I do not know what type optical cement they used on the lens cells, Canadian Balsam and UV cure are the two most common.
I had a Goertz Dagor from the 1940's that was very cloudy, it was cemented with balsam. I unsuccessfully tried to separate it by placing the cell in boiling water (after it was removed from the heat source) and placing it in an oven heated to 250°F/121°C.
After several attempts at the water bath and warmed oven did not loosen it I put it back together and sat it aside, when I took it out a few months later it was perfectly clear.
Heat and patience may clear it but you want to use it yesterday, today, and tomorrow.
As anticipated, most of the times when there is "haze" that looks cleanable with a tissue, it is something worst instead. Been there.
Go for a "C" 127mm, you should be able to find a decent one for 100$. It's a terrific lens. While some people pretend that there is some difference between the "C" and "KL" 90mm (the "C" is accused by some to have a slight barrel distortion; I have owned a 90mm for some years before changing it with a 127mm and I don't agree, however that's what someone says), in my opinion the "C" and "KL" 127mm are identical. Actually, the shutter in the "C" has more metal parts instead of the plastic components of the "KL".
Go for a "C" 127mm, you should be able to find a decent one for 100$. It's a terrific lens. While some people pretend that there is some difference between the "C" and "KL" 90mm (the "C" is accused by some to have a slight barrel distortion; I have owned a 90mm for some years before changing it with a 127mm and I don't agree, however that's what someone says), in my opinion the "C" and "KL" 127mm are identical. Actually, the shutter in the "C" has more metal parts instead of the plastic components of the "KL".
OP
OP
So, I ignored your advice to go for the C, but heeded the advice to buy from KEH.
I just checked their site, not expecting to find anything worth shipping to EU from US, but they had a 'like new minus' 127mm KL for 150 USD which I thought was a pretty decent buy considering the shipping and import fee is the same for a KL and a C. So here goes nothing, let's hope the 2nd try is succesful.
I just checked their site, not expecting to find anything worth shipping to EU from US, but they had a 'like new minus' 127mm KL for 150 USD which I thought was a pretty decent buy considering the shipping and import fee is the same for a KL and a C. So here goes nothing, let's hope the 2nd try is succesful.
KEH is my go to place to buy cameras and lenses. It has been for years.
That's a very good price, enjoy your new camera and lens!
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