Have taken the Home Mat Board Cutting Plunge

[Graeme Hird]

It seems Clayton's advice was very persuasive - my wife read his post over my shoulder and is keen to search out a used pro mat cutter. We found one advertised in Perth - a C&H Advantage Pro 48 for AUD$850. Looks like one of us might be doing a 1200km round trip next week!

Still looking, but a pro mat cutter might just find its way to Kalgoorlie.

 

[David H. Bebbington]

I'm almost ashamed to say it, but I use a Logan Model 2000 mat cutter which is a simple metal rectangle 10x5.7 cm with a spring-loaded blade holder set at 45°. This was the cheapest of all options and cost about $40. I use this in conjunction with a 50 cm plastic ruler which has rubber strips set into the underside (very important to avoid slipping) and a relatively hard cutting mat measuring 45x60 cm. I use a heavy-gauge rotary trimmer to cut the outside edges of the mats. I am surprised that others get through so many blades, I check the blade after every cut to make sure the tip has not worn away but find I can cut up to 20 mats with 30x40 cm aperture (80 cuts) with each end of a blade. I found the two tricks to learn were firstly keeping the ruler from slipping (easy with the kind of ruler described above) and secondly going just fractionally beyond the marked line with each cut so that the cut-out drops neatly out of the mat. Using this simple equipment, I find I can cut ten or twelve mats in less than an hour.

 

[Jim Chinn]

If you use the same size mats for your prints then it is much more convienent to cut your own. You can set aside some time and cut several at once and have them ready to go when you need them. Just eliminating one more trip in the car to a frame shop was worth getting one.

 

[claytume]

It seems Clayton's advice was very persuasive - my wife read his post over my shoulder and is keen to search out a used pro mat cutter. We found one advertised in Perth - a C&H Advantage Pro 48 for AUD$850. Looks like one of us might be doing a 1200km round trip next week!

Still looking, but a pro mat cutter might just find its way to Kalgoorlie.

Graeme

I was going to mention that even though I live near a large city all my gear came from Auckland which is 600km away. Sure there was higher shipping costs involved but also a lot of used gear on the market there.

When I started out I had a local framer do my framing, he made all the money from my work....not any more!

That's a good deal on the C&H, I don't think you'd find one cheaper.

Clayton

 

[Graeme Hird]

I still have a local framer doing my frames - as you say, he's doing very well, thank you very much. He was desperately trying to sell his business before we opened our gallery, but now he's not so keen. I wonder why? I also wonder if he has a fall-back option in the event of us taking our business away?

 

[Sean]

Ok, well after alllll this time I have finally setup my Logan650 today to start cutting mats. This machine looked insanely intimidating but walking through the steps it has gelled rather easily for me, and I just made a perfect overmat with a piece of scrap board. It was so easy I almost couldn't believe it! I love this tool! very pleased

 

[Mongo]

It was so easy I almost couldn't believe it!

That's exactly how I feel every time I use mine. I always worry that I'll have forgotten how to cut a good overmat, and every one turns out just fine.

 

[Paul Sorensen]

I wanted to get a decent mat cutter for the darkroom, but finances were a bit tight and, lo and behold, someone donated one of the small Logans that sells for $100. I have really come to like it. The biggest problem that I have is that others don't want to read the directions like I did and so I end up training everyone!

The 650 would be really nice, since it has stops and a facility for squaring the board for outside cuts. Those are the two items lacking in ours.

Have fun!

Paul.

 

[Sean]

ok maybe I spoke too soon, some of my longer window cuts are not straight. It looks like the 6inches or so side cuts are straight but anything over 7.5inches is sort of bowed out looking. Anyone want to give me some advice before I waste more board? I have trying different pulling methods and fresh underboard.. hmmm..

 

[Sean]

Maybe I need to put pressure on the bar that holds the board in place?

 

[Jorge]

ok maybe I spoke too soon, some of my longer window cuts are not straight. It looks like the 6inches or so side cuts are straight but anything over 7.5inches is sort of bowed out looking. Anyone want to give me some advice before I waste more board? I have trying different pulling methods and fresh underboard.. hmmm..

Ahh....one of those huh? It helps if you read the manual..

If you are getting a "hook" at the corners, there are two possibilities, your blade is not deep enough or it is too tight against the sliding support. To set the blade deeper, turn the top screw counter clock wise. To separate the blade from the sliding support there is a little screw on the base that you press down, turn it CCW too.

You should have the blade deep enough so that it slightly scores you support mat, and it should be just right against the sliding support or the blade gets pushed out and results in the "hook". I had the same problems and had to fiddle with the depth and "press" until I got it right.

 

[Baxter Bradford]

In addition to Jorge's advice.
I have had the odd one which I struggled with, like you thinking it must be the way I pulled the cutter. I was advised to get my shoulder in line with the cut and to ensure I pulled exactly along the line of cut.

First check blade retaining screw is tight. Then try changing the blade, some seem not to be ground as precisely and tend to wander.

 

[Sean]

Ok, things are going better, I have tried to keep more of a consistent pressure and make the cut quickly..

 

[glbeas]

Ok, well after alllll this time I have finally setup my Logan650 today to start cutting mats. This machine looked insanely intimidating but walking through the steps it has gelled rather easily for me, and I just made a perfect overmat with a piece of scrap board. It was so easy I almost couldn't believe it! I love this tool! very pleased

Oh yeah! Mines a dream to use. You need to be sure the squaring guide is really square, it can be adjusted. I do my cuts from the end drawing towards me. That keeps the pressure even during the cut. Be sure the scrap board under your good mat you are cutting is thick enough to get a good bite with the pressure and that the blade is plunging the right depth. I usually use the mat board I plan to mount the print on as the bottom piece for cutting the mat and turn it with the upper mat as I cut. The scores resulting from this provides a guide to centering the print during mounting. As always measure twice cut once!

 

[Sean]

Ahh....one of those huh? It helps if you read the manual..

If you are getting a "hook" at the corners, there are two possibilities, your blade is not deep enough or it is too tight against the sliding support. To set the blade deeper, turn the top screw counter clock wise. To separate the blade from the sliding support there is a little screw on the base that you press down, turn it CCW too.

You should have the blade deep enough so that it slightly scores you support mat, and it should be just right against the sliding support or the blade gets pushed out and results in the "hook". I had the same problems and had to fiddle with the depth and "press" until I got it right.

definitely getting that slight 'hook' at the corners. I'll try adjusting the blade, thanks!

 

[Bob F.]

One other thing is to not try and make the cut in one go - take 2 or 3 cuts to make it all the way through the mount board. I have a cheaper cutter and find that trying to cut in one swipe causes problems: probably because the blade flexes under the pressure.

Cheers, Bob.