Hate 4x5 Souping in Combiplan Tank

[Trond]

get yourself a Jobo 2521 tank with 2905N reel. Beats the combiplan in every way.

I agree, I have both, and the Jobo tank doesn't leak and it fills and empties much quicker than the Compiplan.

 

[Jon Shiu]

If the mess problem is just with draining the thing, just drain it into a plastic pitcher, and use that to pour the chem into the jug later.

Also, I wear rubber gloves when using the tank, because it drips a little, and because it is difficult to properly tighten the valves with wet hands.

Jon

 

[Ken Nadvornick]

Chris,

Have you considered one of the out-of-production Nikor stainless steel sheet film tanks? Just like the 35mm and 120 versions, except larger with a spiral cage for cut film up to 4x5 instead of spiral reels for roll film. Requires a little over a liter of solution and can process up to 12 sheets, providing the developer dilution at that volume supports that quantity.

This daylight tank is small enough to be held and inverted in one hand and it leaks no more than the smaller format stainless tanks when they are similarly inverted - meaning only a few drops. Stainless is also nice for temperature control in a water bath.

David Goldfarb has posted frequently in the past about this tank, including at one point the instructions for its use. It's usually an eBay item, which is where I purchased mine. It was pricey, but my copy was essentially brand new, and as a once-only lifetime purchase I consider it worth every penny.

Ken

 

[Christopher Walrath]

I had considered it I the past and may well give the S/S spiral tank a go in the spring when funds allow it.

As to the space and the mess, you would really have to SEE what I work with to get it. The last thing I need would be a litre of chemistry ending up all over the floor that my family would have to walk on. And it would be quite conceiveable to have that happen. I like the pitcher idea. But that would mean pitchers on the floor and bending over to drain, bad on an already taxed back.

I appreciate the ideas all. But I think tanks are best for now.

 

[fotch]

Chris,

Have you considered one of the out-of-production Nikor stainless steel sheet film tanks? Just like the 35mm and 120 versions, except larger with a spiral cage for cut film up to 4x5 instead of spiral reels for roll film. Requires a little over a liter of solution and can process up to 12 sheets, providing the developer dilution at that volume supports that quantity.

This daylight tank is small enough to be held and inverted in one hand and it leaks no more than the smaller format stainless tanks when they are similarly inverted - meaning only a few drops. Stainless is also nice for temperature control in a water bath.

David Goldfarb has posted frequently in the past about this tank, including at one point the instructions for its use. It's usually an eBay item, which is where I purchased mine. It was pricey, but my copy was essentially brand new, and as a once-only lifetime purchase I consider it worth every penny.

Ken

These run $250 or more, don't they?

 

[Ken Nadvornick]

These run $250 or more, don't they?

I paid around US$185 for mine, if memory serves. That was about three years ago.

It came with the original retaining band, often missing. The usual advice is to substitute a rubber band, which I've read works quite well. And as mentioned it appeared to be as new with no signs of use, although the listing did specify "Used."

Now and then I'll still search for "Nikor 4x5 tank" just from curiosity. They seem to have become more rare recently. So I wouldn't be surprised if someone who really wanted one might bite at US$250.

But again, I considered it a one-time purchase to be used for the rest of my life. When I look at it in that (hopefully) long time-line context it doesn't seem overly expensive to me. Now if I had to buy a replacement every six months...

By that same logic I'm still happily using today the original Nikon F2 I purchased new in the early 70s.

Ken

 

[PhotoBob]

Hi Chris,
I been using the combiplan tanks since beginning large format photography. It works so well for me and clean and neat that I bought another one.
I don't understand the messiness you talk about as I am particular about chemical processing cleanliness.
The Combees work great, they are easy to use and clean to work with.
Could you describe your process in detail for me please.
You can pm me if you like.

 

[Christopher Walrath]

When I pour the chemistry out, at the end of a processing stage, back into the litre bottle (from whence it cam) through a plastic funnel, it splashes all over my limited space (onto drywall).

As stated, the tank works fine technically. Just not in the room and space I have available to use for darkroom work. The funnel seals the bottle. No air can escape except through the opening through which the liquid is entering causing major splashing and glugging that I cannot have in my 'darkroom'. Which is why it might be different were I to ever get a larger, better equipped space (not likely, not soon).

 

[eddie]

I now understand your problem. You need to find a way to keep the funnel from sealing the jug... I've used large paper clips, clothespins, and cardboard wedges to accomplish this. You just want something that will allow air into the jug, from the side of the funnel.
Try it. It may solve your messiness issue.

 

[Rick A]

My funnel has little ribs on the side just to prevent that very thing from happening. Sounds like it wasn't the tank, but operator error. Now you have the fix, and no tank--nerts! Anyway, find a new funnel- mitt der ribs ons der zide.(bad accent). And try the taco method.

 

[Christopher Walrath]

Yup.

 

[eddie]

Chris- You threw out the Combi-plan?

 

[Christopher Walrath]

Had no need for it. Actually the first indiscretion involving this thread.

 

[Mainecoonmaniac]

I've been using a Yankee Agitank and love it. However, it's not perfect. You can't invert the tank 180 degrees because the tank isn't sealed on top

 

[Martin Aislabie]

Hey Chris - I know a lot of folks trash the Combi tanks but I have been using them for several years and I have never had a problem. I add the chemicals to the tanks first, (in light of course) I have a separate tank for each bath and drop the film holder right into that and secure the lid (in the dark). I have done complete inversions without scratches and leaks. I have had positive experience with them. I never liked the funnel thing so I don't use it that way.

Wishing you success.

I do the same thing

The tanks are lined up in 20x24 Trays to catch the spills and splashes.

Never really had a problem with them

YMMV

Martin

 

[haziz]

My advice is to fish it out and use the Combi-Plan tank. Sounds like you were not using it correctly. I love using it and prefer it to manual use of Jobo tanks. Did you put in the rubber gaskets into the filling and bottom spouts? Did you loosen the top spout slightly to allow air in while draining the tank from the bottom spout over your funnel? I have no problem using it using the spouts with no uneven development whatsoever. People who advocate lowering the film into the developer in the dark are being paranoid. Works great with filling via the spouts. When tightened the spouts and tank will not leak even when fully inverted. I have about 5 individual tanks and none leak to any significant extent.

Sincerely,

Hany.

 

[df cardwell]

Been using Combi tanks for decades, and hundreds of sheets of film. No mess.

As Hany says, tighten the valves. You might even practice with water first.

I use 2 Rubbermaid dish trays. One for the tank, one for the bottles, funnel, and 2 liter pitcher.

(I only use the Combi when I travel. Sometimes I use one tank, sometimes, 3 for a mini sink line.
3 tanks fit in a dish tray)


People who advocate lowering the film into the developer in the dark are being paranoid.

Really ? Hmm. Funny how many processing errors disappear when you fill the tank first.

Suit yourself, it's YOUR film.

 

[Robert Budding]

People who advocate lowering the film into the developer in the dark are being paranoid.

Really ? Hmm. Funny how many processing errors disappear when you fill the tank first.

Suit yourself, it's YOUR film.

Probably depends on your development times. My normal development time is 12 minutes and I've never had a problem filling through the valves. I can, however, see how it could be a problem for shorter times.

 

[PhotoBob]

Hear ... Hear Hany
I have two tanks, bought a second when I saw it available.
I have used Combi-Plan exclusively since beginning large format photography. I have used a friend's tank and my own and they perform just fine ... no problems.
Hany makes some good troubleshooting points to keep in mind.
Say Hany ... maybe you and I should get together a make a video on the topic.

 

[alexhill]

Chris,

Have you considered one of the out-of-production Nikor stainless steel sheet film tanks? Just like the 35mm and 120 versions, except larger with a spiral cage for cut film up to 4x5 instead of spiral reels for roll film. Requires a little over a liter of solution and can process up to 12 sheets, providing the developer dilution at that volume supports that quantity.

This daylight tank is small enough to be held and inverted in one hand and it leaks no more than the smaller format stainless tanks when they are similarly inverted - meaning only a few drops. Stainless is also nice for temperature control in a water bath.

David Goldfarb has posted frequently in the past about this tank, including at one point the instructions for its use. It's usually an eBay item, which is where I purchased mine. It was pricey, but my copy was essentially brand new, and as a once-only lifetime purchase I consider it worth every penny.

Ken

I've never used the nikkor tanks myself, but other students got uneven development in them. Tray processing ftw. Have you ever tried to stack trays? I've heard of people using shelves under their enlarger to hold developer, stop, fix to save space.

 

[Joe VanCleave]

I've never used the nikkor tanks myself, but other students got uneven development in them. Tray processing ftw. Have you ever tried to stack trays? I've heard of people using shelves under their enlarger to hold developer, stop, fix to save space.

I use a set of 3-drawer plastic storage bins for developing paper and sheet film, a small set for 4x5, an intermediate set for 5x7 and a large set for 8x10. They take up very little space on my darkroom table, and permit use of an additional set of trays for rinsing and toning. I use them top-down, developer through fixer, so the drips won't reverse-contaminate the chemistry.

This method has worked so well that I've placed my normal darkroom trays in storage.

These bins can be purchased at places like Walmart or other stores with homewares and storage bins.

FYI, the attached photo shows such a storage bin in my portable darkroom box, then under construction. A Polaroid Model 800 camera is shown in the foreground, unfolded, within which I use paper negatives.

~Joe

 

[alexhill]

I use a set of 3-drawer plastic storage bins for developing paper and sheet film, a small set for 4x5, an intermediate set for 5x7 and a large set for 8x10. They take up very little space on my darkroom table, and permit use of an additional set of trays for rinsing and toning. I use them top-down, developer through fixer, so the drips won't reverse-contaminate the chemistry.

This method has worked so well that I've placed my normal darkroom trays in storage.

These bins can be purchased at places like Walmart or other stores with homewares and storage bins.

FYI, the attached photo shows such a storage bin in my portable darkroom box, then under construction. A Polaroid Model 800 camera is shown in the foreground, unfolded, within which I use paper negatives.

~Joe

This is exactly what I had in mind, but i was hesitant to recommend using one of those file-ing-thingys because I have never developed film that way, but I have used the trays from those cabinets as chemistry trays. Never once had a problem. Slick set up!

 

[bobwysiwyg]

Assuming the plugs are secured properly with gaskets, one other thing I have found helpful is once the film is loaded (I do it in a dark bark bag/tent) and the lid is on, bring it out and press the tank against your chest and carefully go around to make sure the soft rubber lid is truly secured by working your way around the top edge, particularly the corners. It seems the disimilar material, hard plastic tank and rubber lid don't seat completely without some effort. I'm able to do inversions with no leaks with my Combi. I did have some dribbling until I figured this last step out.

 

[Toffle]

Interesting thread. (I too missed the title that sparked the early comments)
I am considering a Combiplan tank. My local pusher... er... dealer has a single tank available fairly cheap. (If I added up all the "cheap" things I've picked up over the years, I could get a new car :rolleyes

The thing is, I'm quite comfortable with tray processing, and find that developing by inspection is really helpful for fine-tuning development. I do risk the occasional scratched negative when I get overly ambitious or shuffle the negatives the wrong way. I'd be interested in rigging up a slosh tray, which might be the best of both worlds.

I'm thinking I will give the combi a try and see how things turn out. If worst comes to worst, I might be advertising a "nearly new" combiplan tank in the classifieds.

Cheers,

 

[Christopher Walrath]

Now, that's a smart setup. Do you have a problem with sloshing of the chemistry upon opening/closing the drawers and, if so, have you found a way to combat it?