Hassy vs. RZ: Another one of THOSE threads....

Alan Gales

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When I worked sheet metal I wore a thick leather belt with two deep leather tool pouches attached. I also wore suspenders to distribute the weight to my shoulders. I still tried to only carry the tools I needed for the job at hand on me. The rest of my tools were nearby in my tool box. Why some women carry so much in a purse is beyond me.
 

lxdude

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I've told my girlfriend that I'm sure she could get by with carrying just half of her anvil collection....
 

analoguey

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Hehehe. I was wondering about Soviet cameras too -since they sent many more spacecraft by then.
So that answers The question.

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M Carter

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I've never been happy with the 90 for a classic portrait look. The 180, on the other hand - very nice lens. The 250 can give you a very nice compressed look.

Recently noticed there are plenty of the 140 soft focus lenses out there - with discs - for under $200. Really thinking of getting one to play around with.
 

analoguey

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The 90 is better for a full portrait /environmental portrait, seems to have just the right angle of view there. Plus the floating element.(kl)

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DcAnalogue

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Just bought a "New" (Mint) RB 67 Pro S (With 90mm C f/3,8 - Vivitar MC 2X Tele converter - 120 & 220 Pro SD Magazines) for less than half the price of a basic Hassie kit....
Already shot & developed a roll.
Almost all images were shot wide open...and I've never seen such I.Q. in other cameras.

Of course, Hassie is lighter e more compact but..... I didn't find the base kit (500 c/m & 80 mm) in the same mint conditions for less than 800 €.....
Don't tink I.Q. difference worth the price difference.....IMHO
 

Arklatexian

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Hassy vs RZ

Do you see the world in squares or rectangles?
When I look at my square ground glass, I see three formats: square, verticle rectangle and horizontal rectangle. At that time I make my choice and if I can't decide then, I can allways decide after the film is developed. This works on both the old Rolleicord and the old Hasselblad........Regards
 

alanrockwood

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I just bought an RB67 Pro S on ebay with two lenses (90mm and 180mm), two backs (120 and polaroid), and two finders (waist level and and 45 degree) for a total cost of $234.05, including shipping. It was formerly owned by a professional portrait photographer. The condition of the kit seems pretty good, all things considered.

I haven't used it yet, having only taking delivery on it yesterday, and I am still learning the mechanics. However, I think it's going to be a lot of fun. It's huge and heavy, and I expect to use it on a tripod, but I don't think it would be that bad as a hand-held camera under certain conditions, e.g. using the waist level finder.

By the way, I also have several Kiev 60 bodies (including a couple of the 4.5x6 versions), and several lenses for the Kiev, including one 80mm Zeiss Biometer, a wide angle lens (45mm) and a Portrait lens (150mm). There are a number of Zeiss lenses available for this camera at a much lower price than similar lenses for other cameras, like Hassies, and of course the Russian lenses are very inexpensive, and optical quality of the Russian lenses isn't bad. The prices on the Kiev cameras and lenses is pretty low, but the trick is to get body that actually works.
 
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film_man

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It's huge and heavy, and I expect to use it on a tripod, but I don't think it would be that bad as a hand-held camera under certain conditions, e.g. using the waist level finder.

Get yourself the adjustable left-hand grip and then be amazed at how easy it is to use handheld.
 

europanorama

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When I get home tonight, I'll take a look at how my 553 ELX is set up and how the lever moves throughout the range. Maybe I'll be able to post a photo tomorrow.
I have read that using motor ELX /RZ with winder and 120 is also a problem for film-flatness.
 

film_man

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I have read that using motor ELX /RZ with winder and 120 is also a problem for film-flatness.

Never noticed any flatness issues with my 500ELX and that's after dozens of rolls through it.
 

europanorama

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Mamyia Auto Xtl35 or Olympus OM1?

good i waited a bit longer until it was clear olympus OM1 will have a winder or motordrive n 1972 but mamyias winder never came. Later 1978 switched to contax due to lens-quality-problems and still using my Zeiss on EOS digital.
 

bluez

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I had a 500cm with an 80mm T* and a new screen in early 90's. Buying ekstra lenses was very expenseive, but it was a nice solid camera. I love german optics, and also had a Contax system.
The zeiss lenses are very solid and just buy adjusting you can feel that this is high end equipment.

However when i bought a used Mamiya super 645 ten years ago i discoverd that mamiya lenses are very good. ( I wasen't that found of squere 6x6)

So the last 2-3 years i have rebought medium format (645 pro and RZ67) and i have 7 lenses for the RZ and 8 for the mamiya 645. And i would like to say that the mamiya lenses are
all very good and solid. The RZ lenses are all pro lenses. And they are usually sold for a fair price on ebay. Great sharpnes and color rending.
 

Greg Heath

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The Hasselblad 503cw I have. I love it. The lens is amazingly clear. I also own an RB67. The lenses or ok. Compared to the Hasselblad, well there is no comparison. The Hassy wins by a longshot for that "zeiss pop" crispness. But the RB or the RZ is good for is closeups. With the different lenses on the RB67 (RZ) closeups are just amazing. That's one reason I could never sell it. Plus it shoots in 6x7, which is easier to sell because it's more like a 35mm format. Sure I could get lens extensions for the Hasselblad but that is a hassle.

Both are great cameras in their own way.

Greg
 

flavio81

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Compared to the Hasselblad, well there is no comparison. The Hassy wins by a longshot for that "zeiss pop" crispness.

This is very interesting. Would you please list the exact lenses you were using? There are many series of RB-compatible lenses, with different technologies, designs, and coatings:

- The first series, which were single-coated and the wideangles had no floating system. And according to some the quality control of such lenses were not so good.
- The "C" series, which had a primitive multicoating; the 65mm was redesigned totally and now it had a floating system, and the 90mm was redesigned totally as well.
- The K/L series, much more modern in all respects, most designs are very different from the former series and state-of-the-art, with anomalous-dispersion glasses, apochromatic correction, etc.

The modern (mid 80s-onward) Zeiss lenses should be compared to the third iteration listed, otherwise the comparison is not so fair!

Anyways, the lens I used the most is the 90/3.8 "C" series Mamiya-sekor, and I find that it fully uses the resolution of Neopan Acros 100 film right to the very corners, which for me is all the performance I need and expect
 
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Sirius Glass

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Then the comparison will not be so fair, but that does not matter since the Zeiss lenses are superior anyway.
 

film_man

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Having used lots of Hasselblad lenses and comparing with the KL lenses I have for the RB67 I'll say that the Hassy has that zeiss pop but for me that does not win as the Mamiya KL glass is just as detailed (if not more) yet with a more gentle look. I find the comparison very similar to Leica vs Zeiss glass in 35mm. The Zeiss is in your face with contrast and colour, the Leica is very detailed but easier on the eye.

Anyway, it is a personal preference thing, both systems are amazing.
 

Greg Heath

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I will have to look at my RB67 lenses and get the details. I believe they are the older lenses. I recall seeing some Portra Images on a Facebook RB67 group and the lens images are super clear.
So I am sure the later lenses are better built. I might have to shoot with them this week and run a roll thru just to see.

I better start doing some stretching exercises so I can pick up the camera without slipping a disk [emoji12]
 
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Sirius Glass

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I better start doing some stretching exercises so I can pick up the camera without slipping a disk [emoji12]

Good advice for both RZs and Hasselblads. Who wants to have to bother with a truss while taking photographs.
 

Kyle M.

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Both an RZ and a Hasselblad were on my "Holy Grail" list. I got both in 1 week about a month and a half ago. At first I was really impressed by both then the more I compared the images and the more I worked with them the more I realized I'm just not into 6x6. I had an early 80mm C lens for the 'Blad and the 110mm 2.8 for the RZ and I honestly could not tell that much of a difference in sharpness, alas in the end the 'Blad got sold and I still have the RZ and am very happy with it. If I ever feel the need to shoot 6x6 again I have a very nice little Franka folder with an excellent Schneider lens on it.
 

flavio81

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I better start doing some stretching exercises so I can pick up the camera without slipping a disk [emoji12]

I own two 90/3.8C lenses and it seems that they have different manufacture date. One of them is VERY heavy compared to the other!! And they seem identical. So it seems that they got lighter at some point in time.

With the 90/3.8C or the 127/3.8C (which is the smallest and lightest of the "C" line) and a waist finder, I find the RB67 not so heavy. Quite OK for carrying.
 

Kyle M.

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The RZ is supposedly a full pound lighter than an RB, and I cannot guarantee it since I no longer have my RB but I certainly feel that my RZ with the 110mm 2.8 is a fair bit heavier than the RB with a 90mm 3.8C. Maybe the difference is in the lens? That 110mm is a hog of a lens thats for sure.
 

flavio81

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Maybe the difference is in the lens? That 110mm is a hog of a lens thats for sure.

Most likely!!

The 127/3.8 is a light lens (no pun intended). The 110 is 2.8 so it should have much bigger glass inside. It also has more lens elements than the 127/3.8.
The funny thing is that IIRC the 110/2.8 was the lightest RZ lens? Or at least the smallest then.
 
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