Hassy 500c

[ctrout]

Besides the Hasselblad 500c, are there any other medium format cameras that will allow the backs to be changed mid-roll that will also function at all shutter speeds without batteries?

 

[MattKing]

Mamiya RB67 - all models.

 

[frank]

Bronica S2/a

 

[John Wiegerink]

Later models of the Koni-Omega cameras also.

 

[ctrout]

Thanks for the replies so far. Although it looks pretty complex to use, I'm really liking what I'm seeing on the Mamiya. The Bronica, although a fine camera I'm sure, lacks the versatility of the different negative size options and I really would like the 6x7 option. I'll be googling the Koni-Omega next.

 

[bdial]

There are many, a few that come to mind quickly; Rollei SL66, Graflex XL, Mamiya Press, Crown and Speed Graphics that have grafloc backs, Various Linhofs.

 

[ctrout]

Just looked the Koni-Omega up. I guess I should have specified SLR in my request. I dabble in macro/close-up so the parallax of a rangefinder would be frustrating.

 

[ctrout]

So far, I've looked at all of these and the RB67 is king of the hill for my desires. I love the fact that it can do both 6x7 and 645 and the fact that portrait/landscape can be accomplished by simply rotating the back. The two main drawbacks for my purposes are the 1/400 shutter speed limit and the complexity of use. I'm really just thinking of using whatever I choose for one or two outings a year to do some landscape, still, or portrait shots, so none of the limitations of any of these cameras should be deal breakers per se, but I know what I want. It would be great if there was something that could do 645 and 6x7, mid-roll back changes, 1-1/1000 shutter speeds, all mechanical, with a form factor and simplicity of operation of the Bronica or the Hasselblad.

 

[MattKing]

The RB67 is actually simple to use. It is just slightly different.

It is big though, and it and each of the lenses are also heavy.

I do use it handheld sometimes, but it is definitely at its best on a tripod.

 

[John Wiegerink]

I had a nice RB67 outfit years ago and it turn out fantastic work, but I shot mainly weddings so went with Hasselblad and sold the RB67. If you don't mind a little weight and a big handful then the RB67 should be just what you need for your type work. Folks will say to go with the RZ, but the RB's are going for give-away prices. In fact, now that I'm out of doing weddings I wouldn't mind picking up a clean RB67 PRO S

 

[ctrout]

I'm just getting back into film photography and thought that I would be shooting B&W 35mm and scanning the negatives so I could work with them. The more I (over)think this though, I figure that if I want high tech, fast shooting, I'll just pull out my digital eos gear. If I want to shoot film for the different look and feel, the slower, more methodical shooting technique, and the nostalgia, I may as well make the whole shooting process a part of the enjoyment. I changed my plan a bit and decided to get a darkroom instead of a scanner. The enlarger I found will allow me to print from 2.25" x 2.25" negatives so I figured why not get the most from all of my gear. I was thinking 645 but of course, the 67 is bigger and therefore in my mind, "better."

The complexity that I refer to in using the RB67 is that film winding and shutter cocking are separate operations, some of the lenses require reading a scale on the camera to make the correct adjustment of the "floating optics" before focusing, ensuring shutters are cocked before lens removal and then decocting them for storage only to have to remember to recheck them again before mounting the lens. This, unless of course you forget to recheck, in which case you must remember to slightly remove the darkslide to decouple before depressing the shutter button to decock the mirror , thereby resynchronizing the mirror and shutter... Just a lot of little quirks to remember for someone who grew up with a "manual of arms" that consists of remove lens cap, compose, select correct exposure, focus, depress shutter button, cycle lever, repeat.

Oh and John, if I go with the RB67, it will be the Pro S model. I don't mind carrying a little weight either. When I backpack into the mountains, I will not be found without a minimum of a Canon 5D3, 24-105L, 100-400L2, and 1.4x tc in my pack that typically weighs about 55 pounds BEFORE the photo gear goes in. The MF gear would not be going on backpacking trips though.

 

[MattKing]

The complexity that I refer to in using the RB67 is that film winding and shutter cocking are separate operations, some of the lenses require reading a scale on the camera to make the correct adjustment of the "floating optics" before focusing, ensuring shutters are cocked before lens removal and then decocting them for storage only to have to remember to recheck them again before mounting the lens. This, unless of course you forget to recheck, in which case you must remember to slightly remove the darkslide to decouple before depressing the shutter button to decock the mirror , thereby resynchronizing the mirror and shutter... Just a lot of little quirks to remember for someone who grew up with a "manual of arms" that consists of remove lens cap, compose, select correct exposure, focus, depress shutter button, cycle lever, repeat.

It really isn't this complex.
The push-slap cocking/winding action is intuitive and quickly becomes second nature.
The floating optics lenses can generally be left at one of two settings - marked with detents - except for close focus work. Even if you do decide to adjust it exactly, it is simple and quick.
You always leave the lenses cocked, unless you know that they will be stored for months. And you cannot mount them on the camera unless both are appropriately cocked.

 

[ctrout]

For those who have used the RB67, how much of a problem might the shutter speed limitation prove to be for landscapes? The only way I can see to overcome this limitation would be through the use of the slowest films available on the brightest days or the use of ND filters. Am I on the right track here?

 

[MattKing]

For those who have used the RB67, how much of a problem might the shutter speed limitation prove to be for landscapes? The only way I can see to overcome this limitation would be through the use of the slowest films available on the brightest days or the use of ND filters. Am I on the right track here?

For landscapes, the 1/400 top speed is almost never a problem. It is rare that I want less depth of field than f/16 gives me.

Instead, I find myself regularly considering the extra depth of field that f/22, f/32 and f/45 apertures (where available) give me - if the associated diffraction doesn't deter me.

If you are shooting other subjects like action shots, the RB may not be ideal, unless you incorporate flash, in which case the leaf shutter lenses are invaluable.

You will only feel constrained by that 1/400 speed if you wish to obtain shallow depth of field in bright situations. In those relatively rare cases I just put another back on with slower film, and add something like a red, polarizing or ND filter.

You need to remember that for a given subject and f/stop, a 6x7 (or even 6x4.5) camera will give you less depth of field than a 35mm camera.

 

[Theo Sulphate]

For those who have used the RB67, how much of a problem might the shutter speed limitation prove to be for landscapes? The only way I can see to overcome this limitation would be through the use of the slowest films available on the brightest days or the use of ND filters. Am I on the right track here?

I use both Hasselblad and RB67 for cityscapes (handheld) and landscapes. Usually HP5+ (400) or a 100 speed film. The top shutter speed of 500 (Hasselblad) or 400 (RB) has never been a limitation - I've never felt the need for a faster shutter speed. If you need 1/1000, the 200-series Hasselblads with their focal plane shutters would be a better choice.

Operation of the RB67 (I have two Pro S's) has become as natural as breathing: shoot, cock the shutter, advance the film.

 

[bdial]

For close up or macro work, the Rollei SLR or RB would be strong choices, both have bellows focusing and can focus pretty closely without additional accessories. The Rollei has a focal plane shutter which will give you a bit of flexibility with lenses.
Even though it doesn't have interchangeable backs, another to consider might be a Mamiya C330, which also has bellows focusing, and to deal with parallax in close ups you add the "Paramender" accessory which helps you compensate for the close up parallax problem.

For many of the rangefinders you can use a ground glass if you need really precise framing, though the rangefinder cameras would generally need extension tubes to work very close.

As stated, the sequences needed for operating the camera usually become second-nature after a bit of practice. All cameras have their individual idiosyncrasies that you get used to. That said, sometimes those "special features" just clash with your head and in that case, you sell the camera and move on to something else that fits you better.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

Just looked the Koni-Omega up. I guess I should have specified SLR in my request. I dabble in macro/close-up so the parallax of a rangefinder would be frustrating.

just stick with the Hasselblad.Newer ones such as the 501s are available for the cheap.

 

[Moopheus]

Just looked the Koni-Omega up. I guess I should have specified SLR in my request. I dabble in macro/close-up so the parallax of a rangefinder would be frustrating.

The Koni is not that great for close-up work. Also, it is hard to find backs with good working ratchets. But the lenses are top-notch.