That's painting a darker picture than these beautiful cameras deserve. Thousands of V-series cameras have worked for decades without ever receiving service, and a jam only happens if wrongly used. Of my three 501cs, one jammed once, and I was able to fix that myself! Learn proper camera operation, and you'll never have to.
The important thing is the condition of the camera
I agree. My only problems have been caused by user error and light seals leaking. Learn the drill and put a strip of black masking tape over the dark slide opening and all will be well.
Suggesting a "duct tape" way of working with Hasselblad does not bode well for the brand, even if the brand is not all roses either.
On another hand, changing light seals on Hasselblad back is not that hard.
If you like to do close-ups, look into the medium format cameras with bellows that lend themselves naturally to this kind of thing: The Rollei SL 66, THe Mamiya RB and RZ 67, the Fuji something-or-other 680 and one of the Bronicas as well I think.I also have started taking black and white studio shots of flowers
All Hasselblad backs will leak light eventually. The light seal is made by foam expanding and pressing a strip of plastic against felt. The felt eventually rubs down and the foam eventually loses its resilience. Putting a piece of tape over the slot isn't a hack (or "duct-tape" (i.e., Mickey Mouse) solution), it's practical.
The light seals in the Hasselblad film backs are easy to replace and are inexpensive.
All Hasselblad backs will leak light eventually. The light seal is made by foam expanding and pressing a strip of plastic against felt. The felt eventually rubs down and the foam eventually loses its resilience. Putting a piece of tape over the slot isn't a hack (or "duct-tape" (i.e., Mickey Mouse) solution), it's practical.
Kidding right ?
I've done it a few times. None of the kits I bought came with a strip of felt - waste of time if you don't replace that.
Anyway, the point of the tape is to never get light leaks through that slide opening. The light seal will fail at some point - who knows when. Is it better to prevent the light leaks or wait for them to happen, then replace the seals?
Which is better, duct tape and keep on using the back or no duct tape and not using the back? Pretty simple decision I think. It's a little like patching a tire or driving until the rim is the size of saucer. Besides, we're not talking permanent fix with duct tape or are we?Taping up the dark slide opening? Really? Might as well putting duct tape over ones mouth!
Which is better, duct tape and keep on using the back or no duct tape and not using the back? Pretty simple decision I think. It's a little like patching a tire or driving until the rim is the size of saucer. Besides, we're not talking permanent fix with duct tape or are we?
Taping up the dark slide opening? Really? Might as well putting duct tape over ones mouth!
I’ve had one* back with a failed seal, and have never experienced the dreaded jamb.
Oh no, not super glue! That's just plain nasty.I should have mentioned that the duct tape should be sealed around the edges and then coated with Super Glue.
You are very lucky to have a place to take your equipment to. Many folks here have no choice but to send it "snail mail" to Timbuktu and hope it gets there and back. When I was dealing in the camera trade I sent a very nice Leica M3 double stroke out for repair/tuneup and that was the last time I saw that camera. Took me many sales to recover from that loss.When I buy a film back I take it to Samys Camera and have their Hasselblad repair man check them out. He replaces light seals, frame spacing, ... . So far it have never costs much be back.
You are very lucky to have a place to take your equipment to. Many folks here have no choice but to send it "snail mail" to Timbuktu and hope it gets there and back. When I was dealing in the camera trade I sent a very nice Leica M3 double stroke out for repair/tuneup and that was the last time I saw that camera. Took me many sales to recover from that loss.
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