Hasselblad v series lens with best resolution

[Sirius Glass]

I loved that 135mm lens/bellows set-up, it was very sharp, and if you took your time, delivered great photographs.

It remains on my short list of Hasselblad lenses, together with the 350 mm or 500mm for landscapes.

This does no include the SWC, camera, lens set-up that would almost complete my bucket list, with, hopefully enough time to enjoy them.

The 135mm simply rocks when you need sharp details, period.

I do not have the 120 and 135 but I have passed up opportunities to buy because I do not use the Hasselblad for close ups.

 

[Paul Ozzello]

Isn't the CFE 40mm IF one of the sharpest lenses?

 

[Hayek]

By MTF diagrams alone, the 100 and 250 Superachromat are likely the highest resolving; the 60 enjoys less distortion than the 100 and is one of the better performers as well.

 

[Hayek]

Isn't the CFE 40mm IF one of the sharpest lenses?

It is, and the high resolving power extends to the corners.

 

[Sirius Glass]

By MTF diagrams alone, the 100 and 250 Superachromat are likely the highest resolving; the 60 enjoys less distortion than the 100 and is one of the better performers as well.

Both originally built on contract for NASA.

 

[Hayek]

Both originally built on contract for NASA.

Well, that makes sense then. Parallels the extreme acuity seen with the Leica R 180/4 APO Telyt, created for the US Navy.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

from a technical point of view ,it's probably the 180 but, they are all excellent performers.

true but, the 180mmCF f/4 is unbeatable.

 

[faberryman]

Does it matter if one lens is sharper if it is the wrong lens to create the intended image?

 

[Sirius Glass]

Does it matter if one lens is sharper if it is the wrong lens to create the intended image?

Do not bother us with details or facts!

 

[GLS]

By MTF diagrams alone, the 100 and 250 Superachromat are likely the highest resolving; the 60 enjoys less distortion than the 100 and is one of the better performers as well.

The 60mm Biogon that is, not the Distagon.

No need to inflate the price of the "mere mortal" Hasselblad lenses any further

Also the Biogon can only be used on the MK70 photogrammetric camera, so in all fairness should probably be excluded from this discussion.

 

[Sirius Glass]

The 60mm Biogon that is, not the Distagon.

No need to inflate the price of the "mere mortal" Hasselblad lenses any further

Also the Biogon can only be used on the MK70 photogrammetric camera, so in all fairness should probably be excluded from this discussion.

The Biogon is on the SWC cameras, which you may have noticed are also Hasselblads and therefore must be keep in this discussion.

 

[Arthurwg]

Technique might be more important than MTFs.

 

[GLS]

The Biogon is on the SWC cameras, which you may have noticed are also Hasselblads and therefore must be keep in this discussion.

There are two Biogons made for Hasselblad: the 38mm and the 60mm. Only the former is on the SWC (and also on the MKWE). The 60mm was made specifically for the NASA space missions, to be used in the MK70 camera which had a Réseau plate with etched gridlines, and no reflex mirror. The MK70 had interchangeable lenses and could also mount the 100mm Planar. Later an EL version of the MK70 was released for the commercial market.

The MK70 / Biogon 60mm isn't really part of the V-series (the topic of this thread), which is why I suggested possibly excluding it. Splitting hairs I suppose.

 

[Sirius Glass]

There are two Biogons made for Hasselblad: the 38mm and the 60mm. Only the former is on the SWC (and also on the MKWE). The 60mm was made specifically for the NASA space missions, to be used in the MK70 camera which had a Réseau plate with etched gridlines, and no reflex mirror. The MK70 had interchangeable lenses and could also mount the 100mm Planar. Later an EL version of the MK70 was released for the commercial market.

The MK70 / Biogon 60mm isn't really part of the V-series (the topic of this thread), which is why I suggested possibly excluding it. Splitting hairs I suppose.

Are you telling me that I now need to go out and buy th 60mm Biogon lens and the MK70 camera? Is the 100mm Planar the same or do I need to shop for that too?

 

[McDiesel]

Technique might be more important than MTFs.

This is so true with medium format in general and with Hasselblads in particular. If one wants to realize the promises their MTFs make, a tripod + MLU is a must. When people express disapointment with Zeiss V-glass, I assume they tried it handheld.

 

[Sirius Glass]

This is so true with medium format in general and with Hasselblads in particular. If one wants to realize the promises their MTFs make, a tripod + MLU is a must. When people express disapointment with Zeiss V-glass, I assume they tried it handheld.

I almost never use a tripod with the Hasselblad and have never has a blur, shake, or vibration problem hand held even for enlargements. I must use a tripod with the 500mm lens which has too great a swing weight for me to hand hold mainly because of the 1/[focal length] longest hand held shutter speed. Hasselblads have the 1/500 second shortest shutter speed.

 

[McDiesel]

I almost never use a tripod with the Hasselblad and have never has a blur, shake, or vibration problem hand held even for enlargements

Here comes the big reveal: you always had blur, shake and vibration problems. But your standards are too low to notice. Even for enlargements.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Here comes the big reveal: you always had blur, shake and vibration problems. But your standards are too low to notice. Even for enlargements.

It has never been a problem for any of my enlargements. I have checked with a magnifying glass. I do not make billboard sized enlargements.

 

[flavio81]

It has never been a problem for any of my enlargements. I have checked with a magnifying glass. I do not make billboard sized enlargements.

Come on, it's unscientific to put this video.

This isn't a valid test since the camera is not pivoting in any way. The whole horizontal base of the camera is sitting flatly against the desk thus there is zero chance for the camera to vibrate.

For the penny to be disturbed, the vibration would have to have enough force to overcome the weight of the camera, which is probably about 1.5Kg in that combination.

 

[McDiesel]

Sirius is good at being a devoted Hasselblad fan Not the same as being a realist though. We're staring at MTF charts. That performance is not attainable without a tripod. I don't use tripod much but I'm comfortable with this truth.

 

[guangong]

I have a suspicion that Sirius and I take pictures of other objects, and not MTF charts. My guide has always been whether the human eye can see any difference in resolution from one photograph to the next under the same conditions. Zeiss does make some spectacular lenses for movies and scientific applications, but these are far beyond my needs.
I also practically never use a tripod. The beauty of a Hasselblad is the way it sits comfortably in the hand. I have shot b/w printed matter with a 35mm rf camera at 1/4 sec with no visible shake enlarged to 16x20. Also very slow shutter speeds with Rollei TLR. Slow speeds could be matched using Hassy with sports finder and mirror lockup. As with shooting a gun, slow shutter speeds require being completely relaxed and at ease. Neither camera or gun can be muscled.

 

[McDiesel]

Everyone does. Let's not derail this into the usual "I don't shoot brick walls" truism.

I simply pointed out that if someone wants to realize MTF performance in their photos, i.e. actually see the difference between, say, 250mm and Superachromat, or between 150mm vs 180mm, then a tripod + MLU is a must.

Sirius claims of being a moist self-propelled wine-drinking tripod are just funny and untrue. There's a bit of shake in every handheld photo he ever took, and also in mine and yours. I think we're all OK with that, but the OP wants the top performance for some (I am sure) legit reason.

 

[McDiesel]

BTW, out of all MF cameras I ever used, I found the Mamiya TLR to be the easiest to shoot handheld. The extra weight + absence of a mirror do wonders, particularly with the side grip which adds its own weight. I have plenty of practically sharp images at 1/15s @55mm taken with them.

 

[Arthurwg]

I do very well using my Hasselblad handheld with my 60mm lens. But in my experience the best handheld medium format cameras are the Mamiya 6 & 7. Those shutters seem to make no commotion what-so-ever.

Still, I've been reading Barry Thornton's excellent "Edge of Darkness," which has a profound examination of sharpness. Among other things he says that all enlargements require a glass carrier to provide an absolutely flat negative.

 

[eli griggs]

I do very well using my Hasselblad handheld with my 60mm lens. But in my experience the best handheld medium format cameras are the Mamiya 6 & 7. Those shutters seem to make no commotion what-so-ever.

Still, I've been reading Barry Thornton's excellent "Edge of Darkness," which has a profound examination of sharpness. Among other things he says that all enlargements require a glass carrier to provide an absolutely flat negative.

So the solution is easy enough, Grep (?)sp anti-Newton glass slides.

Two sides of flatness in a durable dust free environment.

Might have a few of these left but do the still make them in 2.25 cm x 2.25 cm and, are they affordable?

I've some b&w in those AN 35mm slides, but a simple AN glass to glass holder is easy enough to make, IF, you can find panes large enough and thin to cut.


Omega large format enlargers have some glass carriers, but I do no believe I have other than 4" x 5" in that area.

Any tips about other Omega film holders up to 5" x 7"?

A 6cm x 9cm would be nice as well as in between.