Hasselblad T*

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Matt5791

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Can anyone tell me if the Hasselblad C lenses in black are all T* or if some of the early ones were not infact marked T* (but were)?

I have bought a black C 150mm Sonnar off ebay, described as a T*, but not marked as such on the barrel. Before I tackle the seller I wanted to make sure I had my facts straight.

Even so, the lens was a good buy if it is not a T* and in nice condition.

Any help appreciated,

Matt
 

skahde

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I have bought a black C 150mm Sonnar off ebay, described as a T*, but not marked as such on the barrel. Before I tackle the seller I wanted to make sure I had my facts straight.
I have a black Sonnar 150mm T* and a black Sonnar 250mm which is not marked T*. The reflections on the glass surfaces show exactly the same colours. I can't find any difference. If the price was right even for a T-lens, I wouldn't be worried at all.

best

Stefan
 

Sirius Glass

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T* are multicoated, without the T* there is only one coating on the lens elements. I do not believe the untrained eye can tell the difference looking a the lens. One would need to compare it to a T* lens by aiming it near a bright light and looking a the flare pattern or see a Hasselblad trained technician.

If it is not marked, I would not trust that it is a T* although it could be a T*.

Steve
 

edtbjon

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There were a few lenses made which indeed had T* coating but wasn't marked as such. But the most notorious ones were the chromed lenses with T* coating, which if they are in good shape would collect a few extra $$$.
As the others have pointed out, you shouldn't need to worry about performance. The 150 have few glass-air surfaces and is a very good performer regardless of single- or multi-coating.

//Björn
 

skahde

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[
I do not believe the untrained eye can tell the difference looking a the lens.
Yes you need a small bit of experience and I've seen enough samples of single- and multicoated Hassleblad-lenses to easily tell them apart: With T-lenses you have purple and yellowish (no green) reflections. With T* lenses reflections are purple and lightly greenish (sometimes stronger green together with amber: 50mm Distagon CT*). This is at least true for the 50mm CT*, 80mm CT*, 80mm F, 150mm CT* and 250mm CT*. If you Hasselblad-lens has a greenish reflection, chances are it is T*-coated.
One would need to compare it to a T* lens by aiming it near a bright light and looking a the flare pattern or see a Hasselblad trained technician.
What you describe is a good way to check your lens for haze and flare but at least with the 150mm Sonnar you will not see any coating-reflections at all. I think you rather mean you aim a bright light at the lens and watch the reflections from the same direction. Doing this in front of a dark background may be helpfull too, btw.

best

Stefan
 

skahde

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There were a few lenses made which indeed had T* coating but wasn't marked as such. But the most notorious ones were the chromed lenses with T* coating, which if they are in good shape would collect a few extra $$$.
The ring carrying the T* designation and the serial number can be screwed off with some lenses (50mm CT*) swapping the rings between a chrome and black T* lens is an easy way to produce a chrome T* lens. I do not want to know how many of the chrome T*-lenses were created that way.

best

Stefan
 

mikebarger

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I have a battered chrome non T* and a nicer black T*. To be honest, I have not one photograph that I can say, boy should have used the T* lens.

However, implying a lens was T* coated I'm sure I would have bid more than for a non T* lens. Non T*'s seem to bring less than T*'s, esp. for the chromes.

Mike
 

skahde

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In any event, I'm sure you will like the 150mm Sonnar. It is a very usefull FL and its performance will leave little to be desired.

best

Stefan
 

skahde

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I'm hoping for some very flattering portraits!
Matt, maybe you already know about that: if want to do tight headshots a 16mm or 21mm extension ring or a proxar will be helpfull. The lens alone will not focus close enough.

best

Stefan
 
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