Hasselblad metered prism VS. ligthmeter?

[Chan Tran]

I would go with a separate meter.

 

[mshchem]

I learned in Alan Ross' workshop in Yosemite it is not a good idea to meter through a filter [other than a polarizer], instead use the filter factor.

I have a PME 45 prism with the incident meter. I don't use it too many buttons. I agree use a filter factor. I have a couple Minolta IV F meters, I always use incident and my experience too judge exposure. TTL meters are neat but I don't really know how to use them effectively.

 

[MattKing]

TTl meters are wonderful for close focus work.
If you learn how to use any meter well, it will serve you well.
A TTl meter on one camera is awkward to use to set the exposure on another camera.
These are lessons from someone who has too many meters, too many cameras, and the subset, too many cameras with built in TTl meters.

 

[bdial]

Very old thread I know but I am wondering if the PM45 will meter properly when using a10 stop ND filter.

I doubt it, I haven't actually tried to use mine at very low light levels, but I don't think it would be that sensitive.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I recently had Hasselblad recalibrate my PME light meter. They could not set it to work with my Accumat D screen so I have to set the ISO to half the box speed to get the proper reading. I have a Pentax Digital Spot Meter for critical readings especially when using colored filters for black & white using the Zone System.

 

[Kodachromeguy]

I learned in Alan Ross' workshop in Yosemite it is not a good idea to meter through a filter [other than a polarizer], instead use the filter factor.

Why not meter through most filters? I remember reading to not use a CDS meter to measure through a red filter, but Orange, Yellow, and Green were fine. My experience is that metering a silicon cell meter (Gossen Luna Pro digital and Sekonic 308S) through Yellow and Green are fine.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Why not meter through most filters? I remember reading to not use a CDS meter to measure through a red filter, but Orange, Yellow, and Green were fine. My experience is that metering a silicon cell meter (Gossen Luna Pro digital and Sekonic 308S) through Yellow and Green are fine.

I used a calibrated meter to compare the filter factor against the through the filter reading and I found that the Red reading was off some Oranges were correct but darker were not, Yellow was accurate, ... so I would rather take a straight reading and then adjust for the filter. The problem is that the spectrum of the meter is not flat across the light spectrum.

 

[mshchem]

I use my Robot meter on my F5 , I always auto bracket for slides. My feeling is the only time a reflectance meter is spot on is when you are taking pictures of dead matte gray cards. My 1st camera was a Pentax SP 500. I was an idiot kid, that average meter gave me pretty good exposures.
I've had 3 or 4 spot meters Pentax and Sekonic. I just never took to them. Modern film that I use doesn't really respond the way the old thick non-hardened emulsions of yore. XTOL and TMY don't really zone system.. Split grade printing is my route when I get in a bind.

 

[GLS]

I always use a hand held meter (Sekonic L-758D), typically in spot mode. It takes more time than an in-camera meter, but you cannot beat it for accuracy and knowing where all the scene tones will fall. This is especially important for slide film, and can save on wasteful bracketing.

 

[etn]

Very old thread I know but I am wondering if the PM45 will meter properly when using a10 stop ND filter.

All meters have a specified operating range which you can look up in the manual. For the PME45, it is:

• Spot metering: +1 to +21 EV (ISO 100)
• Integral: -1 to +19
• Incident: -3 to +17

(As a side note, I wonder why it goes as high as +21 EV, as the brightest value achieved by natural lighting is 16 EV!)

Now imagine that ambient lighting conditions are, say, 8 EV. Measuring through a 10-stop ND filter would reduce the apparent lighting value, seen by the camera, to -2 EV. This is outside the range of the meter, in other words it will not provide an accurate measurement.

Through the lens metering is good for the following reasons:

• it is more convenient than using an external meter (this is somewhat debatable with non-coupled meters such as the PME45 and subject to personal preference)
• no need for complex exposure calculations when using macro tubes or bellows
• with polarizers or color filters, which have a "reasonable" filter factor (less than 10 stop!), it takes the filter factor into account - BUT BEWARE that some meters are sensitive to the spectrum or polarization of the incoming light: the result might be wrong in that case.

Hope this helps I personally use my PME45 almost 100% of the time nowadays. Only exception is when I want to reduce the bulk of the camera on specific occasions. With age however, my eyes not being what they were a few years ago, I realize that the waist level finder is getting more and more difficult to use... sad reality of life (I speak like an old fart again, better stop )

Etienne