Hasselblad Lens Shade Question

[brent8927]

I took advantage of the last KEH sale to buy a new 50mm lens, which I'm really excited about. Now I have a 50-80-120 setup.

The lens shades take up quite a bit of space, and as you know with Hasselblad lenses (at least CF lenses), you can't mount the lens shade backwards for storage except on the 50 I believe.

I'm running out of space in my bag, but I really don't want to buy a bigger bag. I use a Hadley Pro and fine it small/thin enough to not be a hassle to take everywhere I go. I use a Lowepro backpack if I'm out hiking, and that fits everything.

When I put the lens shade for the 120 on the 80, I don't notice any vignetting in the viewfinder as long as the shade is clicked into place. But if I turn it about 15 degrees or so it starts vignetting the corners, so I know the clearance is tight. Obviously there's no vignetting if I use the lens shade for the 80 on the 120, but I know that lens is more prone to flare and a longer shade is typically preferred.

My question is, do any of you use the longer shade on you 80mm? And do you have any issues with it? Or is it better to use the 80mm shade on the 120mm lens? If you couldn't bring both shades with you, which shade would you bring for use with both lenses.

In case it helps I use the 80mm the most by far. The 120mm is mostly for close-ups, though I've been using it for portraits a little more. All of my shots are outdoors, mostly nature shots and "snapshots" of my wife.

 

[HiHoSilver]

You're sure right about having both shades eating up bag space. I almost never take the shade for the 150 - and haven't had any trouble with flare - but I don't shoot into the sun either. The 80 wears the shade (B50, dammit) - instead of any protective filter. If I know I'm gonna compose w/ the 150 into the sun, I'd likely leave some gear behind to make room for the large and not particularly robust plastic shade for the 150. I rarely have flare that I can see. I don't use a shade for the 50 at all. Mine lacks the ring that holds the b60 mount & I use 67mm filters. Yeah, that's not the way it was intended. But I don't have an image from the 50 w/ flare. I do find it lives on the camera more than either of the other two combined. I think you'll really enjoy it. I got the 50 largely because of the 3' min focus of the 80. I didn't know about the proxar attachment at that time. Just this wk, I found extension tubes & have a few to develop I'm looking forward to.

If your shooting goes into the sun regularly, you may want to look into a compendium shade or perhaps aftermarket for the 50. But I'd shoot some before convincing yourself you need it.

Have ALOT of fun w/ that new setup. All tools are compromises, but I find the blads really sweet.

 

[Sirius Glass]

The SWC, 50mm, 80mm, 250mm lenses have square lens shades that will allow the lens cap to be attached and removed. So those are stored and carried with the lens shades and lens caps on.
The 500mm lens has a round screw on lens shade with a cap that fits over the end of the lens shade. So that is stored and carried with the lens shade and lens cap on.
The 150mm lens has a round bayonet lens shade that does not allow the lens cap to be attached. So that is stored and carried without the lens shade on.

A special note: Since the SWC uses a view finder and is not an slr, I was taking some really great photographs with the lens cap one. So I put a strip of yellow gaffer's tape on the lens shade and lens cap. That way with or without the lens shade I see the yellow tape in the view finder as a reminder to take off the lens cap.

 

[randyB]

You won't know for sure if the shade will vignette until you stop the lens down to its smallest f/stop and then check the image at the film plane. The lens must be focused at infinity. Most viewfinders only show 90 to 95 percent of the image. 99% of the time I use the bellows lens shade on my Blad lenses and I do extend it just a little past the marking for the lens I'm using.

 

[Alan Gales]

With my 8x10 I just use a darkslide to shade the lens. Now I realize that your Hasselblad darkslide is tiny and you would just look silly doing that. On the same principle a lot of outdoor photographers wore brimmed hats to use as a lens shade. Since you live in Milwaukee you could use one of those cheese hats they wear at the Brewer's games!

 

[HiHoSilver]

'Glad Sirius weighed in. He has a few more miles in Swedish moccasins than I.

'Missing the proper ring for the 50, I can't add anything.

On the 80, the only lens cap that fits w/ the shade in place (I have the B50 version) is a square plastic slip-on that always falls off if I try to carry it w/ it on. Someone mentioned later lens were B60 (which would solve the hassle of adapters) may work differently. 'Pretty much the same for the 150. If a cap fits, my size XL paws can't make it work.

'Hope your versions are more harmonious. Either way, you're gonna enjoy that kit.

 

[Sirius Glass]

The SWC, 50mm, 80mm, 150mm and 250mm lenses are CF lenses and take the B60 bayonet shade mounts.

The 500mm is a C lens that I got such a good price on that I bent my CF or later rule.

 

[Sirius Glass]

You won't know for sure if the shade will vignette until you stop the lens down to its smallest f/stop and then check the image at the film plane. The lens must be focused at infinity. Most viewfinders only show 90 to 95 percent of the image. 99% of the time I use the bellows lens shade on my Blad lenses and I do extend it just a little past the marking for the lens I'm using.

None of the lens shades that I have for any camera causes vignetting.

 

[brent8927]

All my lenses are CF, but I'm only able to store the lens shades on two lenses, as the camera with the lens attached is the full height of my bag. Which means currently I'm not able to store the 80mm shade on the lens.

I hadn't thought about the viewfinder only showing a smaller percentage of the image. I guess it would make sense Hasselblad would design the 80mm shade to be about as long as possible without causing vignetting, as that shade is meant for only the 80mm lens.

It sounds like my best option is when limited on space to use the 80mm shade on both the 80 & 120mm and leave the longer shade at home. And use a hat if I have one!

 

[Alan Gales]

I was up in Chicago back in the late 1980's with a couple of friends. We decided to head up to Milwaukee to catch a Brewer's game. There were all these cheese heads watching the game. We decided to all buy a cheese hat for a souvenir but we found they were not cheap. Of course if you went to a lot of games and wore them enough it wouldn't have been bad.

 

[HiHoSilver]

Ah - the CF

'Missed that in the first post. Thx. Sirious. My 150 is CF, others just C.

 

[randyB]

shade

None of the lens shades that I have for any camera causes vignetting.

Try a shade designed for a telephoto on a wide angle lens, you will get vignetting.

 

[Andrew Johns]

You could always opt for a Hasselblad Proshade. It fits very well in the front pocket of a Billingham Hadley Pro.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Try a shade designed for a telephoto on a wide angle lens, you will get vignetting.

One could also put diesel fuel in the tank of a gasoline vehicle, but then it would not get very far. <<insert comment about RTFM here>> Furthermore since each lens has the proper hood attached [the 150mm lens has its lens hood stored with it in the lens wrap] there is no way to cross dress the lens hoods. Also all the square lens hoods clearly state on the top edge the focal length range for the hood [there is a reason that they are labeled]. And except for the SWC, all the lenses are used on an slr and therefore any cross dressing problems would be immediately seen.

 

[MattKing]

How about a compendium hood?

 

[RalphLambrecht]

I took advantage of the last KEH sale to buy a new 50mm lens, which I'm really excited about. Now I have a 50-80-120 setup.

The lens shades take up quite a bit of space, and as you know with Hasselblad lenses (at least CF lenses), you can't mount the lens shade backwards for storage except on the 50 I believe.

I'm running out of space in my bag, but I really don't want to buy a bigger bag. I use a Hadley Pro and fine it small/thin enough to not be a hassle to take everywhere I go. I use a Lowepro backpack if I'm out hiking, and that fits everything.

When I put the lens shade for the 120 on the 80, I don't notice any vignetting in the viewfinder as long as the shade is clicked into place. But if I turn it about 15 degrees or so it starts vignetting the corners, so I know the clearance is tight. Obviously there's no vignetting if I use the lens shade for the 80 on the 120, but I know that lens is more prone to flare and a longer shade is typically preferred.

My question is, do any of you use the longer shade on you 80mm? And do you have any issues with it? Or is it better to use the 80mm shade on the 120mm lens? If you couldn't bring both shades with you, which shade would you bring for use with both lenses.

In case it helps I use the 80mm the most by far. The 120mm is mostly for close-ups, though I've been using it for portraits a little more. All of my shots are outdoors, mostly nature shots and "snapshots" of my wife.

I usually shade any lens with my hand from as far away as I can during exposure.

 

[Sirius Glass]

How about a compendium hood?

I have the Hasselblad Compendium by Richard Nordin but not a compendium hood. Therefore I do not have a vignetting problem.

 

[film_man]

I would just take the 80 hood and use it on the 120 too. Basically I never found flare to be an issue with any CF or newer lens, the only reason I kept hoods on was for protection. One thing I used to do when packing the blad was leave the hood on and use that space for putting film and little things. Obviously that works when you pack just for transport, not when shooting.