Hasselblad leatherette glue

guangong · Jun 14, 2018

The leatherette covering on one of my magazines is not peeling off but instead is sliding around. Which means that it is not stiff but very flexible. When I am holding the camera.the leather scoots up along the back and I must push slide it back into place using my thumb. Any suggestions?

nsurit · Jun 14, 2018

sounds like it will need to be removed. What I've used that works well is a product called Pliobond. Stinks really bad at first, but that does go away.

naeroscatu · Jun 14, 2018

+1 to the above suggestion. You need to detach the leatherette and clean it up well of any residual dried glue (rub using cotton swabs with alcohol or lighter fluid). Apply the new glue.

saman13 · Jun 14, 2018

Yep, pliobond works very well for putting leatherette on a camera. You can find it at most hardware stores. But be careful, if you squeeze the tube to mix it before you open it, it'll want to all come out at once.

shutterfinger · Jun 14, 2018

https://www.ebay.com/itm/AUTOMOTIVE...193682&hash=item4416ad7957:g:kdkAAOSwJ7RYWCcw

itsdoable · Jun 14, 2018

I'll just give an alternate view - but point out that Pliobond will work just fine.

Pliobond is a high strength permanent contact cement. For leatherette on cameras, a general purpose contact cement (like Lepages) will work just as well. I will point out that "permanant" may not be what you want on a camera, as the original leatherette is designed to be removable during servicing.

Most factory leatherette is attached with a double-sided tape adhesive, which is applied to the leatherette before cutting. Most camera leatherette from 60's can be heated and peeled off, and the old adhesive layer removed from the leatherette. Double sided adhesive tape (ie:3M) of various permanence can be easily re-applied.

All that said, I have used household contact cement successfully, and it is relatively easy to remove later.

(Note that modern cameras - film and digital - often have a rubber cladding, which may not bond with contact cements)

John Koehrer · Jun 14, 2018

Pliobond is permanent when used as a contact cement. Glue on two surfaces, let it get tacky & it's permanent. Use it on only
one surface & it's removable(with encouragement!).

shutterfinger · Jun 14, 2018

Products are not available in all areas of a given country or in all countries.
Solvent based contact cements require harsh chemical solvents to remove any residue from fingers or camera. Those solvents are not compatible with cameras or skin in most cases.
A cured single layer of Pliobond 25 can be removed without solvents but acetone makes it easier. Acetone is/was the main ingredient in nail polish remover.
DAP Weldwood Nonflammable Contact Cement is better as its a neoprene latex based contact cement that can be removed with water when wet or rubs off easily when dry. Its major drawback is its only available in quarts or larger quantities.

Plibond is not available in my area. Members in other areas of the world may have to read spec sheets to find a product available in their area that works similarly to those recommended.

sissysphoto · Jun 14, 2018

Web lock tn 25 transfer tape

AgX · Jun 15, 2018

John Koehrer said:
Pliobond is permanent when used as a contact cement. Glue on two surfaces, let it get tacky & it's permanent. Use it on only one surface & it's removable(with encouragement!).

I do not know Pliobond, but I know other rubber cements (contact cements).
The idea of applying at both surfaces and let dry a bit is only to yield immediate tack once pressed together. A single-layer, applied between both surfaces still wet, once the solvent evaporated is as strong as a former double-layer.

Fin · Jun 15, 2018

I did quite a bit of research into leatherette glue a couple of years ago, apparently Colall Rubbercement is very close to the glue most manufacturers used, and is what some camera repairers also use

http://www.collall.nl/en/products/glue-and-varnish/collall-photo-glue

I haven't actually used it yet, but this thread has reminded me that I have a 120 back that needs all the leatherette re-gluing so I'll try right now and report back shortly!

guangong · Jun 15, 2018

A hearty “Thank You!” To everyone who contributed a suggestion to my slippery leatherette. Right now leatherette is firmly adhering to film back. Perhaps slipping related to temperature, who knows. Next time it starts to slip off I’ll remove it and apply one of the solutions listed above.
Does any repair of Hasselblad film back require access to anything under leatherette or does it simply serve as a nonslip surface (and aesthetic match to camera body).

Sirius Glass · Jun 15, 2018

guangong said:
Does any repair of Hasselblad film back require access to anything under leatherette or does it simply serve as a nonslip surface (and aesthetic match to camera body).

Yes. Also look into replacing all the covers with the color kits which come in black, gray, blue [my favorite], yellow and red.

http://cameraleather.com/hasselblad/

AgX · Jun 15, 2018

guangong said:
A hearty “Thank You!” To everyone who contributed a suggestion to my slippery leatherette. Right now leatherette is firmly adhering to film back. Perhaps slipping related to temperature, who knows.

Some adhesives emploid at adhesive tapes deteriorated to dope. Something like that must have happend in your case.

Theo Sulphate · Aug 10, 2018

John Koehrer said:
Pliobond is permanent when used as a contact cement. Glue on two surfaces, let it get tacky & it's permanent. Use it on only one surface & it's removable(with encouragement!).

So for light seals, mirror dampening, and leatherette, do you recommend using Pliobond on just one surface?

I was thinking of putting the Pliobond into a plastic bottle and using a nozzle at the end of that bottle so that the Pliobond will come out in a narrow stream - however I am worried that the nozzle would get plugged up and I wouldn't be able to clean it out. Any ideas?

sissysphoto · Aug 10, 2018

Look on ebay for Weblock tn 25 tape from a guy in Gastonia NC. I talked that guy into breaking up the carton.

John Koehrer · Aug 12, 2018

Theo Sulphate said:
So for light seals, mirror dampening, and leatherette, do you recommend using Pliobond on just one surface?

I was thinking of putting the Pliobond into a plastic bottle and using a nozzle at the end of that bottle so that the Pliobond will come out in a narrow stream - however I am worried that the nozzle would get plugged up and I wouldn't be able to clean it out. Any ideas?

ACE is the place........With the nozzle, plan on replacing it pretty frequently or possibly putting it in Acetone as soon as you're done with an application.
Don't know if Ace carries the tube but they do or can get it. I've used small syringes with plastic tips but they still clog.

With the bottle it has a brush inside it and if the glue is spread on the surface of the rubber is works OK. With that, I wouldn't use anywhere
near the mirror, rubber cement might be a better choice but never used it.
I just use a double face tape.

Hasselblad leatherette glue

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