Hasselblad heartbreak

imyself · Oct 8, 2015

http://photo.net/mobile/forums/mobile-fetch-msg?msg_id=00dOqd

I did a Google search for 'Hasselblad light baffle' and......
I've found the answer! The photo in the above link matches the flap in my camera. So the baffle has come loose. Where to from here? I contacted a Hasselblad repair technician in Holland and his quote was reasonable but the freight costs from New Zealand and back are extortionate (sadly, it's a fact of life of us antipodeans).
I might just have to bite the bullet, though
Thanks again everyone!
Adam

bdial · Oct 8, 2015

On the inside view it looks a little like the dark slide light trap.
If it is the same piece of stuff that was inside and is now outside, what happens if you try and pull it out?

imyself · Oct 8, 2015

bdial said:
On the inside view it looks a little like the dark slide light trap.
If it is the same piece of stuff that was inside and is now outside, what happens if you try and pull it out?

I'll pull it out when I get home. I have two frames left on the current roll of film in the back, I'll expose both and see what happens without the light baffle (q.v. the link on my last post)
Adam

mitrajoon · Oct 8, 2015

Sounds like you are close to resolving this yourself, but if not, you might want to check shipping costs to Hasselblad USA in New Jersey. They have worked on my 203. In fact, you can call them and talk with Dennis about the issue. If you email him a photo, maybe he can provide some guidance.

Smudger · Oct 8, 2015

I believe that is part of the light baffle in your magazine back. They snap at the bend and the darkslide pushes out the broken piece. A 5 minute replacement. Check the mag with a bright light.

itsdoable · Oct 8, 2015

Hi Adam,

The item on your shutter curtain is part of the light baffle between the mirror and the camera body at the base of the mirror hinge that has broken off. The darker strip is a flexible material that bends so the baffle can move with the mirror, as the base of the baffle is attached to the metal frame, just above the shutter curtains - it has broken due to flexing. The last time I bought the part, it was $42.40 US plus shipping (from NJ), which is a lot for a plastic strip. It is attached to the metal frame above the shutter curtains inside the mirror box by double sided tape.

The link you mentioned above from Photo.net contains my reply to Kat, who also experienced the same issue.

I would remove the plastic strip before it causes any damage to the shutter mechanism, as it is now a loose foreign object bouncing around when the shutter moves. Just pull it out carefully.

There will remain a strip that is double side taped to the top of the shutter frame inside the mirror box, you should be able to see the ragged edge of the plastic flex that broke, matching the loose piece in the picture. That will have to be removed before you install a replacement.

As I said in the other post, you can safely shoot without this baffle, I did for a year. The baffle primarily prevents light coming in from the viewscreen and lens getting in behind the mirror and affecting the meter readings.

Cheers, Tom

Thomas Bertilsson · Oct 8, 2015

See if you can get hold of David Knapman in Sweden. He worked for Hasselblad and has a good career making repair work solo these days. He might work on the 203 for you. I've lost his contact info, but it shouldn't be too hard to find.
Try calling +46-31-919403

imyself said:
http://photo.net/mobile/forums/mobile-fetch-msg?msg_id=00dOqd

I did a Google search for 'Hasselblad light baffle' and......
I've found the answer! The photo in the above link matches the flap in my camera. So the baffle has come loose. Where to from here? I contacted a Hasselblad repair technician in Holland and his quote was reasonable but the freight costs from New Zealand and back are extortionate (sadly, it's a fact of life of us antipodeans).
I might just have to bite the bullet, though
Thanks again everyone!
Adam

imyself · Oct 9, 2015

itsdoable said:
Hi Adam,

The item on your shutter curtain is part of the light baffle between the mirror and the camera body at the base of the mirror hinge that has broken off. The darker strip is a flexible material that bends so the baffle can move with the mirror, as the base of the baffle is attached to the metal frame, just above the shutter curtains - it has broken due to flexing. The last time I bought the part, it was $42.40 US plus shipping (from NJ), which is a lot for a plastic strip. It is attached to the metal frame above the shutter curtains inside the mirror box by double sided tape.

The link you mentioned above from Photo.net contains my reply to Kat, who also experienced the same issue.

I would remove the plastic strip before it causes any damage to the shutter mechanism, as it is now a loose foreign object bouncing around when the shutter moves. Just pull it out carefully.

There will remain a strip that is double side taped to the top of the shutter frame inside the mirror box, you should be able to see the ragged edge of the plastic flex that broke, matching the loose piece in the picture. That will have to be removed before you install a replacement.

As I said in the other post, you can safely shoot without this baffle, I did for a year. The baffle primarily prevents light coming in from the viewscreen and lens getting in behind the mirror and affecting the meter readings.

Cheers, Tom

Hi Tom,
You're right on the money! Your reply to the other 203 FE user on photo.net matched my observations precisely. When I got home, I plucked the strip of rubber from between the shutter curtains and it's an exact match with the light baffle photo. I took my camera outside and checked it's metering with my Sekonic meter and it metered, as always, flawlessly. Many thanks, Tom!
I've got the 45° finder but never use it as it detracts from the simplicity of the body + WLF setup. I mention this as you stated that the WLF might let in more light than the accessory finder and thus interfere with the light metering function. Time will tell. My supreme frustration with my Mamiya 6 is it's propensity to underexpose, even when I shield the light meter window. My 203 FE meters predictably and precisely, time and time again.
Adam

250swb · Oct 9, 2015

I'd pull it off and keep shooting, it may simply be a piece of tape used during assembly, or a light baffle, but either way if it fell off so easily it can't be difficult to put it back on again.

Edit, sorry I just saw that Tom in post #31 sorted it out, I should read the last post more often!

Steve

imyself · Oct 9, 2015

UPDATE

I received a reply from a Hasselblad technician regarding the detached light baffle. He said, as Tom did, that this flap is not absolutely essential and its purpose is to prevent light leak while the mirror is up. Interestingly, he said that Hasselblad later modified its cameras so as to use shutter curtain material instead of the original rubber material when manufacturing the light baffle, because the shutter curtain material is more flexible.

itsdoable · Oct 9, 2015

imyself said:
I received a reply from a Hasselblad technician regarding the detached light baffle. He said, as Tom did, that this flap is not absolutely essential and its purpose is to prevent light leak while the mirror is up. Interestingly, he said that Hasselblad later modified its cameras so as to use shutter curtain material instead of the original rubber material when manufacturing the light baffle, because the shutter curtain material is more flexible.

I tested mine with the mirror up and there was pretty minimal leakage at the edge of the mirror where the light baffle would be, but I did not do any long exposure tests on this camera, I prefer to use the mechanical 500, or the older 2000 series for that.

I also use the waist level finder all the time, the light meter is affected by light entering from the finder. However, it is pretty minimal when you have your eye to the magnifier, as your face blocks most of the light (the only way you can see the meter readings with the WLF anyways). But if you view from a distance for composing, the meter is way off. In manual mode, this is not a problem, but if you use the AE mode (which is what this bode was designed to do well), you have to use the AE lock or you will underexposure. Unlike the Rollei's, there is no compensation sensor reading the light from the viewfinder.

imyself · Oct 9, 2015

Thanks for the AE lock tip, I'll use it from now on. I find that I almost always use the focus aid on the WLF because I don't feel absolutely confident focusing straight off the WLF glass plate. That, and my enormous head, should create a solar eclipse effect
Adam

imyself · Oct 9, 2015

Now that we have our diagnosis, I hope this thread might be of use to others with the same problem. So I've attached a couple of pictures of the mirror light seal for future reference. I'm not sure if this light seal is specific to the 203 FE or if it also features in the rest of the V series. Thanks again everyone for all your help. Ultimately, I'll get the seal replaced by a Hasselblad technician.
Adam

itsdoable · Oct 12, 2015

For future reference, here is the complete (broken) part removed from the camera:

This is the last mirror baffle that I replaced (unfortunately I did not take a picture of the replacement before installing it).

The flap is flexible plastic.

The angled piece is metal, the rusty looking stains are the remains of the adhesive that attached it to the top of the shutter frame in the body.

A flexible foamy material attached the 2 pieces, which is what failed.

The new replacement one was more flexy (less stiff at the hinge) so it probably had the new shutter material as mentioned by Adam.

Here is how the light baffle looks when it is installed.

Andrew K · Oct 12, 2015

does the camera need to be dismantled to fit the replacement part, or do you insert the part through the back of the camera witht he shutter set to B?

itsdoable · Oct 14, 2015

Andrew K said:
does the camera need to be dismantled to fit the replacement part, or do you insert the part through the back of the camera witht he shutter set to B?

I was able to install the new baffle without dismantling the mirror box. The shutter can be set to remain open by triggering the shutter and removing the battery as long as it is not in "C" mode. Cleaning the adhesive and aligning the new baffle is a little finicky this way, but doable.

rawhead · Apr 5, 2016

I had this happen to me... a year ago, and I kept on shooting without knowing this for a year. When I finally got around to developing the dozen or so rolls I'd shot in the mean time, this piece was in pretty much all of the frames :LOL: Fortunately it was toward the edge so I could salvage a 6x4.5 image from all the frames. Just contacted Hasselblad Bron to ask for a replacement baffle.

Douglas Fairbank · Apr 6, 2016

I have just read this thread and I am very impressed with all the support you guys have given each other. I have retired from Hasselblad repairs now but you are thinking right. I hope you can get the parts. They can be fitted without dismantling the camera! Just in case the parts cannot be got, keep the broken parts and see if you can replace the flexible material with a thin rubber or plastic, good luck.

rawhead · May 23, 2016

Hi, does anyone have the part number for this baffle? I contacted Hasselblad Bron. for the replacement part, but they won't take any orders without a part number...

[EDIT] Never mind, found it here (http://photo.net/mobile/forums/mobile-fetch-msg?msg_id=00dOqd)

FYI, the part number is: 105 133 "Light seal foil", according to the thread.

GarageBoy · May 25, 2016

And that's why I love this forum
My dad's 2000fc/M lost 1sec as a usable shutter speed... it just locks open.
The 200 series is more reliable
Also, it was the 500 series that earned hasselblad the reliability reputation

itsdoable · May 25, 2016

Screen capture from page 42 and 43 of the 203-205 service manual....

Hasselblad heartbreak

imyself

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imyself

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Smudger

itsdoable

Thomas Bertilsson

imyself

250swb

imyself

itsdoable

imyself

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