Hasselblad Focusing Tips/Tricks

[nickandre]

Anyone have tips for accurately and reliably focusing a Hasselblad with some of these "very shallow depth of field" lenses for portraits? Do people have a shooting workflow they use or methods for using the focusing aid? I have the Acute Matte D focusing screen with the split prism + crackle pattern.

I have been using the focusing aid over the eyelashes and trying to minimize my recomposition (/breathing) that I do after focusing. My understanding is that with shallow enough depth of field you can introduce focus error by rotating the camera (and thus the focal plane) after focusing. I think this means, for example, that if I was going to rotate the camera down (to move a face up) after focusing that I would want to err on the near side when doing my focusing.

The percentage of in-focus shots is increasing but I'm still missing even with quite a bit of attention paid to the focusing step. Wondering if there are any tricks or this is just a "sacrifice a number of rolls of out-of-focus frames to the Hasselblad gods" and practice thing.

 

[MattKing]

Props can help.
This self portrait was made by first focusing on the lens barrel of the camera pictured, and then moving the subject (me) to the same plane as the lens barrel:

 

[Pieter12]

Are you sure it's focus and not blur from camera movement? A medium format camera really should be on a tripod with a large aperture setting and the large negative isn't very forgiving of motion-induced blur.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I move the focus back and forth quickly to focus the Hasselblad. I recommend that you find the Accumat D screen that works for you and that you use a tripod for what you are doing. I shoot hand held and use ISO 400 film with a PME prisms. Use what works for you.

 

[Light Capture]

For slow-but-precise focusing I find both focusing aids (split+microprism) to be a hindrance rather than an aid. The AcuteMatteD screen itself allows you to see how person's facial features begin to "sparkle" within a narrow band of DOF, assuming you're using a fitting diopter and there's enough light.

The focusing aids work better for quicker focusing when shooting environmental portraits or architecture where shallow DOF with focus precision are not required, and there's abundance of straight lines or complex patterns for these aids to work with.

This probably depends on which viewfinder you're using. My experience above is only true for the WLF with a loupe. When using a 45-degree prism finder, I found focusing aids to become more effective, and the screen itself - less useful.

Anyway, this topic is somewhat close to my heart, as I went from "WTF this is awful" Hasselblad focusing experience (initially) to designating it as the most precise focusing camera I currently own. The difference was in understanding how AcuteMatte works: it shows you a blurry image as sharper than it truly is, so instead of energetic focus twists combined with looking for sharp/blurry as you'd normally do with most ground glass equipped cameras, you need to slow down and look for "sparkles". This reminds me of a manual focus assist on some digital cameras, except it's far more subtle.

+1

In addition to this, using split screen and recompose will actually reduce focus accuracy. Split screen is not that accurate on minimum focusing distance.
Newer prism and any of chimney finders will increase focus accuracy significantly.
Sparkle in Acute Matte D screen helps but with proper viewfinder and magnification I didn't find much difference in focusing accuracy between oldest 500C built in screens and the latest Acute Matte D screens.

Camera focus needs to be calibrated. Longer portrait lenses have plus/minus of 1-2 cm of DOF wide open at MFD. Sharpness and contrast of these Zeiss lenses makes misses even more visible.
If camera wasn't serviced in long time foam under the mirror that acts as a spring to push mirror against upper frame for repeatability will be bad. When this foam is gone. Mirror will have significant travel in the frame causing random focusing performance.
This doesn't apply to 501CM, 503CW, 2000/200 series and 500ELX and newer motorized bodies.

 

[btaylor]

A couple of thoughts- are you absolutely sure the screen and focal plane distances are the same? A mirror or screen that is slightly out of position will lead to focus errors. I was having focus issues until I had mine serviced.
Second, you mention “rotating the camera”- I assume you mean what is typically called a tilt- adjusting the vertical angle of view up or down via the tripod head. Yes, in critical focus situations that can introduce some error. One solution is to use a tripod with a center column, focus on the eye on the center of the focus screen, then lower the camera for the composition.

 

[nickandre]

Forgot to mention something: if you're new to Hasselbad, make sure you're loading your film properly. Coming from Mamiya, I just assumed that Hasselblad backs work the same, and kept loading film over the "rail" (instead of slotting it under, as in picture 4 on this diagram). This led to film not perfectly pressed against the pressure plate on one side, and I thought I had focus issues for a while...

wow you make me feel like an idiot. Thanks for that XD I will try that moving forward. I was wondering why the backing tended to catch as I inserted it... that should substantially effect the left side of the finished images, right?

The camera was serviced last year with a full overhaul in France (I made sure to get the receipt for it, not cheap ). My assumption is (due to the erratic nature of the error) that it is due to my ineptitude and the overall difficulty of focusing a 110 f2 handheld at closer distances (I think breathing is enough to throw it off, just the level of precision required is high). The depth of field being so shallow which is very visible with these sharp lenses which seems to annoy me more than it annoys other people (people say "wow what a sharp photo" and I'm like "I missed the focus by 3mm, hrmdrmmm").

Shooting a 110 f2 wide open my shutter speed is usually 1/500-2000 for most of the work I'm doing and I try not to let it get much lower. I have been using the standard chimney finder with the magnifying glass to focus with the aid; I tried a prism but the lower magnification was a little of-putting. I shot a couple of focusing tests earlier this week to see if I could detect any error in the focus calibration and I don't see anything too obvious (although in hindsight I should have used a tripod, can try that this week). It is the same screen that the camera was overhauled with last year (Acute Matte D double notch with the split prism and dot pattern). I've considered dropping in ye olde ground glass focusing screen to compare.

In the interest of not wasting server space here's an example album off Google Photos.

For example in this photo I think there is a slight error to the near side. I suppose I should probably repeat this focus test with a tripod and triple check due to the depth of field or try with a focusing pattern. This one seems pretty close to dead on with perhaps a slight error to the near side (noting how the pant legs seem a bit sharper near the bottom of the frame). I think that level of error can be easily introduced recomposing or breathing. (I think the H4 introduced a feature to correct focusing error using an gyro when you rotate the camera for this exact reason.)

This one here is shot at minimum focusing distance on the left mushroom although being handheld it was a bit of an exercise to get it into the DoF.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I recommend that you get the camera adjusted by a Hasselblad repair man or woman.

 

[nickandre]

Let me set up a focusing test rig and give this a shot with some focusing charts. It would be rather annoying if this was just calibrated and I have to send it out again...

I'm wondering if some of this is my technique (i.e. I typically work into the focusing distance in a particular direction and I'm having trouble discerning "ideal focus" on the acute matte screen). There are plenty of shots where I've made worse focusing errors than these.

 

[BrianShaw]

You might want to consider that it’s not the equipment but your application. F/2 wide-open and hand-held, combined with a high degree of critical analysis, could be the problem. You’re in an extreme situation and that may be the source of frustration. Use a tripod and/or “settle” for some DOF before deciding that either your equipment is at fault or you’re a failure.

 

[Grim Tuesday]

Was only the camera serviced or was the back you are currently using and the lens as well? All of them must be to have proper alignment to get sharp pictures (that are sharp where you expect them). An uncalibrated back could be your problem, because pictures would appear sharp on the screen but be slightly off on the film.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Was only the camera serviced or was the back you are currently using and the lens as well? All of them must be to have proper alignment to get sharp pictures (that are sharp where you expect them). An uncalibrated back could be your problem, because pictures would appear sharp on the screen but be slightly off on the film.

Things that a technician checks:

• Is the body square in the jig? Sometimes bodies are distorted and that need to be correct.
• Is the mirror sitting in the proper place?
• Is the screen properly installed and in the right place?

There are many things that go into a proper CLA. This just touches for focus issues. Why have a high quality camera when the camera is not properly calibrated and maintained? If not, a Holga will do the job.

 

[itsdoable]

...Shooting a 110 f2 wide open ...

The 110 f/2 is quite demanding of the camera's precision, more so than all the other lenses. I had an aftermarket screen that worked fine on the other lenses (a Brightscreen, which was very nice for manual focusing), but it was back focusing on all the 110 images, just enough to soften the eyes. Switching to a Acute Matte 42170 resolved that. When hand holding, the time between when you see the image in focus and the shutter opens is enough for the thin focus plane to wander off, so good technique is required. Do your focus tests with a tripod and a proper planar target and a sloped scale.

 

[RoboRepublic]

A couple of thoughts- are you absolutely sure the screen and focal plane distances are the same? A mirror or screen that is slightly out of position will lead to focus errors. I was having focus issues until I had mine serviced.
Second, you mention “rotating the camera”- I assume you mean what is typically called a tilt- adjusting the vertical angle of view up or down via the tripod head. Yes, in critical focus situations that can introduce some error. One solution is to use a tripod with a center column, focus on the eye on the center of the focus screen, then lower the camera for the composition.

Another point to be made here: Ensure your acumatte screen is the right way up, when I got mine, someone had flipped the orientation around, i didn't have the best focus during the first few rolls.
Also the microprism collar around the split is a complete hinderance. As @Sirius Glass has already mentioned focus breathing, with a bit of practice, will also improve your hand/eye coordination.

 

[nickandre]

Sorry for the exceptionally long post. My conclusions:

1. Probably good move to get the whole kit CLA'd again.
2. Probably need to work on my technique and focusing combo (e.g. which focusing aids, prism vs WLF)
3. Some of this error is definitely mine, focusing tests suggest the possibility that focus is slightly front.
4. I should probably note that I have myopia, though I usually shoot with contacts in or glasses. Would be cool to find a -3 diopter for the WLF or prism.

Was only the camera serviced or was the back you are currently using and the lens as well? All of them must be to have proper alignment to get sharp pictures (that are sharp where you expect them). An uncalibrated back could be your problem, because pictures would appear sharp on the screen but be slightly off on the film.

I have the receipt from Hasselblad service center for a full overhaul of the camera. The back, camera, and AMD screen that I did the focusing tests with were overhauled together in 2019 and sat in the factory until I received it this year. I suppose I should reach out to Hasselblad service and see what they say -- if there was an error will they stand behind the service?

A few service questions:

1. In the US do people recommend I go with the factory service on the 200 series or is there a good independent shop? Ideally I'd like a reasonable turnaround.
2. I assume the whole kit needs to go together, right? Can they match two screens? Will they calibrate with the lens?

I ran focusing tests last night. Frames:

1. AMD: with split prism. Seems pretty close, perhaps near (sorry the paper is askew, focused in the center)
2. AMD: Using microprisms, towards the front side of what looked "in focus" - seems garbage
3. AMD: Using microprisms, towards the back side of what looked "in focus" - also seems garbage
4. AMD: Using the screen, perhaps near but close
5. AMD: Split prism on the line, really near
6. AMD: Using microprism over the "lake" text. Seems just about dead on.
7. AMD: microprism on the 6 on the ruler. Quite close, tad near.
8. AMD: microprism over the reflection on the speaker. Seems dead on.
9. GG: Switched to ground glass screen, dot pattern on 6, seems quite close but a tad near
10. GG: Ground glass (best I could), seems dead on.
11. GG: on the right side of the brick divet dead center.
12. AMD: right side of brick divet

Notes:

• It's hard for me to determine how much of this is my error versus calibration. It would appear there may be a small calibration issue to the front.
• I think the suggestion that the focusing aids aren't always good for precision focus may be on the right track.
• GG seems closer, not sure if that's just due to my finding it easier to use.
• AMD feels like it exaggerates DoF (see cell phone shot). I think I need to work on using the AMD.

You might want to consider that it’s not the equipment but your application. F/2 wide-open and hand-held, combined with a high degree of critical analysis, could be the problem. You’re in an extreme situation and that may be the source of frustration. Use a tripod and/or “settle” for some DOF before deciding that either your equipment is at fault or you’re a failure.

I will master the art of the 110 f2 handheld, just you see

Another point to be made here: Ensure your acumatte screen is the right way up, when I got mine, someone had flipped the orientation around, i didn't have the best focus during the first few rolls.
Also the microprism collar around the split is a complete hinderance. As @Sirius Glass has already mentioned focus breathing, with a bit of practice, will also improve your hand/eye coordination.

Which side is "up?" I think I may need to revisit relying on the microprism focusing aid in the WLF for my photos. I feel like I pull the focus back and fourth and have trouble figuring out what's "right."

I used to think so too when using WLF, but strangely it becomes more effective at lower magnification of a 45-degree prism finder (PME). I have two AcuteMatteD screens: one slipt+grid, and another with split+microprisms, so I use the former with the WLF, and the latter with the PME finder.

Yeah I've been a bit frustrated with the microprism on the WLF. It seems to not be very precise. Do you use the split prism on the WLF or rely on the screen? Is WLF plus no focus aid a popular strategy?

 

[Sirius Glass]

I prefer ground glass to split prisms or micro prisms especially with smaller aperture lenses or in dim light.

 

[warden]

Anyone have tips for accurately and reliably focusing a Hasselblad with some of these "very shallow depth of field" lenses for portraits? Do people have a shooting workflow they use or methods for using the focusing aid? I have the Acute Matte D focusing screen with the split prism + crackle pattern.

I have been using the focusing aid over the eyelashes and trying to minimize my recomposition (/breathing) that I do after focusing. My understanding is that with shallow enough depth of field you can introduce focus error by rotating the camera (and thus the focal plane) after focusing. I think this means, for example, that if I was going to rotate the camera down (to move a face up) after focusing that I would want to err on the near side when doing my focusing.

The percentage of in-focus shots is increasing but I'm still missing even with quite a bit of attention paid to the focusing step. Wondering if there are any tricks or this is just a "sacrifice a number of rolls of out-of-focus frames to the Hasselblad gods" and practice thing.

Have you considered f/4?



I don't have advice for focusing but I did notice that my accuracy improved when I switched to using a 45-degree prism finder, although I don't know why that is.

 

[Arthurwg]

I prefer ground glass to split prisms or micro prisms especially with smaller aperture lenses or in dim light.

Which GG would that be?

 

[RoboRepublic]

Up is the side that has the double dimples facing your eye and not the mirror.

Sorry for the exceptionally long post. My conclusions:

1. Probably good move to get the whole kit CLA'd again.
2. Probably need to work on my technique and focusing combo (e.g. which focusing aids, prism vs WLF)
3. Some of this error is definitely mine, focusing tests suggest the possibility that focus is slightly front.
4. I should probably note that I have myopia, though I usually shoot with contacts in or glasses. Would be cool to find a -3 diopter for the WLF or prism.

I have the receipt from Hasselblad service center for a full overhaul of the camera. The back, camera, and AMD screen that I did the focusing tests with were overhauled together in 2019 and sat in the factory until I received it this year. I suppose I should reach out to Hasselblad service and see what they say -- if there was an error will they stand behind the service?

A few service questions:

1. In the US do people recommend I go with the factory service on the 200 series or is there a good independent shop? Ideally I'd like a reasonable turnaround.
2. I assume the whole kit needs to go together, right? Can they match two screens? Will they calibrate with the lens?

I ran focusing tests last night. Frames:

1. AMD: with split prism. Seems pretty close, perhaps near (sorry the paper is askew, focused in the center)
2. AMD: Using microprisms, towards the front side of what looked "in focus" - seems garbage
3. AMD: Using microprisms, towards the back side of what looked "in focus" - also seems garbage
4. AMD: Using the screen, perhaps near but close
5. AMD: Split prism on the line, really near
6. AMD: Using microprism over the "lake" text. Seems just about dead on.
7. AMD: microprism on the 6 on the ruler. Quite close, tad near.
8. AMD: microprism over the reflection on the speaker. Seems dead on.
9. GG: Switched to ground glass screen, dot pattern on 6, seems quite close but a tad near
10. GG: Ground glass (best I could), seems dead on.
11. GG: on the right side of the brick divet dead center.
12. AMD: right side of brick divet

Notes:

• It's hard for me to determine how much of this is my error versus calibration. It would appear there may be a small calibration issue to the front.
• I think the suggestion that the focusing aids aren't always good for precision focus may be on the right track.
• GG seems closer, not sure if that's just due to my finding it easier to use.
• AMD feels like it exaggerates DoF (see cell phone shot). I think I need to work on using the AMD.

I will master the art of the 110 f2 handheld, just you see



Which side is "up?" I think I may need to revisit relying on the microprism focusing aid in the WLF for my photos. I feel like I pull the focus back and fourth and have trouble figuring out what's "right."



Yeah I've been a bit frustrated with the microprism on the WLF. It seems to not be very precise. Do you use the split prism on the WLF or rely on the screen? Is WLF plus no focus aid a popular strategy?

 

[Sirius Glass]

Have you considered f/4?



I don't have advice for focusing but I did notice that my accuracy improved when I switched to using a 45-degree prism finder, although I don't know why that is.

Some Hasselblad lenses have a maximum aperture of f/5.6 or f/8.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Which GG would that be?

I use the view screen with the cross hairs.

 

[warden]

Some Hasselblad lenses have a maximum aperture of f/5.6 or f/8.

Yes.

just making a little joke, suggesting he stop down his lens from f/2 to f/4, which would be more forgiving.

 

[BrianShaw]

That’s not a joke... it’s a great recommendation!

 

[mshchem]

Forgot to mention something: if you're new to Hasselbad, make sure you're loading your film properly. Coming from Mamiya, I just assumed that Hasselblad backs work the same, and kept loading film over the "rail" (instead of slotting it under, as in picture 4 on this diagram). This led to film not perfectly pressed against the pressure plate on one side, and I thought I had focus issues for a while...

I've done that. I have a RZ system as well as Hasselblad. I know how to load both types, but I've had to take the take up reel off and reposition the film more than once. I love both setups

 

[Sirius Glass]

I've done that. I have a RZ system as well as Hasselblad. I know how to load both types, but I've had to take the take up reel off and reposition the film more than once. I love both setups