Hasselblad A24 film back for 120 film?

[Max Plotnikow]

Hi there;

I have recently acquired a 500C Hasselblad with a malfunctioning/damaged film back. Quick research appears to indicate that A24 film backs are plentyfull and relatively cheap, while A12 backs in good condition are considerably more expensive and hard to find.

Is it possible to load and shoot 120 film in 220 back, i.e., after the first 12 frames simply wind a few more frames and unload the film?

TIA. Max P.

 

[Kevin Caulfield]

Welcome to APUG. Yes I believe it is possible to use 120 in an A24 back. Others with more experience will comment I'm sure.

 

[jvo]

you might want to check out this current thread, as well (there was a url link here which no longer exists)

 

[Sirius Glass]

Welcome to APUG

If you put a roll of 120 film in a 220 film back, you will loose the last photograph. ===> You will only get 11 exposures per roll. Fix the 120 back and use the 220 as a door stop, as a library book mark or as a tire chock for a car.

 

[BorgeH]

Hi there;

I have recently acquired a 500C Hasselblad with a malfunctioning/damaged film back. Quick research appears to indicate that A24 film backs are plentyfull and relatively cheap, while A12 backs in good condition are considerably more expensive and hard to find.

Is it possible to load and shoot 120 film in 220 back, i.e., after the first 12 frames simply wind a few more frames and unload the film?

TIA. Max P.

What is wrong with the 120 back? In my experience it is usually two problems which are easily fixed. The most common problem is light leaks from the dark slide opening. It can easily be fixed, you will find information at: http://www.hasselbladhistorical.eu/Index/HTIndex.aspx

It is also simply to manufacture your own light seals from cloth or plastic packing material and a piece of discarded film.

The second most common problem with modern magazines is that when you load a film and wind the film it will not stop at the first number (1). This can also be easily be fixed in most cases with some few drops thin oil in the magzine openings and exercise. I have bought several magazines which the seller says is not working properly and got them working after some manipulations. My only mistake was a A16 magazine, if I wind it strongly it misses the stop. I guess it must have professional service and some part switched.

Some people say that you can use the 120 film in 220 backs and have 12 frames if you start earlier than the automatic stop. The distances between the frames is larger than with an 120 magazine, you can try for yourself with a discarded, wasted, 120 film. Fire some shoots and open the magazine at the 12th frame and see if it works.

 

[Sirius Glass]

The second most common problem with modern magazines is that when you load a film and wind the film it will not stop at the first number (1).

This problem is caused by the cone shaped pin not popping back up when the previous roll has been removed. Use compressed air to clean out dust and dirt, and then a little bit of lubricant.

 

[johnha]

I don't understand why (after going to the effort to buy/shoot a 'blad) you want to use the 'wrong' back (or the 'wrong' film in it). As a Mamiya 645 & Bronica SQ shooter I don't understand why finding something as mundane as a reliable 120RFH should be a particular problem.

 

[Sirius Glass]

The OP has bought a Hasselblad and wants to use it. He does not have a working 120 film back so he wants to make do with a 220 film back.

 

[Max Plotnikow]

The OP has bought a Hasselblad and wants to use it. He does not have a working 120 film back so he wants to make do with a 220 film back.

Thanks, 99% correct.

I had an opportunity to buy this camera, apparently in working condition but with obviously faulty A12 back (including visible dent/misalignment), such that I don't even want to put it back on the body in its present state - it might or might not be beyond repair. I am very keen to test the camera and lens with a roll or two quickly, simply to decide what to do next. I do not want to spend eu200.- or so for a new A12 back, but I am willing to spend eu35.- for an A24 back. I can also easily get a couple of rolls of 120 film, but for the purpose at hand I'm not going to chase after some 220 film.

Thank you all for very useful comments.

 

[mitrajoon]

I've done this successfully using an E24 back. The trick is to a) wind the film to a slightly different point and b) be aware when you've exposed frame 12. Here is a link that explains this:

https://mraggett.wordpress.com/2013/03/28/120-film-in-hasselblad-220-magazine/

 

[mgb74]

Also, the OP is in Albania - at least according to his profile. Replacement items that may be easily found in some locations may not be as easily found where he is.

That said, you might want to see if you can find a less expensive "C" back in 120. Just make sure the little door (to view "start" mark) stays shut or is taped shut.

 

[hap]

two questions...can I use an A24 back on a 503cx.?
If I can do that (despite my camera black) could I assume that I could actually use 220 film rolls. there some product around these days.

thx
Hap

 

[Ai Print]

two questions...can I use an A24 back on a 503cx.?
If I can do that (despite my camera black) could I assume that I could actually use 220 film rolls. there some product around these days.

thx
Hap

Yes, you can use an A24 back on any Hasselblad V system body.

 

[blee1996]

One of the reason to use A24 instead of A12 is simply that the A24 is a fraction of the cost of A12.

I recently used 120 film in A24, starting slightly before the arrow, and I got almost 12 frames. The inter-frame spacing will get bigger and bigger from frame 1 to frame 12. The last frame is more like 6x5, and there is no extra space for the drying clip. So it is up to you to decide if this is for you.

 

[Hassasin]

One of the reason to use A24 instead of A12 is simply that the A24 is a fraction of the cost of A12.

This was the case long time ago, I've not seen an A24 at a price that A12 could not be had at. A12's V2 are routinely going for 150-175, sometimes less. BIN prices are not indicators of selling prices. And as far as "fraction" of the cost, we would have to move back many years when A12's could not sell for a 100.

 

[Hassasin]

T

Thanks, 99% correct.

I had an opportunity to buy this camera, apparently in working condition but with obviously faulty A12 back (including visible dent/misalignment), such that I don't even want to put it back on the body in its present state - it might or might not be beyond repair. I am very keen to test the camera and lens with a roll or two quickly, simply to decide what to do next. I do not want to spend eu200.- or so for a new A12 back, but I am willing to spend eu35.- for an A24 back. I can also easily get a couple of rolls of 120 film, but for the purpose at hand I'm not going to chase after some 220 film.

Thank you all for very useful comments.

That A24 for 35 EU was likely Kiev back, not Hasselblad. Even Hass' C backs (first version with peeper window in the back side, and similar looking to what Kiev ever made) are going for not much under 100 at the cheapest. And in all this, going the absolute cheapest is probably not the best way to think going forward as it is either very used up, in likely need of service, or in fact seized and not working at all (unless proven otherwise of course). While a back in good working condition can be had for well under 200$, once price drops below 100$ it's a suspect.

 

[guangong]

I used the backs with peep hole from my 1000F for decades on my 2000FCM before they died. Replaced with used A12 backs when prices dropped due to introduction of digital capture.

 

[Sirius Glass]

two questions...can I use an A24 back on a 503cx.?
If I can do that (despite my camera black) could I assume that I could actually use 220 film rolls. there some product around these days.

thx
Hap

Yes, you can, as you can use any other Hasselblad film back. The A24 back was designed for 220 film rolls, but some have used it for 120 film rolls, however than can cause the loss of one film frame.

 

[andyvan]

I don't understand why (after going to the effort to buy/shoot a 'blad) you want to use the 'wrong' back (or the 'wrong' film in it). As a Mamiya 645 & Bronica SQ shooter I don't understand why finding something as mundane as a reliable 120RFH should be a particular problem.

I am a 'blad' shooter (nothing to do with vampires{I'm NOT van Helsing!}), But the reason we conceive of this is retention of history, so we can recycle these, and still use them (from my beginner understanding of these backs, as soon as the 1st frame is done, the 'lock' disengages allowing pros to 'wind off' a film whenever they need to, so if.... after 12 on a 24 back, one should be able to just wind off and thats that, esp. if the format (6x6/6x4.5) is the SAME), so no spacing issues should be present, theoretically, that is what the question is about, CAN we, or is there focus issues (flatness of focus plane, due to no backing paper, ie: the design of the pressure plate). I have just got a 205Fcc and am querying the same thing, can a E24 take 120 to?, as one is on the second hand market, should I get one?

 

[eli griggs]

Half my magazines are A24 and I'm happy to load 120 in them, because they work.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Since there were never enough 220 film emulsions for me, 220 film often cost more than twice the cost of two 120 rolls and processing a roll of 220 film also cost more than twice one roll of 120 film, I never saw a reason to buy A24 backs for my Hasselblads.

 

[hap]

I looked sometime back....for A24 backs and use of 220. Sirius is serious. And that was I finally figured out. Not worth it.