Hasselblad A12 doesn't stop winding

[Ariston]

This camera is new to me. When I load the film and wind it, it doesn't stop on the first frame. Zm I doing something wrong?

I load it with the film under the guide, wind it until the arrow kimes up, the put the insert back in and lock it closed. I then wind the film, and it doesn't stop. Let me know if that is incorrect somehow. It is the back without a window.

 

[Kino]

Try reading this:
https://www.35mmc.com/19/01/2019/fu...m-backs-a12-and-others-by-arild-edvard-basmo/

 

[Ariston]

Wow, that looks like an incredibly well written article. I usually am afraid to tinker with clockwork items, but I may give it a go. Thanks!

 

[Sirius Glass]

This camera is new to me. When I load the film and wind it, it doesn't stop on the first frame. Zm I doing something wrong?

I load it with the film under the guide, wind it until the arrow kimes up, the put the insert back in and lock it closed. I then wind the film, and it doesn't stop. Let me know if that is incorrect somehow. It is the back without a window.

When I have had that happen, I take my film back to Samys and Mike the repairman makes an adjustment and sends me on my way happy.

 

[GLS]

I had this happen to one of my A12 backs, but the seller repaired it under guarantee. According to him it was due to a "broken spring which is attached to the link arm". I would send it in for repair.

 

[AndyH]

If you have basic camera repair skills, it's a fairly easy repair to make. The video on YouTube is very well done and outlines each step in detail. You will need a number of ball point pen springs to modify in order to work, but with luck, it's possible that your spring has just fallen out of its position.

However, you don't need to do it if you don't want to. Just be careful when you get to the point where the number is just starting to appear, and stop the second the white indicator snaps into position. You can test it with a roll of used or bad film with the darkslide out to confirm the exact point. I have one back I've been using but haven't gotten around to repairing, and it functions perfectly this way. Once the first exposure is set, the advance from the body will work just fine unless it also needs repair.

Andy

 

[Ariston]

If you have basic camera repair skills, it's a fairly easy repair to make. The video on YouTube is very well done and outlines each step in detail. You will need a number of ball point pen springs to modify in order to work, but with luck, it's possible that your spring has just fallen out of its position.

However, you don't need to do it if you don't want to. Just be careful when you get to the point where the number is just starting to appear, and stop the second the white indicator snaps into position. You can test it with a roll of used or bad film with the darkslide out to confirm the exact point. I have one back I've been using but haven't gotten around to repairing, and it functions perfectly this way. Once the first exposure is set, the advance from the body will work just fine unless it also needs repair.

Andy

Thanks - I went ahead and took it apart. The spring was in place and seemed to have plenty of tension. There was a washer missing that goes on the top gear before you replace the cover, but I don't think that was the issue. I oiled a few things lightly because the counter wheel did not seem to want to return to zero, and I think that was the problem.

When I put everything back together and put in a test roll, it worked. The pin that senses a new magazine is in (to reset the counter) seemed a bit finicky, but can be made to work, as long as I am mindful of it. I think I can work with it that way. The back works fine, otherwise.

This back was already pretty beaten up when I got it.

 

[AndyH]

Thanks - I went ahead and took it apart. The spring was in place and seemed to have plenty of tension. There was a washer missing that goes on the top gear before you replace the cover, but I don't think that was the issue. I oiled a few things lightly because the counter wheel did not seem to want to return to zero, and I think that was the problem.

When I put everything back together and put in a test roll, it worked. The pin that senses a new magazine is in (to reset the counter) seemed a bit finicky, but can be made to work, as long as I am mindful of it. I think I can work with it that way. The back works fine, otherwise.

This back was already pretty beaten up when I got it.

Glad it worked for you! With the price of A-12 backs creeping ever closer to $200, repairing the many semi-functional backs available on eBay and other sites is getting to be well worth the effort. I've read that A-24 backs can be used with regular 120 film, and they're even cheaper since 220 went out of production. I think I'm going to pick up one and give it a try.

Andy

 

[mshchem]

I had same problem. I have some old Kodak movie film cleaner, old, banned solvent. I put a couple of drops on the exposed gear. Worked it works great. I fixed a Copal shutter with the same stuff.

 

[John Galt]

I have several A12 backs and one of them has this issue. I Still use it. I simply observe when the 1st frame number one comes into view and stop winding there. You're welcome.

 

[Ariston]

I have several A12 backs and one of them has this issue. I Still use it. I simply observe when the 1st frame number one comes into view and stop winding there. You're welcome.

Hi John - Don't expect me to actually use common sense like that! My wife can confirm that I have no common sense.

Actually, the counter was not resetting. That pin wasn't doing its job at all. I've got it mostly working for now, though - thanks!

 

[Sirius Glass]

Hi John - Don't expect me to actually use common sense like that! My wife can confirm that I have no common sense.

Actually, the counter was not resetting. That pin wasn't doing its job at all. I've got it mostly working for now, though - thanks!

At Samys the Hasselblad repair man fixed in less than 15 minutes and did not charge for it. He also checked the frame spacing. Tough to beat those prices.

 

[Pieter12]

At Samys the Hasselblad repair man fixed in less than 15 minutes and did not charge for it. He also checked the frame spacing. Tough to beat those prices.

You must do a great deal of business with Samy's. Next time I need a Hasselblad repair, I'm going to ask you to come along!

 

[John Galt]

At Samys the Hasselblad repair man fixed in less than 15 minutes and did not charge for it. He also checked the frame spacing. Tough to beat those prices.

SG . . . where is this "Samys" thou dost speaketh of . . . ??

 

[Ariston]

At Samys the Hasselblad repair man fixed in less than 15 minutes and did not charge for it. He also checked the frame spacing. Tough to beat those prices.

That's a bit of a drive for me, so I'm not sure it would qualify as free. But I am glad you have a trusty repairman nearby. I am going to have to drive down into Atlanta to see what I can find. I hate going into town.

 

[Sirius Glass]

You must do a great deal of business with Samy's. Next time I need a Hasselblad repair, I'm going to ask you to come along!

Steve's Camera in Culver City does not seem to charge for quick or easy adjustments.

 

[Sirius Glass]

SG . . . where is this "Samys" thou dost speaketh of . . . ??

Los Angeles Store
431 S. Fairfax Ave.
Los Angeles, CA 90036

Telephone: 323-938-2420

Hours:
Mon-Fri: 9:30am-6:30pm; Sat: 10:00am-6:00pm; Sun: 11:00am-5:00pm
(Film & Rental Departments) Mon-Fri: 8:00am-6:30pm; Sat: 9:00am-6:00pm; Sun: 11:00am-5:00pm.
*Please Note: Our Rental and PRO Department(4th Floor) are closed on Sundays.

 

[Sirius Glass]

That's a bit of a drive for me, so I'm not sure it would qualify as free. But I am glad you have a trusty repairman nearby. I am going to have to drive down into Atlanta to see what I can find. I hate going into town.

Let me know when you swing by and I will make either a Martini or Hurricane for you.

 

[mshchem]

Another A12 type II back came into my possession with same problem, when starting a new roll, the counter didn't stop at 1. I pulled up the leatherette around the crank. Took out the 3 machine screws that hold the cover on. This exposes the clockwork of gears and levers that are so beautiful. I blew out the gears with some gentle compressed air, but it was clean. I used a bit of my movie film cleaner to no effect. The mechanism was dry. I found the pawl that clicks into a notch near the number 7 on the counter wheel. To the best of my knowledge this is what stops the counter at 1. I used Rem-Oil, lightweight machine oil and lubricated this little lever. This seems to have fixed it. I wouldn't be afraid to remove the cover, but actually repairing, removing parts isn't my cup of tea.

This makes 2 backs that I've got working with a bit of solvent and a couple drops of very light oil. These backs are from the 80's. But newer versions are hard to find that aren't nearly 20 years old.

This is the beauty of the Hasselblad system, you need to maintain them, but there's no integrated circuit, etc to completely kill the beast. Also if these, like a watch, require maintenance, there will be people who can make a living maintaining them.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Another A12 type II back came into my possession with same problem, when starting a new roll, the counter didn't stop at 1. I pulled up the leatherette around the crank. Took out the 3 machine screws that hold the cover on. This exposes the clockwork of gears and levers that are so beautiful. I blew out the gears with some gentle compressed air, but it was clean. I used a bit of my movie film cleaner to no effect. The mechanism was dry. I found the pawl that clicks into a notch near the number 7 on the counter wheel. To the best of my knowledge this is what stops the counter at 1. I used Rem-Oil, lightweight machine oil and lubricated this little lever. This seems to have fixed it. I wouldn't be afraid to remove the cover, but actually repairing, removing parts isn't my cup of tea.

This makes 2 backs that I've got working with a bit of solvent and a couple drops of very light oil. These backs are from the 80's. But newer versions are hard to find that aren't nearly 20 years old.

This is the beauty of the Hasselblad system, you need to maintain them, but there's no integrated circuit, etc to completely kill the beast. Also if these, like a watch, require maintenance, there will be people who can make a living maintaining them.

My Hasselblad repairman recommends that every three months: remove the back from the Hasselblad and wind-cock and then fire the every lens at 1 second ten to fifteen times [each, to be redundant, repetitive, and repeat myself]. I set my Mac computer and iPhone [actually setting one sets the other] to remind me 1 January, 1 April, 1 June and 1 September every year.

 

[mshchem]

My Hasselblad repairman recommends that every three months: remove the back from the Hasselblad and wind-cock and then fire the every lens at 1 second ten to fifteen times [each, to be redundant, repetitive, and repeat myself]. I set my Mac computer and iPhone [actually setting one sets the other] to remind me 1 January, 1 April, 1 June and 1 September every year.

Absolutely, I let a nice Ektar Commercial lens I spaced out, haven't used it in a couple years now the low end speeds are way slow.

 

[mshchem]

Another A12, this is a type IV. This winds and stops at 1, then doesn't move, the little red indicator clicks on. This is a newer 2001 back. I suspect that 15 years back, this stuff in many cases was just put away and left to sit. I bet that all that's needed is a little cleaning and lube. This is the point about a mechanical device it can be maintained. If this was a electronic back with a fancy display it would be junk.