Hasselblad 501CM Viewing Screens

[ted_smith]

Since owning my Blad 501CM, I have had troubles with the viewfinder, or more precisely, with my ability to get well focussed shots using it.

It has the standard viewing screen with the cross hair although it is the Acutte Matte D (from memory) style of glass which I think is a bit over average.

Anyway, the trouble is that even when I think the view looks in focus, when I get my results, I discover they are not quite in focus. Not always - sometimes they are bang on. Like the first photo that I have attached.

But often they are annoyingly soft so much so that an otherwise great photo is ruined. Like the second one I have attached.

I realise of course DOF plays a part in this, and in fairness, these were taken with the 120mm 'Macro' which as we know, can make a slight move of the subject result in bluriness if the f stop is rather wide, as was the case here (about f5 or something). You can see that the bronze statue which is only a few inches behind my kids is in focus but the kids are not. But when I looked through the finder, they looked to be in focus. Nevertheless, I have had similar issues with my 80mm.

So I'd like to ask what waist level view finders there are that can help me get better focus? My F5 of course has auto focus so it is not something I struggle with there. Years ago I used (and still have) an Olympus OM10 and the centre of that had a circle area that was split when out of focus and in line when focussed. Is there something like that for Hasselblad?

 

[RobC]

I think the 501CM had an enhanced viewing screen. I can't remeber exactly what it was called. I think the old type should work too but maybe you don't have the original fitted. Not sure that would make a difference anyway.

 

[Alan9940]

There are so many variables going on here IMO it's hard to say whether the focusing screen is the problem. Were these shots handheld? What was the film speed, shutter speed, aperture, and subject distance? You already realize that DOF can be an issue; I don't own the 120mm, but I do own a 100 and a 150 and I know that the range of sharp focus at what appears to be rather close focus distance, based on your attachments, is rather narrow. Focus on the eyes would have to be dead on.

Regarding different screens... The Acute Matte is the brightest one Hasselblad made; it's the one I use and I much prefer it over any prior screen; especially the standard screen as delivered with the camera. There are other screens, like the Maxwell, available too. The delicate balancing act with brighter screens is contrast vs brightness. Generally, as brightness goes up contrast goes down which can actually make it harder to focus the camera. For example, before the Acute Matte screen Hasselblad had the Bright Matte (less bright than AM) which I found to be extremely difficult to focus with. I was very hesitant to buy the Acute Matte when it became available, but as it turns out my eye seems to be tuned to this screen.

You may also wish to consider an eye-level finder such as the PM. This won't necessarily help you focus better, but it will eliminate stray light from hitting the focus screen which may lead to better focus for you.

Hope anything I've said here helps.

Best regards,
AlanH

 

[Slixtiesix]

How good is your eyesight? I´m a bit short sighted, -0.75 dpt, but installing a -1 magnifier in the waist level finder did do wonders. Not that I was unable to focus before, but the point of sharpness is much better discernible with the right correction.

 

[BrianShaw]

Are you hand-holding?
How slow was the shutter speed?
How open was the aperture?
Are you viewing the screen without the magnifier?

Any/all of these have enabled me to make blurry images with a Hasselblad.

 

[Jager]

To answer your question, yes, there is a version of the Acute Matte D screen with a split-image. Highly recommended.

That said, I'd echo the other comments here and suggest that the problem may very well be process oriented. Are you using the flip-down magnifier to verify focus? Even if you are, the act of dropping the camera 8-10" - presuming you've brought the camera to eye level to use the magnifier and verify focus, and then have moved the camera back down to waist level for final composition - at what appears to be a short subject distance, would probably be enough to move the plane of focus. And I'm guessing those kids weren't the most stationary subjects you've ever shot!

Handheld, used without pre-release, I consider the Hasselblad to only have three usable shutter speeds. And the last one is a stretch. The 120mm leans on that even more (versus the 80, or something shorter). So the questions about what your camera settings were come front and center.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I have a Acute Matte D screen with a central focusing spot and vertical and horizontal lines for lining up verticals and the horizon.

 

[ted_smith]

Jager - thanks for the terminoligy correction. I've managed to find a few references to them now, but finding one to buy seems troublesome. Amazon used to (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Focusing-Screen-Microprism-Split-Image-Rangefinder/dp/B0000BZLKT) but seemingly no longer do. FFordes.co.uk don't have one at the moment. One on eBay for whopping £150! (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hasselbla...sing-Screen-excellent-Condition-/361390294566). I wasn't expecting them to be that much.

So I'm a bit stuck currently.

You're all right of course about the variable factors you've all mentioned. And on this occasion it was perhaps more due to a slight DOF mis-calculation or a slight move backwards that caused it. But there are other occasions when I have just found focussing difficult and hoped to make it easier.

 

[ted_smith]

EDIT :

One on eBay for whopping £150! (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hasselbla...sing-Screen-excellent-Condition-/361390294566).

That's actually not even split image. It's the same as I have currently in my camera! (allbeit new)

 

[Alan9940]

One on eBay for whopping £150! (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hasselbla...sing-Screen-excellent-Condition-/361390294566). I wasn't expecting them to be that much.

Yep, they never were cheap even when I bought mine about 25 years ago.

Best regards,
AlanH

 

[ted_smith]

I think I'll just concentrate harder on my DOF calculations, stability, shutter speed etc!

And I don't use the little magnifier enough either. Thanks for mentioning that, Jager.

 

[BrianShaw]

Just a suggestion, of course... but you might want to start using that little magnifier. It makes a BIG difference.

Unless you are using a prism... and in that case please disregard.

 

[itsdoable]

... So I'd like to ask what waist level view finders there are that can help me get better focus? My F5 of course has auto focus so it is not something I struggle with there. Years ago I used (and still have) an Olympus OM10 and the centre of that had a circle area that was split when out of focus and in line when focussed. Is there something like that for Hasselblad?

First, check that the focus screen & mirror is registered correctly, lay a long ruler down, focus wide open on a mark using the magnifier and wide open aperture, and check the resulting image for correct focus. Your camera is probably fine, the older 500's tend to have the mirror pads dry out, resulting in a shift in focus on the screen.

Very few people are able to discern correct focus on a bare screen without a magnifier. Use the magnifier, or a smaller sized aperture if you cannot.

There is a chimney finder that is pretty good for waist level viewing and focusing, but I find the folding waist level's built in magnifier (with the correct dioptre for my eyes) dose a better job.

As others say, there are split image / micro prism focus aid screens, but a good one can cost more than the body. The plane acute matte D that you have is an excellent screen.

 

[Alan W]

I second the chimney finder-it took a little getting used to for me,but really helped my focusing accuracy.They can be had,in the U.S., for around $30 delivered,if you're patient.

 

[mike c]

Toke my 500CM to Sammys for Mike (there Hassie Certified and trained Tech.) to look at something, I mentioned that I had just installed an Accumatt screen, He put it in his Hasselblad Jig tool to check the aliment of the screen. He said that even the drop in screens some time need an adjustment.

 

[Xmas]

If you are shooting animated you need

Diopter maybe especially if the light is poor
Screen
Prism

And you need to sway and fire with finger on first pressure...

Some of the screens are unusable, the standard fixed 500c was better

If you don't load and immediately shoot all 12 at once you run into film memory/flatness risks.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

There are so many variables going on here IMO it's hard to say whether the focusing screen is the problem. Were these shots handheld? What was the film speed, shutter speed, aperture, and subject distance? You already realize that DOF can be an issue; I don't own the 120mm, but I do own a 100 and a 150 and I know that the range of sharp focus at what appears to be rather close focus distance, based on your attachments, is rather narrow. Focus on the eyes would have to be dead on.

Regarding different screens... The Acute Matte is the brightest one Hasselblad made; it's the one I use and I much prefer it over any prior screen; especially the standard screen as delivered with the camera. There are other screens, like the Maxwell, available too. The delicate balancing act with brighter screens is contrast vs brightness. Generally, as brightness goes up contrast goes down which can actually make it harder to focus the camera. For example, before the Acute Matte screen Hasselblad had the Bright Matte (less bright than AM) which I found to be extremely difficult to focus with. I was very hesitant to buy the Acute Matte when it became available, but as it turns out my eye seems to be tuned to this screen.

You may also wish to consider an eye-level finder such as the PM. This won't necessarily help you focus better, but it will eliminate stray light from hitting the focus screen which may lead to better focus for you.

Hope anything I've said here helps.

Best regards,
AlanH

I own a few 501cs and always had similar focusing problems with them in spite of the bright screen.that all went away once I got a split image screen;the Hasselblad version is expensive but excellent;a much cheapr Chinese screen was much dimmer but worked alright.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Toke my 500CM to Sammys for Mike (there Hassie Certified and trained Tech.) to look at something, I mentioned that I had just installed an Accumatt screen, He put it in his Hasselblad Jig tool to check the aliment of the screen. He said that even the drop in screens some time need an adjustment.

I have seen Mike work wonders with his jig and tools on Hasselblads that were really sick. Those Hasselblads left Samys happy and healthy again.