Hasselblad 501cm for Beginner - Mirror image in viewfinder?

[MKCimage]

Hey all,

I'm a photographer thats shot the entirety of profession in digital...and am now diving into analog (cue scary music).
I just bought a Hasselblad 501CM, A12, 80mm, acute matte setup and I've been struck by fact that everything through waist-level viewfinder is laterally the opposite (i.e. I need to move the camera right to correct what looks like in viewfinder I need to move left to cover). I can't even work out how to really move yet....

First question is if this is normal?
If so, then is there a way to change it (option/tweak on camera? purchase something?).


Really appreciate any and all thoughts.

Cheers,

 

[paul_c5x4]

First question is if this is normal?
If so, then is there a way to change it (option/tweak on camera? purchase something?).

Yup, perfectly normal. You can either shift your perspective, or invest in a prism viewfinder that flips the image.

Wait until you try a large format camera - That one will turn your world upside down


P.S. Welcome to the forum.

 

[MKCimage]

Many thanks, Paul. Very much appreciate it.
This thing is certainly helping me flip perspective. Will look forward to the the large format foray.

Any any advice on a particularly solid prism viewfinder if head that way?

 

[Karl K]

Non-metered HC prisms are eye-level.
Non-metered NC prisms are chest-level.
Using a prism on the 'Blad changes the entire experience, IMHO.
You may feel more comfortable with the HC because it's similar to a DSLR type of view.
Make sure that there are no chips, cracks, and particularly, no separation in the prism glass before you pay.

 

[RobC]

PM45 non metered prism finder

 

[Sirius Glass]

Non-metered HC prisms are eye-level.
Non-metered NC prisms are chest-level.
Using a prism on the 'Blad changes the entire experience, IMHO.
You may feel more comfortable with the HC because it's similar to a DSLR type of view.
Make sure that there are no chips, cracks, and particularly, no separation in the prism glass before you pay.

I always use the 45 degree PME [prism with a light meter] for the Hasselblad 503 CX. The waist level view finder is carried in the camera back pack for in case I even need it and for ballast. I have never use the waist level finder. Before I had a Mamiya C330 that I used with a Porroprism. I never liked the left-right reversal.

 

[Dr Croubie]

You can also get a Kiev 45-degree TTL/spot prism, like this one, they'll fit a hassy. Although I didn't pay 1/4 of that price, they normally go for $50 or so, well less than a genuine hassy version.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I have picked up a jet fighter flying past the crowd at an air show with the 45 degree prism on a Hasselblad with the same degree of ease as a 90 degree prism would be. Once the subject is in the view finder the tracking is the same. Finding the subject is the same with both prisms. YMMV

 

[Sirius Glass]

Now we have gotten to the root cause of the problem.

 

[frank]

I prefer the 45 degree finder. It feels like the camera is more stable held a bit lower than a 90 finder would permit. I can tuck my arms/elbows against my chest when using the 45. (I have an eye level 90 finder on my Rolleiflex 6003.)

 

[Alan Gales]

I love waist level finders on medium format cameras. Use it for a while and you may too. Like mentioned earlier, large format is also upside down. You get used to it all and don't think anything of it.

Now menus on digital cameras are what's confusing!

 

[Sirius Glass]

I prefer the 45 degree finder. It feels like the camera is more stable held a bit lower than a 90 finder would permit. I can tuck my arms/elbows against my chest when using the 45. (I have an eye level 90 finder on my Rolleiflex 6003.)

With the camera held by two hands the eye piece is firmly against the head thus forming a three stable points holding the camera. This way the camera is held more steadily than with the waist level finder.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I love waist level finders on medium format cameras. Use it for a while and you may too. Like mentioned earlier, large format is also upside down. You get used to it all and don't think anything of it.

Now menus on digital cameras are what's confusing!

I used the waist level finder for years on other TLRs and always had problems tracking the subjects which always move the wrong way.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Now menus on digital cameras are what's confusing!

What are these menus about which you speak? :confused:

 

[Alan Gales]

I used the waist level finder for years on other TLRs and always had problems tracking the subjects which always move the wrong way.

I've never had a problem but I don't shoot fast moving subjects with medium format. I used to shoot a lot of sports with a DSLR and before that a 35mm SLR.

I agree with you though. It would be hard to shoot fast moving subjects with a waist level finder.

 

[Alan Gales]

What are these menus about which you speak? :confused:

Believe me, you don't want to know. It's like all your nightmares coming true!

My X100s does have a real aperture ring on the lens and a shutter speed dial on top of the camera. I wish it had an ISO ring too.

 

[Theo Sulphate]

My X100s does have a real aperture ring on the lens and a shutter speed dial on top of the camera. I wish it had an ISO ring too.

Behold the X-T1: shutter speed dial, exposure compensation dial, meter pattern dial (beneath shutter speed dial), ISO dial, drive mode dial (under ISO dial), plus diopter adjustment.

With the X-system lenses, you get an aperture ring as well.

It's basically got the same controls the Nikon F4 has, plus a far more elegant approach than P, A, S, M.


http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/fujifilm-x-t1

 

[Sirius Glass]

Now menus on digital cameras are what's confusing!

What are these menus about which you speak? :confused:

Believe me, you don't want to know. It's like all your nightmares coming true!

I will take that to the heart and avoid them.

 

[Alan Gales]

Behold the X-T1: shutter speed dial, exposure compensation dial, meter pattern dial (beneath shutter speed dial), ISO dial, drive mode dial (under ISO dial), plus diopter adjustment.

With the X-system lenses, you get an aperture ring as well.

It's basically got the same controls the Nikon F4 has, plus a far more elegant approach than P, A, S, M.


http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/fujifilm-x-t1

Thanks Theo. I am aware of the X-T1. It's an interesting camera for sure. I do like the leaf shutter, built in flash and combination optical and electronic view finder of my X-100s though. It serves my needs for family shots and ebay photos with it's close up option. I've got a button programed to take me right to the ISO menu. I just wish it had a dial on top of the camera instead like the X-T1 does. Maybe the X-100u will down the road.

 

[Alan Gales]

For the OP.

Yes, analog is a little more difficult than digital. Nothing to be afraid of though. It will slow you down a little which I find a good thing. When you spend more time on your subjects you end up with more "keepers". Plus you get the beautiful look of film.

We are glad to have you here on the forum!

 

[film_man]

As said, this is how waist level finders work. You can buy a prism which will make things "normal" again. You have a choice of either a 45 degree or 90 degree prism. A 90 degree prism make the camera just like a 35mm/digital SLR, you look straight and you get what you see. A 45 deg prism makes you look down a bit at (you guessed it) 45 degrees. I prefer the 90deg prism, I find the 45 a bit disorientating and trickier to level but that's just me.

The latest models are the PM45 and PM90 (unmetered) and the PME45 and PME90. Note that a PME prism while metered is not coupled to the camera, ie it tells you the exposure but you still have to adjust everything on the camera yourself. You can get older prisms like the PM5 or NC2. I think older prisms are perhaps not as bright but I can't tell for sure, I only used the latest PM prisms.

Waist finders are confusing but after a few rolls you get the hang of it and won't think of it. It is a shock when you first use one though

 

[Dr Croubie]

I also started on 35mm, both digital and film, before moving to MF and getting confused by the whole WLF backwards-thing.
But once I got used to them, I found that I actually got too used to them and started moving prism-finders the wrong way occasionally.

I really prefer a 45 degree prism over a 90 though.
Maybe it's because MF cameras are comparatively heavier (and/or I'm just lazy), but bringing it up to my eye with a 90 degree prism is just awkward for me (although i'm fine with eye-level finders on 35mm).
I also shoot a lot more people with MF, and the whole-body shots just work better with a chest-high camera, ie WLF or 45-degree prism.

 

[Nuff]

First try this: if you want to move the camera right, push the back of magazine right. If you want it to go left, push the magazine left. The camera should pivot the right way.

I also use 45 degree finder and I used to have PM90, but sold it. I also still use the waist level.

I sold the PM90 since it was awkward to use. The weight of camera is too much in front. Try using it with a 150 or 50mm lens and it feels unbalanced. Also the magnification is the lowest at x2. But also its the brightest finder.

The WLF has 5x magnification. So it makes focusing very easy. As long as the subject is dead centre in the middle of the screen.

I have skipped the PM45 prisms since the magnification is x2.5 and went for the older PM5 which has x3 magnification. For obvious reasons it will be slightly darker than PM45, but it allows me to focus a subject in corners and edges of the screen with ease. I also have the same screen as you, so brightness isn't an issue.

Before you get a prism, I would try to master WLF.

 

[ic-racer]

If so, then is there a way to change it (option/tweak on camera? purchase something?).

Pentaprism.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

Hey all,

I'm a photographer thats shot the entirety of profession in digital...and am now diving into analog (cue scary music).
I just bought a Hasselblad 501CM, A12, 80mm, acute matte setup and I've been struck by fact that everything through waist-level viewfinder is laterally the opposite (i.e. I need to move the camera right to correct what looks like in viewfinder I need to move left to cover). I can't even work out how to really move yet....

First question is if this is normal?
If so, then is there a way to change it (option/tweak on camera? purchase something?).


Really appreciate any and all thoughts.

Cheers,

Yes,normal and if it really bugs you, get a prism view finder.but,it's cheaper to get used to it,which won't take long.real photographers can deal with it.Remember,your eyes do the same thing all day long.