Hasselblad 501C Light Leaks

Put a test roll through my recently acquired H501c. The images have a larger light leak from the left. See attached.
The processor said he thought it was a shutter problem, but that didn't make sense to me. Any ideas?

ReginaldSMith said:

The processor said he thought it was a shutter problem, but that didn't make sense to me. Any ideas?

Click to expand...

http://www.cameramanuals.org/hasselblad/hasselblad_501c.pdf
That camera has an auxiliary shutter in front of the film plane. From the sample image I suspect film loading or darkslide light trap.

Remember that the image is upside down in the camera. So a light leak on the left side of the image landed on the right side of the film back. The light came through a bad light seal on the left side of the camera body. Replace the film back light shield. I have serious concerns about your processor blaming a lens shutter.

Which frame # was that?

Seen on 1 frame or all?

Without complete information about the fault it’s hard to say for sure but I’d bet on shutterfinger’s suggestion over that of your processor.

All images look like this. 2 might be a little less flared, but still consistent with this one.

The processor was just talking on a phone message. He doesn't even know what camera that were shot with. I figured his comment was inconsequential.

Light seals on your back. Easy and inexpensive repair.

Thanks. I'll try the light seals and maybe it is a simple fix in spite of how nasty the effect looks! As I said....my first roll through a spendy camera. I think out of the dozens of cameras I've bought used, this is the most dramatic cockup I've ever had on first roll. I won't panic yet.

You can check the date of the back from the serial number but if the back is from the same era as the camera... it’s practically a senior citizen. They deserve new light seals every once in a while. So Not too unexpected.

http://hasselbladhistorical.eu/HT/HTDating.aspx

Just like European cars and motorcycles, they have to be maintained. Light traps are part of that maintenance, and fortunately easy to replace.

To be doubly sure, I keep the dark slide out and put a strip of black electrical tape over the slot. There's no need to insert the dark slide if you keep the back in place, and no need to remove the back to change film.

Report:
I bought the A12 light trap kit on Ebay for $13. It arrived today and I installed it. The instructions were good, clear, and there were good photos. The materials consist of a sliver of die cut mylar with a crease, and a sliver of gray foam to go in the crease. About 5-cents worth of materials, but I am sure the die to cut the mylar was a few hundred dollars. So, price was fair enough. Indeed the old trap was fully rotted away. The NINE tiny screws had me a little worried and sure enough one was frozen. Always happens, doesn't it? I carefully worked the stuck screw with some added leverage and thankfully it loosened.
I went right out and shot a roll and sent it off. Hopefully, this will fix the light leak. We'll see. The dark slide did feel tighter going in, so....

In the future, now that I see what the deal is, I will make my own, and save the $13. The nice die-cut mylar isn't going to wear out, just the sliver of gray foam will rot away.

Your processor said that because that’s similar to what shutter capping would look like with a focal plane shutter.

Next time you encounter a stuck screw soak it with Acetone aka nail polish remover for 5 to 10 minutes.
A thread locker similar to clear nail polish is used in cameras. It dissolves with acetone. Its used in lens also.

shutterfinger said:

Next time you encounter a stuck screw soak it with Acetone aka nail polish remover for 5 to 10 minutes.
A thread locker similar to clear nail polish is used in cameras. It dissolves with acetone. Its used in lens also.

Click to expand...

If you do this just make sure you don't get any acetone on plastic parts of the camera. It will partially dissolve most plastics and permanently deface them.