Thanks for the expanding my lexicon!This stands for Cleaning, Lubrication, and Adjustment. This is one of those terms that camera guys like to throw around. Unfortunately, it can mean almost any degree of maintenance (or non-maintenance) that a repair service wants to define as their version of a CLA. If you are in USA and send your camera to one of the better-known Hasselblad repair services or to Hasselblad-Bron in New Jersey, the CLA will be quite thorough.
Hi Kodachromeguy,Excellent advice above! If you do not have these accessories, let me suggest (urge):
1. Hood. You need the Bayonet B50 size.
2. For B&W film, yellow, green, and orange filters, and possibly red. These will be B50, and not too expensive.
3. If you already have 52mm color filters from another camera, get a B50- 52 adapter ring. I trust Tim at Filterfind.net for such items.
4. Cable release.
I will not go down the rat hole of whether you should use a "protection" filter.
Have fun!
Not tremendously expensive, but since it is a Hasselblad, not cheap either. You really can't tell much by visual inspection, but if you see light leaks on one side of your film, it means the seals are shot. An emergency work-around is to put a narrow piece of gaffer's tape over the slot where the dark slide has been removed. You will not be able to remove the back but if you only have one, that is not a problem. The back does not get removed to reload film.Are the foam light seals costly to replace? What indication should I look for?
Are the foam light seals costly to replace? What indication should I look for?
I'm so paranoid about this preventative maintenance that I bought a cheap motorized 500ELX body just for easier quicker exercise of all the shutter speeds/apertures in all my lenses every couple months (if I haven't been using them). Its a lot easier than manually crank cocking repeatedly, OTOH the stress on my wrist from palming that dense heavy brick up to a bright window and pressing the electric shutter button 200 times an hour is probably not doing my tendons any favors.
To say nothing of the contortions I put my hands thru to exercise the leaf shutters in all my Maniya TLR and Mamiya Press lenses.
Hi Kodachromeguy,
I'm curious, why do I need a hood, filters and protection filter?
Ah, just what I needed for motivation and divine inspiration to run out and buy the EL.
T*H*A*N*K Y*O*U!!
Yep. Hope it works!Did you get one of those $25-30 "pens" from China on eBay?
Yep. Hope it works!
You certainly should do that, except for the weight, I prefer my EL over my manual bodies.
This thread prompted me to get around to buying the Hasselblad lens cocking tool. Thanks for that! I picked up an EL body some time ago as a backup- ridiculously low price. I suspect a lot of the EL bodies are bought for just this reason now that they are much less desirable than the manual bodies.
B&W; Color???
Ilford FP-4+; Kodak Portra 160
Well, if you are interested in processing then your answer should have been B&W. Easy to do, even without a darkroom. Color processing at home is possible but more complex. Sending color film to a lab is not inexpensive but a good idea.Both. I don't have a darkroom and I am interested in processing the negatives. Where might I start exploring digital negative options?
Clarify what you mean by that.digital negative options?
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