cp, I've done a bit of this with many of the same chemicals and had decent results but haven't refined it yet. What I don't understand is after the bleach process you can work with the lights on, but then holding it up to a light bulb. What about all the exposure the film is getting when the regular lights are one? See what i'm getting at?
I had the same thoughts once so tried cutting out that step, and what i finished up with was an uneven exposure. some parts were just too faint - im guesing that these areas were a little shaded by the spiral maby??
I should also add that the timings I use are tweaked for cine film so possibly a tiny bit higher contrast than some people might like - but hey, not everybody wants exactly what the manufacturers say... we all adjust a little.
cp, I've done a bit of this with many of the same chemicals and had decent results but haven't refined it yet. What I don't understand is after the bleach process you can work with the lights on, but then holding it up to a light bulb. What about all the exposure the film is getting when the regular lights are one? See what i'm getting at?
The important bit is getting the original negative developed. That is the "Mask" for the subsequent reversal. Once that has been bleached out, the remaining emulsion is there to "fill in" the gaps. Its developed to completion. As its there to fill in the gaps left over, more exposure over and above whats required to get maximum density doesn't really matter, the image has already been set as blank bits.
I made some 'prints' on glass which had emulsion on it; the resulting positive slides are quite nice. So that is an option: coat emulsion onto glass...