If you were to look at the paper under normal light it would appear pink. So if you see that it's normal. This goes away in the fixer or at least the wash.
The unexposed areas such as where the film holder covers the paper will process black. The longer you expose the paper the brighter it gets. It is a little harder to think things through if you have been working with negatives all your life. For example "My print is to dark" You didn't over expose it. It's under exposed.
For a safelight I use
this one and have had great luck. I even load my with it on.
It is worth mention that I have painted the bottom and about a third of the way up it black. There are do direct rays coming from the bulb to the paper. I am not sure this was necessary but I know I did not need as much light as I was getting.
The images on this paper are very contrasty. So watch your shadow areas. They may go totally black on you. If you are photographing anything toward the red end of the spectrum it will stay dark in the final image. For example many of the
Dead Link Removed I photograph at the shore have an orange color to them. Sort of like an amber safelight to the paper. So they tend to photograph a bit dark. Keep an eye on your lighting and subject and you can capture a nice tonal range.
I use all Ilford Chemistry. The paper seems to develop in about a minute and I am down to 1.5 for my time if I tank process. Sometimes I use
these tanks. I have three and set up my chemistry in each one. I also tray develop in 5x7 trays sometimes.
I hope this helps a bit. I will be happy to answer any other questions I can. This is still new to me but so far I am very happy with the results.