Hardening fixer and hypo clear

[MartinCrabtree]

I'm getting ready to develop my first roll of TMax 100. Due to budget constraints I bought chemicals at a closing photo shop. The fixer is Kodak Kodafix which is a hardening fixer. Reading Kodak publication F-4016 it says when using a hardening type fixer hypo removing agent is required. Well money is that tight 'round here so my question is there a substitute or is it just not necessary? Or should I just pony up and buy some hypo clear?

 

[MattKing]

I'm getting ready to develop my first roll of TMax 100. Due to budget constraints I bought chemicals at a closing photo shop. The fixer is Kodak Kodafix which is a hardening fixer. Reading Kodak publication F-4016 it says when using a hardening type fixer hypo removing agent is required. Well money is that tight 'round here so my question is there a substitute or is it just not necessary? Or should I just pony up and buy some hypo clear?

Actually, this is what F-4016 says:

FINAL STEPS
Rinse at 65 to 75°F (18 to 24°C) with agitation in KODAK
Indicator Stop Bath or running water for 30 seconds.
Fix at 65 to 75°F (18 to 24°C) for 3 to 5 minutes with
vigorous agitation in KODAK Rapid Fixer. Be sure to agitate
the film frequently during fixing.
Note: To keep fixing times as short as possible, we strongly
recommend using KODAK Rapid Fixer. If you use another
fixer, such as KODAK Fixer or KODAFIX Solution, fix for 5
to 10 minutes or twice the time it takes for the film to clear.
You can check the film for clearing after 3 minutes in
KODAK Rapid Fixer or 5 minutes in KODAK Fixer or
KODAFIX Solution.
Important
Your fixer will be exhausted more rapidly with these films
than with other films. If your negatives show a magenta
(pink) stain after fixing, your fixer may be near exhaustion,
or you may not have used a long enough time. If the stain
is slight, it will not affect image stability, negative contrast,
or printing times. You can remove a slight pink stain with
KODAK Hypo Clearing Agent. However, if the stain is
pronounced and irregular over the film surface, refix the
film in fresh fixer.
Wash for 20 to 30 minutes in running water at 65 to
75°F (18 to 24°C) with a flow rate that provides at least
one complete change of water in 5 minutes. You can wash
long rolls on the processing reel. To save time and
conserve water, use KODAK Hypo Clearing Agent.
Dry film in a dust-free place. To minimize drying marks,
treat the film with KODAK PHOTO-FLO Solution after
washing, or wipe the surface carefully with a KODAK
Photo Chamois or a soft viscose sponge.

 

[Gerald C Koch]

You can find formulas for hypo clearing bath on the APUG or the net. Even a simple solution of sodium sulfite can be used.

 

[MartinCrabtree]

Guess I should have included I'm on a deep well with a decades old septic system so washing for 20-30 minutes is a no-no. I'll need to do the Ilford method. Just trying to cover all the bases. This roll has been in the camera for who knows how long (just went looking for something else and discovered it) anyway so we'll just see what happens with an extended Ilford wash.

Thanks.

 

[Jager]

I used Kodafix and Hypo Clear for years. Several months ago, in an effort to (modestly) simplify my process, I changed to Ilford Rapid Fixer (chosen because, like Kodafix, it comes as a liquid), sans any wash aid. Works great. Highly recommended.

I, too, am on well and septic.

 

[Rick A]

If the Kodafix comes with a separate packet of hardener, do not mix it in. This will allow for shorter washing times, and you really don't need it, modern film emulsions are nearly all pre-hardened(the exception being Foma films).

 

[Doc W]

The number of water changes is probably as important as the duration of washing.

However, if you plan to do more of this, given your budget and your water restrictions, make your own hypo clearing agent. It is very inexpensive. Furthermore, since it has a very short shelf life, you can mix it up from scratch only when you need it, rather than making a stock solution (which always seems to expire before I get full use of it).

 

[MartinCrabtree]

Thanks again for all the help. The water issue won't likely go away and hopefully the financial issues will be short lived.

 

[Rudeofus]

Wash for 20 to 30 minutes in running water at 65 to
75°F (18 to 24°C) with a flow rate that provides at least
one complete change of water in 5 minutes.

If you run these numbers and assume a 500ml tank for one roll of 120 format film, this ends up as 20-30 / 5 * 500ml = 2-3 liters of wash water. This is not a whole lot IMHO, barely more than you need for mixing developer, stop bath and fixer.

 

[MartinCrabtree]

The main reason for using the Ilford method is the minerals in our water. I live in coal country (I can mine my own coal with a shovel) and there's a lot of minerals (especially sulfur) in the tap water even with a whole house treatment system. When the water table is down you can smell the sulfur strongly. So I will be using distilled water and the Ilford method.

 

[Xmas]

The main reason for using the Ilford method is the minerals in our water. I live in coal country (I can mine my own coal with a shovel) and there's a lot of minerals (especially sulfur) in the tap water even with a whole house treatment system. When the water table is down you can smell the sulfur strongly. So I will be using distilled water and the Ilford method.

I still would not want to put wash water or used hypo into a septic tank. Silver ions are toxic at a low concentrations, I'd tank to waste disposal.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

I'm getting ready to develop my first roll of TMax 100. Due to budget constraints I bought chemicals at a closing photo shop. The fixer is Kodak Kodafix which is a hardening fixer. Reading Kodak publication F-4016 it says when using a hardening type fixer hypo removing agent is required. Well money is that tight 'round here so my question is there a substitute or is it just not necessary? Or should I just pony up and buy some hypo clear?

It is necessaryand there are substitudes but they won't be cheaper;longer washing does not help;just get it