The "ugly" look is typically just poor use of the tools or older flash units without the built in sensor and auto control.
The ugly stuff comes IMO mostly in two ways, 1- when too much flash is used so that there is to big a difference in luminance between subject and background and 2- when the shot printed too light.
Hi,
I saw a video on youtube of a photographer using a handheld off camera flash on the street.
I was wondering about the possibilities. Certainly for night stuff.
But I must say first, I don't know a lot about flash. I've only used the in camera flashes of camera's up until now. And well since it's very ugly most of the time I tend to use it very seldom.
Since I don't know a lot about flash, I don't know how it can be done. And how much it would cost.
So what I am asking is for a kit that is compact and light without costing too much and to be universal (so not proprietary for one camera)
The camera's I'd use it with are also very compact camera's.
Those small Rangefinders like Olympus XA (although not possible I think?) Olympus 35RD, Canon ql17 gIII, Yashica GX, etc.
Thanks ahead,
My favorite brand flash is Sunpak. They sell 'potato masher' flashes but they are expensive. Instead I would go for one of their shoe flashes, which are packed w/ features like power ratio and bounce card. The one thing they don't have is the sensor on the camera. Of the cameras you have aside from the XA which is a beautiful outfit for what it was designed for. None of your cameras will do TTL but this is the next best thing. I would go for a Vivitar 283 of 285.
Each of these flashes have a cable accessory that will allow you to separate the sensor from the flash and mount the sensor on the hot shoe of the camera.
Francis in VT
Being on the same axis is not by itself a problem. Many studio setups use strobes on the camera axis. There are even shoot through lights likes ring lights or a moon unit.
Size can be a real issue but if all you want to add is a gentle flick of light on a subjects face just to help reduce the shadows a bit it can work just fine right on the hot shoe. There are lots of ways to increase the size too.
A great inexpensive camera for this is a Nikon N90s, up from that an F100 or F5.
A great strobe for these cameras is an SB90dx has the tilt and swivel head too. That's not the only good choice though.
F/2.8 or faster lens will also help, gives you more choices.
View attachment 64881
Something like this?
I just found out by taking my cameras out that both the Olympus 35RC (I think the RD is the same) and the Canonet QL17 GIII have the PC connector on its side. So no hot shoe adapter is not necessary.
I'm more into the small compact rangefinders
Or small compact zone focused camera's.
I really want to pack light and compact.
What is the Metz brick at the side? That seems not compact friendly
Something like that, but what I'd try is the flash in one hand and camera in the other. Atleast that's what I saw and seemed very cool
What is the Metz brick at the side? That seems not compact friendly
Something like that, but what I'd try is the flash in one hand and camera in the other. Atleast that's what I saw and seemed very cool
To use the XA with off camera flash use an optical slave & PC cord.
Small auto flash for the remote, PC cord with optical slave plugged in to the sync end(really?) and tape the slave to the flash for the XA.
Make sure to cover the entire of the flash tube with an opaque tape so you don't have any light leakage. A11 would work fine.
Want softer light? put a layer of lens tissue or two over the remote flash.
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