Hand Held Meter Recommendations?

[runswithsizzers]

I am thinking about replacing my old Gossen Pilot 2 because the selenium cell may be getting a little weak. I never see Sunny 16; more like Sunny 11 or usually, even less. My 35mm film cameras have built in meters, but I sometimes need an incident reading in tricky lighting situations. I almost never use the Gossen for reflective readings except in rare cases when I want a Zone 3 shadows reading.

Looking at new meters, I would probably be happy with either the Sekonic L-208 Twin Mate or the Gossen Digisix 2. But I would also be open to saving some money by buying a used light meter if there is something else similar in size and functionality but in an older version.

What else should I look at that is not too big, not too digital, and not too expensive - but might be more reliable than my old Gossen Pilot 2?

 

[mshchem]

I have 3 Minolta auto meter IV F meters. The first one I picked up new in c 1985. All 3 agree. There's flat diffusion disks, for ratio and copy measurements, I have the 5° ? spot attachment for reflectance readings. Last one I picked up from Roberts photo on Ebay a week back for 110 usd. They use a single AA cell. If you can find a Gossen still made in Germany. I have a little pocket sized Gossen meter, runs of a single lithium CR2032, works great, has a built-in thermometer, just in case.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I highly recommend the Gossen Luna Six Pro SBC which has the Zone System built in.

 

[runswithsizzers]

I highly recommend the Gossen Luna Six Pro SBC which has the Zone System built in.

I am having trouble figuring trying to sort out all of the many models of Gossen meters. Apparently, there have been many variations of the 'Luna Pro' series over the years. The same product seems to have different names in different countries, and different products have similar names. So far, I am not finding a specific model called the "Gossen Luna Six Pro SBC" - do you have a link to a photo or website which describes that model? Is that model different from the Gossen Luna Pro SBC?

I probably should not have mentioned the Zone system, because I don't really use it that much (roll film shooter). I did happen to take a Zone 3 reading today, shooting b&w in a difficult sunlight-and-shadows scene. But 99 times out of a hundred I'll make my exposure decision based on an incident reading. And honestly, for me, the more basic the meter, the better.

 

[StepheKoontz]

I just picked up a twinmate and like it. The analog feel of it seems right shooting with 1950's vintage gear. I also have a newer digital sekonic L308B flash meter that works great.

 

[Adrian Bacon]

I use the Sekonic L-308S-U. It's relatively inexpensive, and is very accurate for incident meter readings.

 

[runswithsizzers]

I just picked up a twinmate and like it. The analog feel of it seems right shooting with 1950's vintage gear. I also have a newer digital sekonic L308B flash meter that works great.

I use the Sekonic L-308S-U. It's relatively inexpensive, and is very accurate for incident meter readings.

Thanks. I used some variation of the Sekonic L-308 (maybe the L-308-S?) while taking a college university class, and it was a very fine meter. But I do prefer the analog dials of the Pilot 2, L-208 Twin Mate, and Digisix 2 which show all the various equivalent f-stop and shutter speed pairs at a glance. And I was hoping for something a little smaller and cheaper than the Sekonic L-308. But I may end up buying the L-308, anyway because I know I can get good results with it.

Size is hard to judge from the pictures on the internet; have either of you seen your L-308 mater side-by-side with a Gossen Luna Pro SBC? I am seeing a lot of good reviews for the Luna Pro SBC, and they are available at affordable prices - but I am afraid the Luna Pro SBC might be way too big.

 

[mshchem]

Thanks. I used some variation of the Sekonic L-308 (maybe the L-308-S?) while taking a college university class, and it was a very fine meter. But I do prefer the analog dials of the Pilot 2, L-208 Twin Mate, and Digisix 2 which show all the various equivalent f-stop and shutter speed pairs at a glance. And I was hoping for something a little smaller and cheaper than the Sekonic L-308. But I may end up buying the L-308, anyway because I know I can get good results with it.

Size is hard to judge from the pictures on the internet; have either of you seen your L-308 mater side-by-side with a Gossen Luna Pro SBC? I am seeing a lot of good reviews for the Luna Pro SBC, and they are available at affordable prices - but I am afraid the Luna Pro SBC might be way too big.

I've got a Gossen Digisix I, current model is the Digisix II and there's also a Digisix Flash. Look at the Digisix II a look, it's about the size of a pocket watch, I think mine weighs about 50 grams. Hang it around your neck on the supplied cord, you can put it in a shirt pocket or inside your shirt. If compact is important this is the winner. B&H sells the Digisix II for 170 USD, I've had my model I since it came out, has a thermometer, clock, alarm, incident and reflectance meter.

 

[mshchem]

B&H has a used grade 9 Luna Pro SBC for 109 USD. I had a original Luna Pro I bought in the 70's, it was an industry workhorse. Weight 185 grams just under 5 inches, uses a 9V Battery. These are phenomenal light meters. These are no longer produced, all analog with a sweep needle, beautiful, classic meter. Probably would cost 600 bucks to make today.

I checked the Digisix II weighs 40 grams. It's not anywhere near as sexy as the Luna Pro SBC, but if you want lightweight, made in Germany, micro miniaturized electronic.

That SBC is so sexy I'm fighting the urge to buy it
Best Regards Mike

 

[MattKing]

I am having trouble figuring trying to sort out all of the many models of Gossen meters. Apparently, there have been many variations of the 'Luna Pro' series over the years. The same product seems to have different names in different countries, and different products have similar names. So far, I am not finding a specific model called the "Gossen Luna Six Pro SBC" - do you have a link to a photo or website which describes that model? Is that model different from the Gossen Luna Pro SBC?

The problem with the naming of Gossen meters arises because the US importer/distributor insisted on using a different name than the rest of the world used.
The meter that Sirius refers to is properly known as:
1) Gossen Luna Pro SBC in the USA; and
2) Gossen Profisix in the rest of the world.
There are a couple of other Gossen meters you might also consider, because they share the same 9 volt battery requirement as the Luna Pro SBC / Profisix and are of similar vintage:
A) Gossen Profiflash (Gossen Luna Pro F in the US); and
B) Gossen Lunalite - (Gossen Luna-lux in the US).
The Profiflash/Luna Pro F add the capacity for flash readings, but don't offer quite as much extended sensitivity for low light readings as the Profisix/Luna Pro SBC.
The Lunalite/Luna-lux replace the excellent needle based nul reading system of the Profisix/Luna Pro SBC and Profiflash/Luna Pro F with a small number of LEDs. They have less sensitivity then either of the others.
Those meters were successors to the earlier line:
a) Gossen Lunasix in most of the world (Gossen Luna Pro in the US); followed by
b) Gossen Lunasix 3 in most of the world (Gossen Luna Pro 3 in the US); followed by
c) Gossen Lunasix 3s in most of the world (Gossen Luna Pro 3s in the US).
The Lunasix/Luna Pro meters are not without their advantages, but they are older and they require a work around due to the unavailability of the mercury batteries they were designed for.
There are a number of accessories that add capabilities to many of these meters - some require the electrical connections of the Profisix et al, while others work as well with the non-electrical connection equipped Lunasix meters. At one time I had the flash metering attachment for the Profisix. I still have a semi-spot attachment and an enlarger metering attachment, both of which will work with both the Luna Pro F and the Lunasix 3s.
I used a Profisix for several decades and was very happy with it. I now use, in order of frequency of use:
I) a Gossen Digiflash;
II) a Gossen Luna Pro F; and
III) a Gossen Lunasix 3s.
My old Profisix and my current Digiflash were bought new, while the Luna Pro F and Lunasix 3s were bought used.

 

[Adrian Bacon]

Thanks. I used some variation of the Sekonic L-308 (maybe the L-308-S?) while taking a college university class, and it was a very fine meter. But I do prefer the analog dials of the Pilot 2, L-208 Twin Mate, and Digisix 2 which show all the various equivalent f-stop and shutter speed pairs at a glance. And I was hoping for something a little smaller and cheaper than the Sekonic L-308. But I may end up buying the L-308, anyway because I know I can get good results with it.

Size is hard to judge from the pictures on the internet; have either of you seen your L-308 mater side-by-side with a Gossen Luna Pro SBC? I am seeing a lot of good reviews for the Luna Pro SBC, and they are available at affordable prices - but I am afraid the Luna Pro SBC might be way too big.

My L-308 is 4 inches top to bottom, 2.5 inches wide, and about an inch thick including the bulb at the top. I always hang it from my neck, and put it in my shirt pocket of doing anything more than standing there taking pictures. Weight wise, it's barely heavier than the battery in it.

 

[summicron1]

Hard to go wrong with a Sekonic L398 for incident reading. I also use a Metrawatt "Metrastar" which has both incident and reflective and works very well.

Both can be found on the used market and are very good -- the Sekonic is still sold new as well. The Metrastar uses a battery, and the last Leica Manual (from around 1978) has a whole chapter with Ansel Adams discussing how to use it.

 

[AgX]

I am having trouble figuring trying to sort out all of the many models of Gossen meters. Apparently, there have been many variations of the 'Luna Pro' series over the years. The same product seems to have different names in different countries, and different products have similar names. So far, I am not finding a specific model called the "Gossen Luna Six Pro SBC" - do you have a link to a photo or website which describes that model? Is that model different from the Gossen Luna Pro SBC

Look for "Profisix".
A similar model is called "Lunasix F", it got reduced sensitivity, does not take the electrically connected accessories, but instead flash metering is added.

(Somewhere in the depth of Apug is a list compairing the original model names with their US designations.)

 

[John51]

I only use incident on my Profisix. I don't use the zone system but the zone markings on my Gossen are very convenient. The scale is numbered 3-2-1-0-1-2-3. With the first reading, I adjust the dial so that the needle is at 0. If the light changes, the new reading shows by how many stops the light has changed.

 

[AgX]

The scale is less for showing how much light has changed, but to "place" luminance values.
A meter is calibrated for 18% reflectivity and it only understands absolute luminance, but cannot distinguish between a white and a black wall, white or black skin etc. This scale makes it intuitive to tell the meter about it.

And before that for the user to understand and establish these deviations...


Strange enough many people praise a nulling meter display at cameras (where it typically makes little sense by lack of spot-metering), but reject it at handheld meters.

 

[runswithsizzers]

I've got a Gossen Digisix I, current model is the Digisix II and there's also a Digisix Flash. Look at the Digisix II a look, it's about the size of a pocket watch, I think mine weighs about 50 grams. Hang it around your neck on the supplied cord, you can put it in a shirt pocket or inside your shirt. If compact is important this is the winner. B&H sells the Digisix II for 170 USD, I've had my model I since it came out, has a thermometer, clock, alarm, incident and reflectance meter.

Yes, the Digisix 2 is high on my list. What kind of battery life do you get with your Digisix 1?

How easy is it to ignore the thermometer, clock, and alarm? That is, if you are using the Digisix as light meter, how often do you find yourself scrolling past the menus for the other items to get back into the mode for incident light readings?

 

[mshchem]

Yes, the Digisix 2 is high on my list. What kind of battery life do you get with your Digisix 1?

How easy is it to ignore the thermometer, clock, and alarm? That is, if you are using the Digisix as light meter, how often do you find yourself scrolling past the menus for the other items to get back into the mode for incident light readings?

The battery lasts forever, 2-5 years easy. No problem with the thermometer, I never use, it's designed to be used as an incident light meter. You just dial in the ISO and then go. Push the button and you get LCD real time readings, let up on the button and it displays and holds the final reading. There's no real drawback to the meter. It's a great meter

 

[runswithsizzers]

Thanks to MattKing and AgX for helping me to sort out the Gossen models.

The battery lasts forever, 2-5 years easy. No problem with the thermometer, I never use, it's designed to be used as an incident light meter. You just dial in the ISO and then go. Push the button and you get LCD real time readings, let up on the button and it displays and holds the final reading. There's no real drawback to the meter. It's a great meter

Good to know! With so few buttons, I was afraid accidentally pressing the wrong one could result in ending up in menu hell.*

One last question about the Digisix. How hard is it to change the ISO? I often carry two 35mm film cameras with different ISO film in each one. When you say "dial in the ISO" I get your meaning, but that's a figure of speech, because it's a button right? If I want to change the ISO from 320 to 100, can I navigate DOWN to the smaller ISO? Or is it necessary to navigate UP the ISO menu until it goes all the way over the top value, and then back around from zero up to 100?

*Amusing anecdote: Soon after I got my first job in a hospital laboratory, I was working alone on the night Daylight Savings Time went into effect. While I was trying to set the correct time on one of the laboratory instruments, I accidentally switched the language to Japanese. Took me a while to get out of that one.

 

[MattKing]

On my Digiflash, you can only cycle up through the ISO readings. If one holds the button, it cycles quickly up through the maximum and then starts again at the minimum. If you are in normal reading mode, you don't have to change modes to change the ISO.
You quickly get quite good at releasing the button at the right time .
The updated version 2 series may change that. I believe that they changed one thing that is important - with the version 1 series it was fairly easy to push the reading button accidentally (e.g. in your camera bag) and thus drain the meter. The upside is that the lithium CR3032 batteries are three for $1.00 at our local Dollar stores, so it is easy to have enough for three battery changes in your camera bag.

 

[dourbalistar]

Another recommendation for the Sekonic L-208 TwinMate. I chose it because I preferred the analog readout, where you can see all the equivalent exposures at a glance. There's a dedicated ISO dial, in the literal, physical sense. Only two (single function) buttons on the meter, one to take a light reading, and one on the back to check the battery. I think it's slightly larger than the Digisix, but it's also about $50 cheaper brand new. On the other hand, the Digisix has more sensitivity from 0-18 EV compared to 3-17 EV at ISO 100, and 1/3 step increments compared to 1/2 step increments.

 

[StepheKoontz]

Another recommendation for the Sekonic L-208 TwinMate. I chose it because I preferred the analog readout, where you can see all the equivalent exposures at a glance.

This. With the digital meters I find myself pushing buttons to get the info I need. With the analog, it's so easy to translate it to useful information. I typically operate in "Aperture priority mode", even using an old manual camera, and the digital meters are shutter priority.

 

[runswithsizzers]

Another recommendation for the Sekonic L-208 TwinMate. I chose it because I preferred the analog readout, where you can see all the equivalent exposures at a glance. There's a dedicated ISO dial, in the literal, physical sense. Only two (single function) buttons on the meter, one to take a light reading, and one on the back to check the battery. I think it's slightly larger than the Digisix, but it's also about $50 cheaper brand new. On the other hand, the Digisix has more sensitivity from 0-18 EV compared to 3-17 EV at ISO 100, and 1/3 step increments compared to 1/2 step increments.

Perfectly sums up my dilemma.

Naturally, I would prefer the greater low-light sensitivity of the Gossen Digisix, but compared to my old Pilot 2 (EV 5.0-17 at 100 ISO), the Sekonic Twin Mate is still a minor improvement.

Thanks for pointing out the Twin Mate has 1/2 steps in the ISO scale; I was not aware of that. But I am having trouble visualizing what that looks like. On your Twin Mate, how many marks are there between ISO 200 and 400? And if only one mark - does that represent ISO 300, or ... ?

The more I think about the Gossen Digisix, the less I like the idea of its menus. Navigating menus is an unavoidable necessity with my digital cameras, but when shooting film, maybe I would prefer to avoid menus altogether?

 

[dourbalistar]

Here are two web reviews with photos, including one reviewer who previously used the Gossen Pilot. If you do a lot of shooting below EV 3, one of the Gossen Luna models may work better.
http://www.fogdog-photography.com/fogdog-blog/2016/4/2/thoughts-on-the-sekonic-l-208-twin-mate
https://www.kpraslowicz.com/2017/07/29/sekonic-twinmate-l-208-lightmeter-review

As a side note, if you have older cameras that utilize EV for exposure settings, you may find the EV readout on the L-208 useful.

 

[runswithsizzers]

This. With the digital meters I find myself pushing buttons to get the info I need. With the analog, it's so easy to translate it to useful information. I typically operate in "Aperture priority mode", even using an old manual camera, and the digital meters are shutter priority.

So true! And I shoot the same way. Someone gave me a Canon A-E1, and I quickly decided shutter priority just seems awkward to me.

While I completely trusted the readings from the university's Sekonic L-308, I much preferred using my old Gossen Pilot 2 because of it's analog interface.

 

[runswithsizzers]

Here are two web reviews with photos, including one reviewer who previously used the Gossen Pilot. If you do a lot of shooting below EV 3, one of the Gossen Luna models may work better.
http://www.fogdog-photography.com/fogdog-blog/2016/4/2/thoughts-on-the-sekonic-l-208-twin-mate
https://www.kpraslowicz.com/2017/07/29/sekonic-twinmate-l-208-lightmeter-review

As a side note, if you have older cameras that utilize EV for exposure settings, you may find the EV readout on the L-208 useful.

Thanks - very helpful!