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iansand

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Thanks Loris,

kind of you to say that. I guess I would agree on the 'pictorial' though I find it difficult to use terms. I have found that the process has become as important as the image. When I have shown my prints to people the discussion revolves around 'how I did it' rather than the image. I hope this reaction will be short lived!

regards

Ian
 

Loris Medici

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I think it depends to whom you show the prints; photographers and photography enthusiast "who also practice photography" (as a means of expression) will be always interested in the technical side, I mean significantly more than regular(!) viewers...
 

Bob Carnie

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Steven Livik and Keith Taylor come to my mind , as workers in gum who have produced work that is **more photographic looking in nature**
not sure if I am expressing myself well. Jim Larimer on this site is producing some work that moves in that direction.

Steven's series on Ontario Carnaval workers really come to my mind, though I have not seen them in over 15 years. I really wish I had bought a couple of his prints when I first saw his work 1980 in Toronto.
Bob,

The tri colour gum prints I've seen first hand and on the internet have tended towards the pictorial. Do you know to what extent a more "photographic" result is possible?

Tom
 

Keith Taylor

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Bob,

The tri colour gum prints I've seen first hand and on the internet have tended towards the pictorial. Do you know to what extent a more "photographic" result is possible?

Tom

Tom - When I first started printing Cy DeCosse's work I chose the Hot Press Fabriano which resulted in very photo-realistic results. In fact we both felt it was too realistic and Cy wanted something a little more painterly, so we backed off and went with the Soft Press finish. As far as I know Fabriano Artistico is the only paper that offers this surface - it's in the middle between Hot Press and Cold Press.

Don - I use separations because of the size - they're 20" x 27" images, otherwise for everything else I use inkjet negatives and positives with PDN and QuadTone RIP. The imagesetter separations work out about $42 each plus shipping at that size, not cheap but reliable.

Keith.
 

Keith Taylor

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When I had lunch with Bob a few weeks back he described the stripping process to me. Basically I need the punch, stripping table, and registration pins.

Don,
I don't have a stripping table, just the punch and pins. As long as you're careful and take your time it's not too much of a hassle. I use strips of Mylar cut to size and litho tape. And the only reason I use the Ternes system is they're local. :smile:
 

donbga

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Don,
I don't have a stripping table, just the punch and pins. As long as you're careful and take your time it's not too much of a hassle. I use strips of Mylar cut to size and litho tape. And the only reason I use the Ternes system is they're local. :smile:

Thanks for chiming in. I have a large light box or small light table so I assumed I would set up on that. Tape the negatives together aligning with cut marks or center lines printed on the extended canvas.

The question I have is what material to use to extend the negatives to allow placement over the punch pin. Scrap OHP.

I assume once the negs are stripped and taped together in alignment they are then punched together. However I'm not clear how the negs are punched in alignment with the aluminum (or thin plexi) that the paper is dry mounted to.

What kind of punch do uo use, BTW? I know this is all so simple but I can't visualize the process.

FWIW, I can make prints that have nice saturated colors that look very photo realistic using inkjet negatives created with Precision Digital Negatives. I just don't punch register them.

Each negative has it's own curve. I'll see if I can post an image or two to show. Though I'm curious to try the ICC method since I have a friend locally that has the high end xRite hardware and software. My favorite paper to print on is BFK which has a bit more texture than FAEW. Perhaps I need to try out the soft press.

Sometimes I think we need to start a specific forum just hybrid printing of gum and tri-color carbon or tri-color carbo. Perhaps we should ask Sean to create a new forum with the website rebuilt.

Thanks,

Don
 

carioca

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color pigment prints...

I believe one person in France still produces them, from what I recall they are about 2500 Euros each to print. They are also referred to as pigment transfer prints

The company in France that still produces color pigment carbon prints is called 'Fresson' http://www.atelier-fresson.com/home.htm
Price list is on their site. ...... 2500$ ?!?, I don't think they can print that size ;-)

As mentioned in this thread, some of Sarah Moons color carbon prints were made by Tod Gangler.

Back to Fresson, I have 2 BW prints from them, (they work only with the direct carbon print process, not carbon transfer, either BW or COLOR), they are ok. I prefer the transfer process because of more relief, but the direct color carbons from them are stunning.

Sidney

Paris, France
 
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Davec101

Davec101

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Sometimes I think we need to start a specific forum just hybrid printing of gum and tri-color carbon or tri-color carbo. Perhaps we should ask Sean to create a new forum with the website rebuilt.

Thanks,

Don

Good idea! I would definitely be up for that, I have to completely get to grips with tri-gum. A client who I am currently making large platinum prints for is relying on it as she wants some hand made colour prints for her exhibition in Italy next year.
 
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Davec101

Davec101

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The company in France that still produces color pigment carbon prints is called 'Fresson' http://www.atelier-fresson.com/home.htm
Price list is on their site. ...... 2500$ ?!?, I don't think they can print that size ;-)


Paris, France

I had a look at the site I worked it out to be about 550 Euros for a 62 x 92 cm, i think that looks right. Will contact them.
 

Keith Taylor

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The question I have is what material to use to extend the negatives to allow placement over the punch pin. Scrap OHP.

I always punch the strips first and then attach them to the negatives. There's always a small shift when punching several together it seems.

Here's my workflow, I hope it's fairly clear.

1. Mount the paper to the aluminum. I always position the paper on the sheet in the same place - centered on the punched holes.

2. Put the pins in and place a strip of punched Mylar on top.

3. Position the negative on the paper and when it's in the correct place, tape it to the header strip with litho tape. Sometimes it's easier if the negative is taped temporarily to the paper before attaching it to the Mylar strip.

4. Now you can remove the negative and header strip from the paper and pins and work on the lightbox. Place this negative down first, with pins, and register all subsequent negatives on top of this in the same way.

It sounds complicated and laborious but it's actually quite fast. If you have imagesetter negatives made then you can ask the service bureau to punch the film for you, but you'll always find yourself working with header strips to ensure correct placement on the paper. Scrap OHP will work too, I often use unwanted film cut into strips.

I hope this helps.

Keith.
 
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Davec101

Davec101

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Dave and Don

Todd Gangler uses a image setter for his negs, CMYK, up until a few years ago , not sure if that is the case today
John Bentley an old friend of mine in Toronto, prints Ultrastabe and in fact he and Todd were given the **info ** on how to presensitize the tissue. He use to get his film from Todd and then registered himself, not sure if he found a local scanner , image setter person here in Toronto yet.

Both print onto a melemex type matereial in reverse and then transfer onto heavy weight paper in one pass.


I spent a week printing ultra stable onto Melemex at Main Photo workshops a life time ago .
The set up was very hokey at Maine and the conditions to print unrealistic which was a very bad first experience with the process.
At that time the fact you needed to go to a separator for scans, and output really turned me off and I never persued the process.
The guy who taught the class produced in Practice, as good density, colour and contrast as anything I have seen from T Gangler or J Bentley, basically his photography was not as impressive.
I do not remember his name, but Charles Berger supplied all the material needed and it is indeed a simple process to learn. But you do need the right humidity , temp, registration, working room to produce work that equals Gangler or Bentley.

The trick to my thinking, or snag is the issue of making your own tissue and then controlling the sensitizing of the tissue at time of printing, this throws in a whole can of whoopass for any worker.
Richard Sullivan of B&S is indeed trying to make the presensitized tissue and has a small beta group in NM working with him.
THIS IS THE NUT OF IT ALL, HOW TO MAKE PRESENSITIZED TISSUE, ONCE OR IF HE SOLVES THIS ISSUE , ITS A VERY BIG DEAL IN MAKING THE PRINTING WORKFLOW A PREDICTALBE PROCESS.

I hope Sandy dosen't mind, but in his living room there are a couple of very good tri colour carbons that predate both T Gangler and J Bentley and the Ultra Stable process. I am sure Sandy sensitized at time of printing and made his own tissues, but I will leave that for him to chip in if he wants.

I have seen the fressons and you are right Dave they do not equal T Ganglers or J Bentleys work for photographic reality, but they are quite beautiful on their own. I would suggest what is impressive is the full photographic quality of their work and if that is what one is aiming for then I think the Ultra Stable Process stands out.
I should point out some the best work I ever saw in this multiple colour printing was Steven Livik's multiple gum carnaval series., in fact it has always perplexed me why he did not persue this type of image presentation as I was totally blown away with the quality.
It has been years since I saw his prints., for a long time they were hanging in a Toronto Camera Shop and I always tried to buy them from unsuspecting camera salesman , who thought the work was shit.

What is significant to this discussion for me at least is the use of the K mask to produce top quality work and the problem of sensitising the colour tissues for carbon work. I now have the scanners , registration, output devices for film and see the pre sensitizing the tissue the only issue. Until someone smarter than me can solve this I am onto cmyk GUM and happy to do so . I am really hoping this discussion will spark some interest in workers to look into multiple colour carbon and maybe figure out the sensitizing issue of the tissue.


Don I got my strosser on my Trip to SC and am a really happy camper, remember all the plate burners have a rubber blanket to allow the pins to sink and keep the film in wonderful contact, once this is figured out picking the type of pin set up that will work with your exposing unit becomes pretty easy.
I like the Strosser because allows for a thick punch , is very robust, I like the oblong , circle , oblong punch that allows for some breathing room when laying down the films, and the pins go nicely in a Nuark exposing system.


One thing that I should say and wonder how all you feel.
I have seen a lot of work over the years in Alt process and I have to say the best work I seem to gravitate to or like is the smooth papers and not the heavy weight papers.
With that in mind mounting the paper to melemix or aluminum and then printing directly to the paper like Mr Penns work is IMHO the very best way to go.
I think a much more detailed , bold print can be made, not dissing the warm and fuzzy pics but that is my personal choice.

Off to Philedelphia in a couple of weeks to pick Christina Andersons brain on the the basic set up on tri colour gum. Taking two other workers with me and hope to get an good overview of the requirements to make gum.

Thanks Bob for writing such a detailed reply, i have only just had a chance to read it. It answers a number of questions I had regarding the colour carbon process. Do you know how far Richard has got with the pre-sensitised tissue?
 

Bob Carnie

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Dave that is a question for Richard, as I am not in the loop though I wish him every success.
 
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Davec101

Davec101

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I finally got around to viewing the print I mentioned the original post. Its 40x30 inch pigment transfer print. Looked pretty good however would have liked to have seen it with no glass. I was told that a printer in Los Angeles made it. Bob you got any ideas of who the printer is? They have a new print up this month which is also saw by the same printer, again 40x30 inches, this looked impressive.

Link : http://shop.showstudio.com/item.php?id=145&nocache=1&startrow=0
 
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Davec101

Davec101

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I finally got around to viewing the print I mentioned in the original post. Its 40x30 inch pigment transfer print. Looked pretty good however would have liked to have seen it with no glass. I was told that a printer in Los Angeles made it. Bob you got any ideas of who the printer is? They have a new print up this month which I also viewed by the same printer (See link), again 40x30 inches, this looked impressive.

Link : http://shop.showstudio.com/item.php?id=145&nocache=1&startrow=0
 

Bob Carnie

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Dave

no idea whatsoever, I would bet it is an inkjet print, I think Todd Gangler or John Bentley could make this print with their four colour carbon process but you say it is someone from Los Angeles??. The print on screen does not show texture which is not in the vein of work both of them like .
If it is a real pigment print then kudos to the printer.
N Knight is pretty well known and would be able to afford this print but looking at his gallery on your link my guess is inkjet.
I would be interested in the printer process. Earlier in past threads , I mentioned that I was taught for a week by a colour carbon printer *today he would be in early mid fiftys*who was from LA. His work was every bit as excellent as T Gangler or John Bentley except both John and Todd , transfer their prints to heavy rag and I believe add a gelatin coating for protection. The work by this printer was directly onto Melimex and was more photographic looking than the heavy rag prints being done in Carbon by the other two I mention.
Maybe its the same guy, if so a wonderful person and was really open with his methods. He was in very good terms with Mr Berger and possibly has the trick to make pre sensitized tissue as well as the two other. This printers work was primaraly large format , rocks, trees, water , movment, gag, pretty tones gag, work, not anything like this N Knight character.
If Maine Photographic Workshops keep a history of all the years then I would suggest around 92-94 as a good starting point. He taught only one year because there were so many complaints about the facilities needed to do carbon it was a joke, we all threatened to leave the first night after seeing the cave we had to work in with paper punch for registration. John Bentley was staying on and off with me at this time just before he left on his magic bus to Mexico , he saw a couple of pitiful prints I made and maybe this was enough for him to see the benifit, not sure.
My first stirrings of this process at Maine was so strained I decided not to persue *possible mistake* but I am a complete control freak, I could not imagine sending out film for scanning and seperating four films, and this was in the day when high end scanners and image setters*no inkjet* were so expensive I could not financially commit to this process with no clients willing to pay the high price of well done carbons. I already had a viable black and white printing business for photographers and this direction would have destroyed my clientele.
So John won't give up the secret, neither will Todd, maybe someone here has the chops to figure out how to presensitize the tissue, until then I am pursuing tri - colour gum over some kind of black printer. The basics are quite easy as I learned over a weekend with Cristina Anderson. Now the hard work in making a thousand gums to perfect a workflow I like and could be proud of selling to my clientele.

Bob

I finally got around to viewing the print I mentioned in the original post. Its 40x30 inch pigment transfer print. Looked pretty good however would have liked to have seen it with no glass. I was told that a printer in Los Angeles made it. Bob you got any ideas of who the printer is? They have a new print up this month which I also viewed by the same printer (See link), again 40x30 inches, this looked impressive.

Link : http://shop.showstudio.com/item.php?id=145&nocache=1&startrow=0
 
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Davec101

Davec101

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Dave

no idea whatsoever, I would bet it is an inkjet print, I think Todd Gangler or John Bentley could make this print with their four colour carbon process but you say it is someone from Los Angeles??. The print on screen does not show texture which is not in the vein of work both of them like .
If it is a real pigment print then kudos to the printer.
N Knight is pretty well known and would be able to afford this print but looking at his gallery on your link my guess is inkjet.
I would be interested in the printer process. Earlier in past threads , I mentioned that I was taught for a week by a colour carbon printer *today he would be in early mid fiftys*who was from LA. His work was every bit as excellent as T Gangler or John Bentley except both John and Todd , transfer their prints to heavy rag and I believe add a gelatin coating for protection. The work by this printer was directly onto Melimex and was more photographic looking than the heavy rag prints being done in Carbon by the other two I mention.
Maybe its the same guy, if so a wonderful person and was really open with his methods. He was in very good terms with Mr Berger and possibly has the trick to make pre sensitized tissue as well as the two other. This printers work was primaraly large format , rocks, trees, water , movment, gag, pretty tones gag, work, not anything like this N Knight character.
If Maine Photographic Workshops keep a history of all the years then I would suggest around 92-94 as a good starting point. He taught only one year because there were so many complaints about the facilities needed to do carbon it was a joke, we all threatened to leave the first night after seeing the cave we had to work in with paper punch for registration. John Bentley was staying on and off with me at this time just before he left on his magic bus to Mexico , he saw a couple of pitiful prints I made and maybe this was enough for him to see the benifit, not sure.
My first stirrings of this process at Maine was so strained I decided not to persue *possible mistake* but I am a complete control freak, I could not imagine sending out film for scanning and seperating four films, and this was in the day when high end scanners and image setters*no inkjet* were so expensive I could not financially commit to this process with no clients willing to pay the high price of well done carbons. I already had a viable black and white printing business for photographers and this direction would have destroyed my clientele.
So John won't give up the secret, neither will Todd, maybe someone here has the chops to figure out how to presensitize the tissue, until then I am pursuing tri - colour gum over some kind of black printer. The basics are quite easy as I learned over a weekend with Cristina Anderson. Now the hard work in making a thousand gums to perfect a workflow I like and could be proud of selling to my clientele.

Bob

Hi Bob

I will try and get some more information but I am sure it was not an inkjet, the person who spoke to me definitely new the difference between an inkjet and pigment transfer print.
 
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