Depends on a) the contrast ratio you're aiming for to achieve the desired effect b) the hair color (light hair vs. dark hair) and the background. As far as how many stops, it's hard to say, because each situation is different. Just make sure you're working within the latitude of the stock you're using. In my opinion, nothing looks worse than blown-out blondes.
Exactly!! Thats what I was figuring that maybe 1 to 2 ratio would be good, or 1 to 3 ratio would work too. Just trying to achieve a nice ribbon of light along the side of the figure.
if you're using photofloods, you can work down using a scrim (metal window screen material) on a c-stand w/arm. Dimmers can work too, but I find it better to control the right amount of light by layering scrims. As far as contrast ratio are you following the K+F /F (F= no key) formula? If so, my general rule of thumb for blondes/white hair in front of a solid (darker color bg) is you want your hair light to match the key. Marlyn Monroe blonde = match key; strawberry blonde = a little more playing room, but never by more than a full stop over (or one under on the high-end of my workable latitude) unless I'm going for an Orwellian Citizen Kane look, say an 8:1: I'd like my hairlight to be be 1 1/3-2/3 over key.
forgot to mention: contrast ratio in exponent form eg: 2^2 = 4 (2 stops)
I don't know if this thread is still hot or if you've found a solution to your problem, but here's my two cents:
A hair light like a kicker is an effects light. These can usually be judged by eye, empirically. Therefore, just do a test or gain a bit of experience after a couple of shoots. Here's a recent test I did. I should've shaded the ear. Plus, next time with this kind of subject, I may use a hair light (I'm relatively OK with just a kicker here, other than the hot ear). See what I mean?
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