POTA is an excellent developer for Tech Pan and similar films . 1.5 grams of Phenidone and 30 grams of NaSO3 per liter. See the paper by Marilyn Levy of Rome Air Base in the 1970s.
That’s not really the point, yes I could absolutely do that but I’d rather mess around and see what I can get to work with this stuff.The results with very slow copy or technical film are generally disappointing. Better is to use one of the newer-generation T-grain films such as T-Max 100 or Delta 100. Very slow films have very restricted latitude.
That’s not really the point, yes I could absolutely do that but I’d rather mess around and see what I can get to work with this stuff.
because I do this for fun? It’s not like I do this because I need to, if I need a picture I get out my phone and I take a picture. I am absolutely not looking for perfect results. I’m just having fun with some cheap film and a developer that I found online that’s meant to be used for film like this.Why? It's not worth the trouble.
Yes, I’ve heard that, I also have the ingredients to make it, but it actually requires more developing agents than the H&W control stuff, and doesn’t last as long.You might try POTA as well as a comparison. It's intended to be mixed right before use and used one shot.
There is only 2 ingredients to POTA, doesn't get much simpler than that!Yes, I’ve heard that, I also have the ingredients to make it, but it actually requires more developing agents than the H&W control stuff, and doesn’t last as long.
Well yeah, but whereas POTA requires 1.5g of Phenidone to make 1L of working solution that lasts an hour at best, H&W control requires 0.83g to make 100ml of concentrate that can make 1.6L of working solution and, if you use the 2 part PG recipe I am using, will last indefinitely… H&W definitely uses the chems more efficiently, and considering how expensive Phenidone is, that is very desirable.There is only 2 ingredients to POTA, doesn't get much simpler than that!
Well, the first test went extremely well! I’m seeing an acceptable level of density and contrast at EI 100. For reference, this is (probably) the same as Washi S, and I have found in normal development using their times it makes thinner negs that are still extremely high in contrast.
Strips below have bracketed exposures at 1 stop intervals starting from the top at EI 12.
Nothing super complicated, I mixed up some H&W working solution from concentrate, and processed it for 15 minutes at 20°, agitating for the first 30 seconds then 10 seconds every 3 minutes. EI 64-80 seems best IMO, but you can probably get away with a little higher if you want.Please share details of your exposure and processing test details; I'm very interested in the Washi-S tests because That is, I suspect, what FPP's Sonic 25 is. Maybe also the Sonic 12... Terry
pale orange
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