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Guidelines to change the outcome during processing

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hoakin1981

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So a couple of weeks ago I processed my very 1st 135 film. TMAX 400 in HC-110, at 22c for 4:40', 10 inversions for the first 30sec. and 4 inversions per minute. I think it turned out OK more or less for a 1st try. However, I would like to know for future attempts if there are any guidelines of processing in order to achieve different results.

For example if I wanted to create more grain what should I do more inversions or less? Or if I wanted more contrast should I develop for more time? and so on...
 
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hoakin1981

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So...

All other things being equal, more development = more contrast and more graininess. "More" development can be accomplished in several ways. The easiest is to keep everything constant and just extend development time. However to some extent increased agitation also gives you more development, meaning you can theoretically get more development by keeping the time constant and agitating more frequently (or agitating constantly).

So basically if you hold all other variables constant, you can get higher contrast and graininess by extending development time, or increasing agitation or a combination of both.

Just remember the increase in graininess we're talking about here relates to the amount of development taking place, so the relationship between agitation and graininess is indirect. Agitation, in and of itself does not influence graininess. Agitation affects the amount of development taking place in a given amount of time. And more development = increased graininess.

Thanks, so basically there is no way of reducing grain without compromising contrast correct?
 

snapguy

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exact

Umm, I would say it is not an exact science. Years ago I attended a couple of Leica-sponsored Leica Flying ShortCourses where Leica would send reps flying around the country to talk to professional photographers. The Leica people said negatives should be exposed and developed so they had to be printed on Single Grade #4 photo paper. Now, that is too close to disaster for me. Their idea was that the thin negs would give you the least grain. We used to be able to obtain Single Grade paper in #4, #5 an even #6 but even #4 is hard to find these days. Short of joining you in your darkroom no one can do more than give you vague advice. You need to work on it yourself with your chemicals, habits and equipment. God luck.
 

Terry Christian

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Thanks, so basically there is no way of reducing grain without compromising contrast correct?

TMAX 400 is not a grainy film, so if you do consider it grainy, I'd suggest altering your expectations, although scanning instead of printing can be misleading in that respect.

To reduce grain when everything else is equal, you could try switching the type of developer, like to a solvent developer if you weren't using one already.
 

jvo

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i'm not good at "reading" negatives, other than in a general way - dark areas , light- the light areas , dark... a contact sheet and/or the resultant print is the true measure of the characteristics of the negative.

jvo
 

Gerald C Koch

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i'm not good at "reading" negatives, other than in a general way - dark areas , light- the light areas , dark... a contact sheet and/or the resultant print is the true measure of the characteristics of the negative.

jvo

The skill of "reading" negatives is one that is learned from experience. Start by comparing different negatives with straight prints on your usual paper grade.
 

cliveh

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Agitation of the tank is more important at the start of development and less as development time progresses.
 

chwhitaker

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Also, be careful of short development times. The shorter the time, the more difficult it is to prevent uneven development. I believe your time of 4:40 is pretty low. Maybe try 20 degrees and a longer time?


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