Great western USA trip (and a bit of NYC)

[Raphael]

Leningrad cowboys...Err... Euro Apugers go America
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Well, if WW-third isn't started then, we have planned a grand tour of USA during August 2017.

Briefly speaking, we should :
- land on San-Francisco, resting for a few days visiting, from an hotel downtown.
- take on domestic flight to Las Vegas (no visit planned), getting a rent car here and heading north-east, for a road-trip for:
- visiting Bryce Canyon and around, staying a few days
- heading East, and with a stopover near Lake Powell, possibly visiting Antelope Canyon, depending on weather/crowd/etc.
- another hop, and visiting Monument Valley and around.
- Taking road again, going North through Utah, until Salt Lake City for a rest.
- Going North by road again, and a few days are planned in Yellowstone
- Now back South until Idaho Falls, where we should attend the Great USA Eclipse of sun, August 21th
- Back to Salt Lake City for a night.
- taking domestic flight here, and going to NYC
- resting and visiting New-York (Manhattan), before going back home from JFK airport.

So, I'm seeking any general travel advices, comments, suggestions from fellows APUGers, about things to do and to see, to don't and to not see, to visit, customs to abid, things to eat (or not eat !), etc. Oh I forgot, all of this should be "family compatible"

I will probably use only analog cameras, 35mm and MF, any advices are welcome, about managing films, going through domestic flights controls, on--stay processing or not, etcetera.

Also, any hints and informations about Analog Photographers watering holes will be greatly appreciated (where to buy films, great places for second hand gear, and so on...).

In advance, many thanks !

 

[Nodda Duma]

Advice #1: In mid-August it will be extremely hot and dry in the desert areas. Please purchase plenty of water in Vegas and have enough with you for whenever you hike away from the car. Stay hydrated so that your vacation doesn't turn into a nightmare.

Otherwise have fun.

 

[guangong]

Raphael, be sure to make a brief stop at B&H.

 

[Rick A]

I would opt for Moab instead of the first trip to SLC, Arches and Canyonlands are there. Then head north to Yellowstone.

 

[jeffreyg]

Plus 1 on Moab added to Rick A - Dead Horse Point Overlook, when heading north from Monument Valley toward Moab there is also Hovenweep (east of Blanding) and Natural Bridges. Not too far from Las Vegas is Zion National Park just to mention a few and since you will be in San Francisco there is also Muir Woods which would be an easy back and forth drive. It will no doubt be hot in Utah and the popular sites will be crowded but they are spectacular. Take plenty of film and a tripod if possible. You should have no problem with film at the airports but only keep it in carry-ons and you can request hand checks.
Have fun.

http://www.jeffreyglasser.com/

 

[rorye]

San Francisco has a great camera/film store, Glass Key Photo on Haight Street.

 

[keenmaster486]

When you're in Idaho, here are some places you could see if you're feeling adventurous

-Twin Falls: Snake River canyon and the Perrine Bridge - the only place in the U.S. where BASE jumping is allowed with no permit
-Craters of the Moon - someday this will be a National Park, fingers crossed.
-Sun Valley - Notable for being one of the first winter ski resorts in the U.S., and also having the first ski lift in the world. The Wood River Valley is an amazing place - if you're looking for aspen trees try Chocolate Gulch.
-Stanley - in the heart of the Sawtooth Mountain range lies the Sawtooth Valley and the tiny mining town of Stanley. This is an absolutely beautiful place to take pictures; there are numerous hikes and trails that will take you to wonderful places. (this is where my ancestors are from btw, they came there during the gold rush in the 1870's )

These are probably way out of your way but I had to try

 

[Sirius Glass]

I would opt for Moab instead of the first trip to SLC, Arches and Canyonlands are there. Then head north to Yellowstone.

What he said.

 

[Raphael]

Thanks to all for reading and advices.

@Nodda Duma : Yes, I expect this, but with underestimation, so a reminder isn't superfluous.
@Rick A , @jeffreyg, @Sirus Glass : a stop to Moab, and a visit to Arches was once envisaged, but sadly we have enough time. We had to make choices ! Next time, maybe.


@rorye, @guangong : thanks, I wrote it down.

@keenmaster486 : thanks for all theses suggestions, even if base jumping is probably a little too "aventurous" for us

I discover with your post that "Craters of the Moon" is indeed a National Monument not a National Park... I don't know what this nuance actually means

I wonder also if this place worth a visit, since it's not too far from eclipse central line.

Thanks again,

Raphael

 

[Rick A]

Raphael, I understand your dilemma with time. I could spend the rest of my life in the Southwestern USA, and still not see everything I would want to. I lived out there for many years, sadly had to work most of the time, and didn't even get a good start(though my ex wife and kids would disagree).

 

[wy2l]

My opinion: Pass on Bryce, must see is Zion.
Yellowstone is wonderful, but Grand Teton (just to the south of Yellowstone) is a jewel not to be missed.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I discover with your post that "Craters of the Moon" is indeed a National Monument not a National Park... I don't know what this nuance actually means

A national monument is declared by a president under the Antiquities Act. A national park is created by Congress. A nation monument is not given any funds unless authorized by Congress, if not the Interior Department works on ways to take care of it. A national monument may be changed to a national park.

 

[mmerig]

- Now back South until Idaho Falls, where we should attend the Great USA Eclipse of sun, August 21th

The word around town and newspapers say that lodging along the eclipse path in the Idaho Falls area is totally booked up, and the same goes for other areas in the region. Campsites, particularly developed campgrounds and informal road-side areas, are expected to be full too. Maybe you know this already, but I thought it was worth mentioning.

 

[keenmaster486]

Here's the eclipse path for Idaho:

Stanley and Ketchum are great places to watch the eclipse! (just saying )

You might try Rexburg - or Rigby, which is between Idaho Falls and Rexburg.

 

[mgb74]

If I understand correctly, you'll be picking up a rental car in Las Vegas and dropping it off in SLC. Typically, one way rental such as this are very expensive and can involve mileage charges.

 

[Jon Shiu]

If you go to Zion, get there early in the morning or you may find yourself in a huge traffic jam.

And in general, avoid something called an Indian fry bread taco.

 

[Two23]

I have some general advice for you. I've lived on the Northern Plains all my life and have run into a number of foreign tourists over the years. Some thoughts. First, the distances here are vast. The towns are often an hour apart (driving 85 mph/137kmh). Cell phone coverage is often very "iffy"--do NOT assume you can just call some one to get help! Keep your gas tank at least half full, and do carry two gallons of water in case you get stuck somewhere. Do not underestimate the distances, or the heat in the Southwest. Many of the roads in the states you mentioned are mountain roads, and travel can be very slow. Finally, here's an interesting story from twenty years ago about some German tourists who got lost in a vast wilderness, and weren't found for nearly 20 years. This isn't common, and you'll be fine if you use good sense. The story is a bit long for internet reading, but it is so fascinating I have to mention it. It is a cautionary tale for what can happen when you underestimate remoteness of the Western wilderness, and aren't prepared. Summer is very, very hot (52 degrees C)--do some research. And always have a couple of gallons of water on hand.

http://www.otherhand.org/home-page/search-and-rescue/the-hunt-for-the-death-valley-germans/


Kent in SD

 

[Theo Sulphate]

...
First, the distances here are vast. The towns are often an hour apart (driving 85 mph/137kmh). Cell phone coverage is often very "iffy"--do NOT assume you can just call some one to get help! ...

...Keep your gas tank at least half full, and do carry two gallons of water in case you get stuck somewhere. Do not underestimate the distances, or the heat in the Southwest. ...

To the good advice above, I'll add this: give yourself extra time in your schedule. I've driven across the U.S., 3000+ miles coast to coast, about four times and it seemed like half the roads were under continuous road repair. Hence delays.

 

[jeffreyg]

After you pick-up your car go to a supermarket and buy a styrofoam cooler, a bag of ice, water, drinks, cups, paper towels and whatever goodies the family likes. It will come in handy on the long drives especially if someone gets hungry and you don't want to go looking for snacks and/or you would rather not stop. We have done that when traveling in that area and when traveling with other people.

http://www.jeffreyglasser.com/

 

[Rick A]

Raphael, if you are going to shoot any B&W when here, be sure to bring a light green or yellow-green filter. It helps make the red rock pop in the photos.

 

[Sirius Glass]

If you go to Zion, get there early in the morning or you may find yourself in a huge traffic jam.

And in general, avoid something called an Indian fry bread taco.

In the summer, not in the spring or fall. In the winter one can have the whole park to themselves, you can PM me to hear about my experience in the winter.

 

[removed account4]

raphael

if you can, on your driving part, get off of the highway and take some of the small roads.
usually there's a lot to see off the superhighway ( comme la france )
if you can take a side trip in south dakota, go to wall drug, its a fun stop, free water, and
you will have seen ads for it on the highway the whole drive. also stop at the pioneer auto village
thousands of automobiles and an airplane hanger FULL of vintage, working PINBALL MACHINES.
sylvan lake in custer SD is heaven on earth ... next to the badlands, its not bad at all.

avez une bonne vacance !
john

 

[Raphael]

Thanks to all of you for you answers and advises. I will try to react further on some of your points.

Raphael, I understand your dilemma with time. I could spend the rest of my life in the Southwestern USA, and still not see everything I would want to. I lived out there for many years, sadly had to work most of the time, and didn't even get a good start(though my ex wife and kids would disagree).

Thanks Rick, I understand what you mean, even if I probably still underestimate the vastness of subject...

I confess I'm little frightened by anticipation about what and how to photography : Given the mythical dimension (for me, at least) of the places, I hope I won't suffer from a "photographer paralysis".

Will I get enough time and inspiration to take something other than saw-a-thousand-times tourist clichés ???
Not that I have such disdain for snapshots (I will be glad to have them !!)...

Also, many thanks for the advice about green filters. This kind of things is precious to know.

 

[Raphael]

Hi all,

@wy2l , @Jon Shiu, @jeffreyg : thanks for your advices !

@mgb74 : yes, we'll pay an additional fee for this, but we'll go with it

@mmerig : thanks for the concern, hopefully , our lodging in Idaho Falls is already booked and secured.

@keenmaster486 : Our exact point for observing eclipse is still to be defined. However, I begin to have a few hints, thanks to "Eclipsophile.com", notably this page : http://eclipsophile.com/idaho/
I think we'll go North in direction of Dubois, until the central line of totality. From what I understand from the site, cloudcover and weather related, it's better to stay down Snake river valley, but maybe it's a mistake.

Stanley seems a beautiful place in itself, however, I'm afraid it's too far away from Idaho Falls and our hotel (I count more than 310km, around 200 miles) not mentioning the probably crowded mountain road.

Kent (@Two23 ) : Many thanks for good advices and the link to this indeed fascinating (and frigthening) story, even if we won't go to Death Valley (not this time !). That's a little long for sure, but gripping and well written enough to pass along. And it provides a lot of learning, notably how even gathered little mistakes can turn a situation really bad. BTW, this guy's whole site is damned interesting ! thanks again.

John (@jnanian ) : thanks for the hint about Wall Drug, didn't know it ! However, I'm afraid going South Dakota will be out of our schedule. We'll have to come back ! Merci !

 

[mmerig]

@keenmaster486[/USER] : Our exact point for observing eclipse is still to be defined. However, I begin to have a few hints, thanks to "Eclipsophile.com", notably this page : http://eclipsophile.com/idaho/
I think we'll go North in direction of Dubois, until the central line of totality. From what I understand from the site, cloudcover and weather related, it's better to stay down Snake river valley, but maybe it's a mistake. !

The eclipse line between Idaho Falls and Dubois is still on the Snake River Plain and has similar weather as Idaho Falls. I think if you left early morning and took Interstate 15 north to the junction with Idaho state Route 33, (locally called Sage Junction), you could find a place near there to view the eclipse. Idaho Falls itself will likely be just nuts -- it is not a place I would want to be.

By mid- to late-August, monsoonal moisture from the Gulf of Mexico is the most likely source of clouds and thunderstorms. Pacific-origin flow in August is typically quite dry. Forest fires west of Idaho Falls are also typical, and dry prevailing westerly winds can carry a lot of smoke. The western USA has had a very wet winter, so this should diminish the chance of smoke ruining the view.

The Sage Junction area may seem like the "middle of nowhere" to people that are not used to wide-open spaces. I suggest this area in case you want to get away from Idaho Falls toward the eclipse line, and there is a truck weigh-station here that serves as a landmark. It is also about 1/4 mile from the totality center-line. Another option, exactly on the eclipse line, is the northern of the two Menan Buttes which is about 11 miles east along highway 33 from Sage Junction, and then a mile or so along a gravel road south of the highway. There is a trail to the top. Menan Buttes are dormant volcanoes. Beaver Dick Park, along the Henry's Fork River, is about 2.5 miles further east along highway 33, and there are restrooms here. My guess is there will be a lot of people from Rexburg on top of the Butte, and Madison County may have portable toilets around (just another guess). Normally, there is rarely anyone there.

I live in Teton Valley, (my home is 0.9 miles from the exact line), and have lived in the Teton Valley (Driggs, Victor, Tetonia) area most of my life, so if you think I can help answer question, PM me.