Hmm...grain of truth...but I would say: Do what you can, but shoot nonetheless. That said, film is not all that difficult to shoot, despite the complexifications that are often introduced here.
The pinhole guys must be laughing.
Dude...you guys are, like, wack or something. He should just shoot digital...dude. C'mon bro...get with the times.
Dude...you guys are, like, wack or something. He should just shoot digital...dude. C'mon bro...get with the times.
Dude...you guys are, like, wack or something. He should just shoot digital...dude. C'mon bro...get with the times.
I agree, Rob. And thinking over our poor soul who started this, without knowing how he is equipped and what he shoots, could we agree that he should go back to basics, skip the grey cards and the spot meters, and just work on using his built-in meter and improve his negatives by recording his development time & temp, making proper contacts sheets, finding his film speed, etc?
Oh, and since he's shooting roll film, maybe he should bracket. That will also tell him about his camera meter's calibration.
I think the poor soul who started this has come to some intelligent conclusions a damn site quicker than many who have been doing it for a lot longer...
So I ask about nikon 85mm f/1.8 vs 85mm f/1.4, and he goes "no comparison, my friend, no comparison. Plus the f/1.4 gives me more DOF at the same aperture!" :rolleyes:
I just meter what I am basing the exposure on remembering that the meter is telling me the exposure that will result in middle grey, or therabouts, and then adjust the exposure to place the subject in the zone I want. After metering about, I might determine that the "correct exposure" doesn't cover the range I am photographing (ie the highlight might blow, or I wont be exposing into the shadows like I want). I will further adjust exposure for the range I need for an adjusted development and printing, to get the photograph I envision.
This is as succinct an explanation of how the Zone System is used in practice as you're likely to see. I don't know if J is a Zone guy or not and that doesn't really matter. If what you're trying to do is learn and use the Zone System, the grey car really only has a role in your testing procedures.
It depends. Most grey cards are made to reflect 18% light only, but their colour might not be really grey, esp. not in any lighting situation.
Doesn't matter in bw photography, but for white balance you should ask the manual wether the grey card is suitable.
Gerd
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