Grafmatics and Septums

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Donald Qualls

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I bought a 1268 4x5 Grafmatic, working, with a working counter (but missing the negative imprint wheel), a week or so ago, and a few days ago, a set of spare septums.

The Grafmatic worked out of the box, cycling through the septums and incrementing the external counter wheel as it should. This despite a couple of the septums having slight kinks that I suspected would prevent loading film sheets (hence ordering a spare set).

I was right, but the spares I had ordered (cheaply) turned out to be worse, every one slightly bent in some way and a couple having similar kinks in the film channels -- after operating this thing a bit, I can see how that would happen; if the septum stack isn't fully down into the well before pushing the carrier home, the frame would land exactly where these kinks are.

I'm a pretty good hand at straightening light gauge metal and quickly had all the visible bends smoothed out so the stack of spares would sit flat and steady, and after checking with scrap film sheets I located and corrected the kinks in the channels as well (the edge of a knife slipped into the channel does a fine job of lifting the kink). Great! I now have twelve flat septums that will accept film sheets without undue effort, and hold it secure and flat (all of the little spring tabs are in fine shape).

Except that now, both stacks, seemingly regardless of order, act like they're too long. If I slip them into the well one at a time (after latching the pusher tab), they'll drop flat, second, third, and fourth, with a little care, will still drop flat -- and then the fifth hangs, acts like it's a hair too long. This is with both the septums that came with the Grafmatic (which loaded into the well and cycled when it arrived) and the (straightened) spares.

Now, I know the standard wisdom is "you can't straighten those things, just throw them away and buy a new set."

Which was great advice when a set of these cost five bucks, and they were still making them (about the time I learned to operate an adjustable camera and develop film, if not a bit before). The few that are on eBay now are about nine bucks each in a ten-pack, and though the pictures are better, it's hard to be certain they're in new condition.

Does anyone know what I have wrong with these septums that causes them to be too long only when four are already in the magazine? I've checked; the way the springs work, a Grafmatic apparently can't cycle if a single septum is missing, and in any case, I can't get even the fifth one into the well, or if I do, it's so tight it won't move. Just forget even trying #6.

The obvious, and almost certainly wrong solution is to get a Dremel or similar and take a literal hair's breadth off the open end of each septum -- but without at least hearing from someone who's done this, I'm very inclined to believe that will make something else not work right -- and as they say in the machine shop, you can always take some off later, but it's awfully hard to put metal back.

Help!
 

shutterfinger

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https://learncamerarepair.com/product.php?product=133&category=2&secondary=28
or you can send it to me. I might have a film imprint wheel somewhere but am not willing to go look for it at the moment.
Place the septums on short end on a flat surface and verify that all are the same length. Lay a straight edge across the septum and verify it is flat.
Verify the film is fully inserted into the septum and held in place. Film should not slip or change position in the septum unless you do the repositioning.
 

Sirius Glass

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Listen to shutterfinger. Also there is a sliding piece that may need to be moved out of the way, if I remember correctly.
 

peter k.

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Yes there is a sliding piece, but doubt that this is cause of Donald's problem, as he mentions that he continues to try to load "(after latching the pusher tab)"
But just in case, to be sure, verify that there is no obstruction on the dark slide pull end, by running finger along that edge.
 

urnem57

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I have 2 Grafmatics. One I pretty much overhauled myself. Gluing down light trap, cleaning thoroughly, lubricating with a dry bicycle lube. Pedro’s Ice Wax was suggested, but hard to find. It made a big difference in the functionality of the mechanism. It had probably never been cleaned or lubricated in 50 years. The other one needs the felt replaced. That’s been a challenge to find just the right thickness. Any suggestions are welcome. The septums all slid a lot easier once the edges were lubricated. Someone on here suggested Pledge for cleaning and lubricating and said it worked well. Unless they are not factory septum’s, it seems very strange that they would be different sizes. But buying 50 year old gear sight unseen over the internet, well you know the story.
 

shutterfinger

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Sounds like you are putting them in backwards. The closed end goes toward the slide. There are tabs that hold the film in the open end where the cutouts are on the septums.

Also, put them all in at the same time. Much easier that way.
 

Craig

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I ran into this problem very recently when I got a graphmatic for the first time. The trick is the notches in the septums need to be inserted facing away from the counter wheel. If you look at the tray where the septums go, there is a small bump out that the notches need to go into. If you try and insert the septums the other way, i.e. the cutout facing the darkslide, you can get about 4 in the tray and no more.
 
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Donald Qualls

Donald Qualls

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Aha! Septums wrong way!! I would have sworn the videos I've seen had the finger notches toward the counter mechanism end, but there is that little rib, tapered at the lens side, right above the slot that lets the first septum slide out to get pushed to the back. If the finger notches are that way, there'll be the thickness of that rib gained, which will be more than enough. The rib will then help to keep the film pushed fully into the channels.

Yes, all twelve septums are the same size, all hold the film firmly in place (there's that little spring tab at the closed end of each film channel, they're all in very good condition), all are (now) flat and constant thickness. Got the "sliding piece" -- that's the tab that operates the red dot cover, and I've been latching it in the "red dot covered" position; otherwise, it would wind up under the septums.

Gotta leave for work in a few minutes, but I'll have time to try the septums the correct direction after work. @shutterfinger I can send this to you, but probably won't want to once I know it's working with the septums right way around -- I'll take a look at that manual, see what I need to disassemble (needs cleaning and lubrication, anyway), and that's all it needs, I may ask you to sell me an imprint wheel. I think I see the mechanism still in place, but it may be missing the center bearing shaft, if that's separate from the wheel.

Once I have this one figured out, and get paid again or have my tax refund in hand, I plan to get at least one more of these. Even on my Graphic View, this is a lot slicker to use than regular film holders (and as I've commented before, this puts the Speed in Speed Graphic), and seems easier to load as well, though I can envision a situation where a misload could lead to loss of all exposed images plus destruction of remaining sheets if one can't unjam it in the dark. Still, easier to check correct loading before committing, than with a double dark slide.

Something else that occurred to me -- could this thing operate with bare glass plates in place of the septums, or is that a short, straight road to Scratch City?
 

glbeas

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One other quick test is to operate the grafmatic in the vertical orientation, perhaps rapping it a few times on the side as you do it. This will tell you if the septums have any tendency to let the film slip out and cause a jam. Ive learned when this happens in camera to point the camera up and work it gently and most often the film slides back in and it will cycle closed again. Adjusting the pinch point on the septums will help avoid this aggravation.
 

urnem57

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Aha! Septums wrong way!! I would have sworn the videos I've seen had the finger notches toward the counter mechanism end, but there is that little rib, tapered at the lens side, right above the slot that lets the first septum slide out to get pushed to the back. If the finger notches are that way, there'll be the thickness of that rib gained, which will be more than enough. The rib will then help to keep the film pushed fully into the channels.

Yes, all twelve septums are the same size, all hold the film firmly in place (there's that little spring tab at the closed end of each film channel, they're all in very good condition), all are (now) flat and constant thickness. Got the "sliding piece" -- that's the tab that operates the red dot cover, and I've been latching it in the "red dot covered" position; otherwise, it would wind up under the septums.

Gotta leave for work in a few minutes, but I'll have time to try the septums the correct direction after work. @shutterfinger I can send this to you, but probably won't want to once I know it's working with the septums right way around -- I'll take a look at that manual, see what I need to disassemble (needs cleaning and lubrication, anyway), and that's all it needs, I may ask you to sell me an imprint wheel. I think I see the mechanism still in place, but it may be missing the center bearing shaft, if that's separate from the wheel.

Once I have this one figured out, and get paid again or have my tax refund in hand, I plan to get at least one more of these. Even on my Graphic View, this is a lot slicker to use than regular film holders (and as I've commented before, this puts the Speed in Speed Graphic), and seems easier to load as well, though I can envision a situation where a misload could lead to loss of all exposed images plus destruction of remaining sheets if one can't unjam it in the dark. Still, easier to check correct loading before committing, than with a double dark slide.

Something else that occurred to me -- could this thing operate with bare glass plates in place of the septums, or is that a short, straight road to Scratch City?

‘Probably a road to scratch city putting glass plates in there. I have been researching plates, plate making, and just about everything related to the subject and have not seen this mentioned before. Maybe try it with some thin plates and see. I suspect it’s a disaster in the making, though. My take on my Gmatic is, it’s a neat idea and it probably was way more reliable 50 years ago. I don’t think it really saves that much weight or space and if (when?) it jams, you may lose what you have shot. Don’t get me wrong, I still use mine, but I don’t use it when someone else is paying me. Swapping out holders can be just as quick, if you have them easily accessible and have your system down. Of course, your mileage will vary. It was mentioned on another thread on this subject that a couple of way-better-than-me and highly regarded photographers use them all the time. As it seems like most of photography is trial-and-mostly-error, use what works for you.
 
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Donald Qualls

Donald Qualls

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I can easily see how well maintained, clean, and correctly lubricated Grafmatics should be faster than anything involving handling regular film holders -- I do recall, however, that the man who photographed the Hindenburg fire had regular double dark slides -- and had the presence of mind to use only one side of each, to avoid risking a double exposure. With a press shutter, click, pull, push, pull, push, click ought to be possible in under a second, and no chance of starting through the stack again due to the lockout.

Where I see another advantage is that the septums seem easier to load without errors than a regular DDS -- last time I went out, I loaded four film holders, and had two misloads. Same the previous trip, with holders I'd loaded several years before. I just have trouble ensuring the film is fully inserted in the channels in the regular film holders, but with septums, it's in or it's not, no question.
 

urnem57

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That’s pretty smart! I never knew that story of The Hindenburg photog. The best I have come up with so far is that I keep a thin strip of camera tape directly on the holder. After I have shot both sides, the tape goes across the top. This is a tactile (and visual) reminder that both frames have been shot. It works for me, although sometimes the double exposures are pretty cool. I also put exposed holders upside down when they go back in the bag.

Even seasoned pros can make this mistake. I worked as a film loader on many high $$ commercials. On one job, I got a call late at night asking if I could work in the morning. I showed up on set and realized that this was a 1000’ magazine that I had never seen before. This was pre-internet, so I couldn’t just look up how to load this magazine. I called a friend from a pay phone who walked me through it and I wrote down notes. I managed to bumble my way through for the first roll. It wasn’t until later in the day that I learned the film loader originally hired had been loading and reloading exposed film all day long. He was fired after they viewed the dailies and I was called that night. Considering how much it costs per day to shoot a multi million $ commercial, well you get the idea.

As far as loading holders goes, that one can be tricky. I wear one glove when I load holders. Often I think I have them loaded only to find out that one side is not inside the rail. What I do now - with the gloved hand I stick a fingernail under the well and gently flick up the film and make sure both sides are in the rails. If one side is not, it almost always lifts up high enough for me to notice. Some film stocks are trickier than others - Rollei RPX 25 is the thinnest stock I have come across. Two sheets sticking together and/or not loading properly can happen easily. Go slowly - check - double check and the more film you load, the more confident you will become. If anyone else can chime in with their tips or tricks, it would be appreciated. Hope this helps.
 
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Donald Qualls

Donald Qualls

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Good tip on checking the loading -- I don't wear gloves in the darkroom; due to my day job, I have enough loss of sensation in my fingertips that they'd make it nearly impossible to deal with film in the dark. And despite being around 18 years since my first LF exposure, I've probably shot fewer than a hundred frames, combined 9x12 and 4x5.

Was just thinking about glass plates in Grafmatic -- I don't think it would mechanically work, scratches or no; the plate edge isn't rounded over like the closed end of the septum, so the dark slide couldn't get between the plates, and the operation of the Grafmatic is completely dependent on that happening correctly.
 

urnem57

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I don’t wear latex or nitrile gloves. I don’t use the all cotton either. The ones sold online for computer use (cotton/nylon/something or other) blend work better for me.
 
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Donald Qualls

Donald Qualls

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Okay, once I had the septums oriented correctly, all twelve (in sets of six, of course) cycle smoothly, whether loaded with film or not. All twelve hold the film firmly enough it would take quite a bump to dislodge it, but it comes out readily with a tug on the film at the notch. IOW, we have Grafmatic! I hope to get a chance to try it this weekend, presuming I can find the spring back for my Speed Graphic and remount it (there's a Polaroid back jacklegged into place on there now which I'm in process of selling).

Thanks for all the help, everyone -- I was pretty confident in my sheet metal corrections, so it was a little baffling when the septums wouldn't go back in after they'd cycled before I took them out.
 

Sirius Glass

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Every once in a long while I forget and load the septums backwards and say WTF!!
 

urnem57

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The first time I used it I was doing the procedure backwards and pieces of film kept flying out. I thought I had the routine down. I had practiced it. D’oh
 
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Craig

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I ran into the problem when I had loaded the septums with film and they wouldn't go in. Of course, I'm in the dark and that makes it a lot harder to troubleshoot! I ended up having to unload the septums and examine everything in the light.
 

Bill Burk

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Did you forget to push that lever in?
The symptom of that miss, is that only 5 septums will fit under the darkslide. Because the lever is the size of one septum.
I forget its main purpose but probably to make it so the top septum sits above the darkslide for exposure.
 
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