GRAFLEX Super Graphic

[dslater]

Hi all - I just bought a Super Graphic - whoo hoo . My plan for this camera is to mainly use it hand-held or on a monopod. Anyone have any advice? Does anyone else out these use a graphic on a monopod?

Thanks,

Dan

 

[Gatsby1923]

hey Dan, I used my Crown Graphic hand held all the time. It is like a Giant 35mm Range Finder. It is a lot easier to use hand held than you might think.

Dave M

 

[dslater]

hey Dan, I used my Crown Graphic hand held all the time. It is like a Giant 35mm Range Finder. It is a lot easier to use hand held than you might think.

Dave M

Hi Dave,
Thanks for the reply, what speed film do you usually use and what's the slowest shutter speed you feel comfortable shooting at?

Dan

 

[waynecrider]

I did try my old one on a monopod but found I liked it better hand held. Just make sure that if you focus my GG with somewhat outstretched arms you realize that you usually shoot with it against your face if using the wire finder. With the larger format and reduced DOF with the normal lens of 150mm your better off with 400 speed film to get a reasonable shutter speed. I usually shot mine hand held with 90mm.

 

[BrianShaw]

Does anyone else out these use a graphic on a monopod?

Yes, and on a tripod, and held with hands.

 

[Phillip P. Dimor]

I use a 4x5 speed graphic handheld, mostly using the focal plane shutter. Also have a crown graphic w/ 135mm lens that I use handheld as well.
The speed graphic w/ focal plane shutter, I try to stay at 1/125 as my slowest handheld speed. The crown w/ lens in shutter, I'm fine at 1/60th but faster makes me feel better.

I've been meaning to push-process some sheet film. Taking a 400 speed sheet film and pushing it to 1000 w/ acufine might work out pretty well.

The best thing for handheld w/ a graflex imho is a graflex flash bracket. Even better if you have a hot shoe attached to the top w/ a normal everyday flash.
Easier to hold, easier to shoot.

 

[Gatsby1923]

Dan, I mostly use 400 Speed film when hand holding. I have used 100 speed in a pinch but you can be stopped well down and hand hold with ASA 400 film.

 

[dslater]

Dan, I mostly use 400 Speed film when hand holding. I have used 100 speed in a pinch but you can be stopped well down and hand hold with ASA 400 film.

Hmm - I was thinking that was probably the case. I was thinking I'd try some TMAX-400 and process in Pyrocat-MC. From what I've seen on the web, TMAX-400 is the only 400 B&W film that you can expose at box speed. Most people seem to rate HP5+ and Tri-X at EI 250-320.
Too bad there's not fast color film for 4x5, but that's what the monopod is for .

Dan

 

[David A. Goldfarb]

I usually use TXP at 640 in Acufine for handheld 4x5" shooting, or if there's enough light (or flash), I'll use Efke PL100 at 200 in Acufine.

 

[dslater]

I usually use TXP at 640 in Acufine for handheld 4x5" shooting, or if there's enough light (or flash), I'll use Efke PL100 at 200 in Acufine.

Hi David,
I have seen you mention this in another thread. I find it interesting that you can get so much speed out of TXP. Are you push-processing the film? Do you have good shadow detail in zone 3? What grade paper do your negs print on?

Thanks,

Dan

 

[David A. Goldfarb]

Acufine is a speed developer (Microphen is another one) that can usually get you about a stop over the box speed with most films. 640 is an honest speed that gives good shadow detail and slightly less than normal contrast (as opposed to pushing in a normal developer, which will produce poor shadow detail and higher than normal contrast). I usually target my Acufine negs to grade 3 or so to keep the grain reasonable.

 

[AFSmity]

Don't know much about using it handheld, but I wanted to say congrats on the super graphic. I just got one of my own after trolling the auction site for months!

 

[newsphotog]

Those old Graflex beasts are fantastic. I've had a few for a number of years- but unfortunately, I've never been able to use the one that I think would be the perfect size- the 3.25x4.25.

I could never find a carrier to fit into the enlarger and never really felt like chopping down 4x5 to make the sheets. It's a shame, because it's a great little camera!

 

[waynecrider]

Those old Graflex beasts are fantastic. I've had a few for a number of years- but unfortunately, I've never been able to use the one that I think would be the perfect size- the 3.25x4.25.

I could never find a carrier to fit into the enlarger and never really felt like chopping down 4x5 to make the sheets. It's a shame, because it's a great little camera!

I think 3x4 is a really nice format. Back in the day when you could get the film pre-cut it was easier then cutting film down, but most of the complaint is it takes longer, not that is is hard. For the format size it still gives the ability for very large prints and the neg carriers are nicely smaller and it's easier to carry more of them and in a smaller bag

You could always use black mat board for a carrier. Just use a neg carrier as a template. I've seen quite a few 3x4 carriers for the Omega line available at auction.

 

[newsphotog]

You could always use black mat board for a carrier. Just use a neg carrier as a template. I've seen quite a few 3x4 carriers for the Omega line available at auction.

That is a great idea! Can't believe I never thought of it.
I may have to try that out.

 

[dslater]

Well I finally got me camera - quite an adventure. The one I originally bought on ebay came but was quite incomplete - no focusing cam, no sports finder, no battery cover. Fortunately, the seller was reasonable and agreed to take it back. I then went to ritzcam.com and bought a super graphic there. That camera arrived yesterday and is great - has everything but the battery cover which I have found elsewhere.
I had originally planned on using some of the lenses I currently have on the super graphic. However, I'm not so sure how well they will work. I have a 135mm f/5.6 Rodenstock APO Sironar-S and a 90mm f/6.8 Caltar II-N that I had planned to use. The problem is that these modern lenses stick out quite quite a bit from the back of the lens board. I suspect that with one of these lenses mounted, I won't be able to slide the front standard into the back to close the camera.
The camera came with a 135mm Xenar lens. Would the cam for that lens also work with the 135mm Rodenstock? The reason I wonder is that the Rodenstock's entrance and exit pupils are probably located in different places on the2 different lenses.

Dan