Yes, If you move the mirror up, all it takes is a gentle nudge btw and it goes up and the shutter releases.
Excellent!
What I want you to try first is increasing the tension on the mirror spring. On the left side of the camera (shutter release side) there is a round plate with 3 screws in line with the H lever center.
With the mirror in released remove any 2 screws of the 3 on the plate, block the plate from moving by putting a small drill bit in one of the two screw holes, remove the third screw, usung an adjustable spanner, small needle nose pliers or similar turn the plate clockwise until the mirror is full up then continue advancing until the screw holes line up then reinstall the screws and test.
If that does not work then release the tension, remove the plate and spring paying attention to the springs orientation then swap ends with the spring so that the end that was in the mirror shaft is now in the slot of the plate. Most plates have two slots for the spring end. Only one combination of spring end and slot will work.
The body is Mahogany which is soft and strips out easily. To fix a striped screw hole, cut the end off a round wood toothpick so that it fits snugly in the hole, dip the trimed end in wood glue then press into the stripped hole and cut flush with the case. Let the glue set 5 to 10 minutes then make start hole in the center of the dowel and start the screw. You will have to drill a start hole if the glue dries completely as the dowel (toothpick) will be very hard.
The camera serial number is behind the view hood along the top, it is six digits.
The handle is riveted on via straps at each end. Remove one lower view hood brace retainer bracket screw and loosen the other one 1/2 turn, pull the loose end of the bracket outward then slide the view hood brace from under the other bracket. The view hood should release from the view screen easily, sit the view hood in a safe place. Drill out the flanged end of the rivets or cut them off with a rotary tool and cut off wheel. Use a pin punch and drive the rivets out of the view hood door supporting it to prevent breakage. Save any parts of the handle retainer strap and the flat washers. I get leather scraps from a local Tandy Leather store and cut a new handle from scratch. The origonal handle has 3 layers, base, center that is shorter and tapered for the finger area, and a top piece the full length with all 3 stiched together. A single layer of 1/8 inch leather is adaquate. The retainer straps are pieces of leather that go over the handle and allow the handle to slide under them without allowing the flared ends to come out from under them.
Or try a premade luggage/trunk handle from
http://www.brettunsvillage.com/trunks/howto/parts/handles/
A TH2 or TH13 may work.
Replace the rivets with #2 Brass screws and nuts and reuse the origonal flat washers.
https://www.boltdepot.com/Machine_screws_Slotted_round_head_Brass_2-56.aspx
They will need to be 5/8 inch long or longer cut down once installed.
Assembly of the view hood is reverse of removal.
