Graflex Cameras are amazing!

A street portrait

A
A street portrait

  • 0
  • 0
  • 54
A street portrait

A
A street portrait

  • 1
  • 0
  • 54
img746.jpg

img746.jpg

  • 4
  • 0
  • 57
No Hall

No Hall

  • 1
  • 2
  • 62
Brentwood Kebab!

A
Brentwood Kebab!

  • 1
  • 1
  • 118

Recent Classifieds

Forum statistics

Threads
198,790
Messages
2,780,868
Members
99,704
Latest member
Harry f3
Recent bookmarks
0

Pioneer

Member
Joined
May 29, 2010
Messages
3,879
Location
Elko, Nevada
Format
Multi Format
I am putting this under Medium Format Cameras and Accessories because the three specific cameras I am referring to in this thread are using 2.25x3.25 inch sheet film which are considered medium format but I also use several of these same types of camera that use 4x5 large format film.

Lately I have been clearing out some of the many cameras that I currently own so I have been opening up some old and dusty boxes on my shelves. In one of these boxes were three Graflex 6x9 cameras. One is a Speed Graphic and the other two are Graflex RB Series B cameras. Now, as I said, I do own a Graflex RB and a few Crown Graphics in 4x5 that I use from time to time, but I haven't used these three cameras for quite some time, maybe since I picked them up years ago.

One thing I like to do before I get ready to sell anything is check things out and determine what works and what doesn't. If it doesn't work, why not and will it be easy to fix. If it does work then how well. Are there problems like slow shutters, light leaks, etc. that may have to be resolved if you wanted to use them. Most of the time with these older cameras, particularly if I haven't used them in a long time if I even used them at that time.

So, I pulled these cameras out and did some preliminary testing. They all look a bit rough around the edges with scuffs and dings. Surprise! The shutters all seemed to work and sounded to be somewhat close to what they needed to be for a decent exposure. The lenses weren't bad and the bellows did not leak any light. So I dug around some more and found some film holders for the cameras.

I am not sure how old these cameras are but both Graflex Series B cameras have Graflex backs. That would indicate that they were built sometime before World War II. They were nice cameras in their day because they have rotating backs but the film accessories are harder to find. Irregardless I decided to try them out so I loaded some sheet film into one of the Grafmatic Film Holders, went outside and shot 6 shots. In the process I accidentally exposed one sheet to the sun when I removed the film holder without checking that that sheet had been returned into the film holder.

The conclusion to this particular story, which is already far too long, is that all five of the sheets that were normally exposed turned out fine. Yep, you heard right. We are talking about a pre-war Graflex that has not been touched in a number of years and, as far as I am aware, has not been taken apart and serviced in quite a long time. The shutter cloth looks old and fragile so I seriously doubt that they have been changed, maybe since these cameras were new. Yet everything turned out great.

Now I am certainly not an expert on these cameras but just how amazing is it that this very, very old camera basically focused and exposed the film perfectly. Then, just to take things another step, I tested the second Graflex today and the film came out great. So now I am two for two with the Speed Graphic to be tested last, probably tomorrow.

To me this is an amazing result for cameras that were definitely put together well before I was born. I fiddle around with old cameras all the time and I cannot remember when I film tested one where there wasn't some problem that had to be corrected. Yet these worked perfectly the first time out. I am impressed. Needless to say I think I will hold onto these for awhile as they are amazingly nice to use.
 

Donald Qualls

Subscriber
Joined
Jan 19, 2005
Messages
12,293
Location
North Carolina
Format
Multi Format
They built them to last back in the day. Bulky and heavy, but they had to be big to make high quality images on the film they could make then (2x3 format was on the small side in the days of contact prints). Overbuilt, because press photographers would punish their equipment -- the negative was more important than the camera; you could replace a camera (for a price) but you might never get another chance to see FDR standing behind a podium, telling everyone it was going to be okay, or a B-17 that came home with most of the rudder shot off.
 
OP
OP
Pioneer

Pioneer

Member
Joined
May 29, 2010
Messages
3,879
Location
Elko, Nevada
Format
Multi Format
darn, I thought you were taking them out to sell...
Sorry...

...maybe later :D

I am still having too much fun "testing them out."
 

removed account4

Subscriber
Joined
Jun 21, 2003
Messages
29,832
Format
Hybrid
Hi Dan
I have a Series D ( RB ) and it has been one of my favorite cameras to use since bought it in 96' :smile:. I got it from this camera collector seller who used to have one of those 2 page ad spreads in "shutterbug magazine". These old graflex slr's a prefectly weighted and a dream to use. I hope you enjoy using yours for as long as you don't need the money from selling it :smile:. They are great portrait cameras :smile:
John
 
OP
OP
Pioneer

Pioneer

Member
Joined
May 29, 2010
Messages
3,879
Location
Elko, Nevada
Format
Multi Format
They built them to last back in the day. Bulky and heavy, but they had to be big to make high quality images on the film they could make then (2x3 format was on the small side in the days of contact prints). Overbuilt, because press photographers would punish their equipment -- the negative was more important than the camera; you could replace a camera (for a price) but you might never get another chance to see FDR standing behind a podium, telling everyone it was going to be okay, or a B-17 that came home with most of the rudder shot off.

You are right about that. Over 4 pounds though the size doesn't make it seem like they should be.

Slow though.
  • Insert the film holder in the back and lock it in. (This is a Graflex back, the Spring back and Graflock back were easier to use.)
  • Set the lens aperture at f4.5.
  • Focus the camera by looking through the focus hood on top of the camera as you adjust the bellows back and forth.
  • Determine your exposure using a handheld meter (or by sunny 16 if you are so inclined.)
  • Reset the lens aperture to your exposure aperture.
  • Set the shutter gap. (Based on the shutter chart on the side of the camera.)
  • Set the shutter tension. (Based on the shutter chart on the side of the camera.)
  • Finally! Press the small lever on the side to fire the shutter. (Don't get your hands or fingers in the way of the rotating knobs on the side.)
  • RATS!! I forgot to pull the dark slide. Reset the shutter lever and go back to the step where you set the shutter gap and start over.
  • NOW pull the dark slide.
  • Press the shutter lever...WAIT!!! The sun just went behind a cloud. Either wait for the sun to come back out or recalculate and set your exposure.
  • NOW PRESS THE SHUTTER LEVER...QUICK! And hope you didn't get any movement blur because you moved the camera when you desperately stabbed a the shutter lever.
  • Replace the dark slide.
  • Reset the lever on the side so you can see through the mirror again.
  • Flip the film holder so you can start this all over again. :D (I do have a couple of Grafmatics but they don't really help to speed things up.)
Of course if you use this camera enough you do get faster but it is never 35mm fast. I have gotten fairly proficient with my Graflex RBA 4x5. And though it isn't critical, it is easier to do all this while the camera is on a tripod. But it can be used handheld if you are so inclined and handy. But this is certainly a camera which gives you lots of time to change your mind. These are definitely the type of camera where you need to use them all the time to get proficient with them.

I do enjoy working with these cameras but I seriously doubt they would ever replace my Pentax K1000 although I am pretty sure the image quality would be higher if only because of the negative size.
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
Pioneer

Pioneer

Member
Joined
May 29, 2010
Messages
3,879
Location
Elko, Nevada
Format
Multi Format
Hi Dan
I have a Series D ( RB ) and it has been one of my favorite cameras to use since bought it in 96' :smile:. I got it from this camera collector seller who used to have one of those 2 page ad spreads in "shutterbug magazine". These old graflex slr's a prefectly weighted and a dream to use. I hope you enjoy using yours for as long as you don't need the money from selling it :smile:. They are great portrait cameras :smile:
John
That is great John.
I have a neat little (no, not really so little) Graflex RB Auto that is wonderful for close ups and portraits. I had it completely renovated by SK Grimes (back when they did that kind of thing) and I have never regretted what I spent to have it done. It is an awesome camera and I have a Protar, a Tessar and Petzval that I use with it. (Speaking of portraits that Petzval is a hoot.)
I used the camera on my month long trip along the Nevada portion of the California Trail that took me from Raft River, Idaho into Lassen Park in California. It produced some truly amazing pictures and was marvelous to use. That trip is about as close as I have come to using one of these cameras exclusively for an extended period.
 

Paul Howell

Subscriber
Joined
Dec 23, 2004
Messages
9,682
Location
Scottsdale Az
Format
Multi Format
In the 70s I had a coworker who stipped down a baby crown, took off the leatherette covering, sanded the wood, and finished it a high quality clear finish. Then had the front standards machined for greater swing and tilt, got a 90mm lens with better coverage than the Kodak that was on it. In the end had a 2 1/4 by 3.25 field camera for not much money. Aside from movements were still limited and not having a rotating back, not a bad field camera, and looked good. She lived in a small 2 bed room cottage, had room for a 2X3 enlarger, felt a 4X5 would be too large for her space.
 

Ariston

Member
Joined
Jan 20, 2019
Messages
1,658
Location
Atlanta
Format
Multi Format
I have a Speed Graphic that John gave me. It works just fine. What's to break? The rangefinder was spot on. I painted up the bellows, so they are fine. The rear shutter was hanging up, but a couple of twists of its spring fixed it right up. It cost me zero dollars to get it up and running like new.

That camera is tough. I never feel the need to baby it. The lens closes right up into the body, so it is perfectly safe, too.
 

shutterfinger

Member
Joined
Feb 25, 2013
Messages
5,020
Location
San Jose, Ca.
Format
4x5 Format
Dan,
All Graflex SLR's have a Graflex back unless it was modified by a 3rd party shop or person. Lens and Repo in New York did this for years.
The serial number on Graflex SLR's are on the view lid behind the view hood. The very early SLR's had it stamped into the frame around the view opening. Most SLR's serial numbers can be read by folding down the top section of the view hood while others require the view hood to be detached from the view door. To detach remove the bottom screw from the hood guide on one side of the door, loosen the top screw of that guide 1/2 to 1 turn, swing the guide free of the hood support bar, slide the hood support bat from the other guide then fold down as it will be with the door closed. Reassembly is the reverse.
Speed Graphics serial numbers were ink stamped on the bottom side of the camera top on the handle side. With the front standard fully retracted into the body turn the camera upside down and use a flashlight to see the serial number.
5 digit serial numbers are 1919 or earlier.
Crown and Speeds from 1947 on have their serial numbers on a plate riveted to the bed in the inside of the bed.
Post your serial numbers to get the approximate date of manufacturer.
 
OP
OP
Pioneer

Pioneer

Member
Joined
May 29, 2010
Messages
3,879
Location
Elko, Nevada
Format
Multi Format
Thanks Shutterfinger. I did find the serial numbers on the Graflexes but I admit it took some serious looking.

Not sure about the Speed since I haven't checked but here are the numbers from the two Graflex 2x3 cameras.

#275831
#463074

Sk Grimes changed the back on my RB Auto to a spring back. Beyond that I think it is pretty standard. The serial number for that one is -

#151759
 

markjwyatt

Subscriber
Joined
Apr 26, 2018
Messages
2,417
Location
Southern California
Format
Multi Format
I have a Speed Graphic 4x5 and Graflex RB D 4x5. Both need some work. The Seed Graphic could probably work for 4x5 sheet film using the leaf shutter with minimal work, but it and the RB D need to have the focal plane shutters reworked. The Kalart rangefinder (SG) do not work, and the front mecahnism of the SG need some rebuilding. The RB D needs a new hood and bellows as well. I have some accessories for the SG (film holders, Graflex '23'- missing winding knob, useless film pack holders, case), but no film holders or anything for the RB D. This is a project for some day.

Edit to add: both cameras are from around 1949
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
Pioneer

Pioneer

Member
Joined
May 29, 2010
Messages
3,879
Location
Elko, Nevada
Format
Multi Format
Yeah. I know exactly what you mean about projects. I have several cameras and parts of cameras lying about with that same "some day" in the back of my mind but "some day" never seems to arrive. However I do have a nice Conley #1 8x10 that has actually started to come together nicely but I have a passel (that is vague Western United States lingo for "a lot") of parts and pieces left lying around.

That is what I thought these two Graflex 2x3 cameras actually were until I started testing them the other day. There are a few things that do need attention but they are mostly cosmetic issues that do not seem to have any effect on their operation.
 

shutterfinger

Member
Joined
Feb 25, 2013
Messages
5,020
Location
San Jose, Ca.
Format
4x5 Format
Graflex put serial numbers on their products but did not keep a record until after purchased by Kodak. Dates were not listed until after Kodak lost its monopolizing suit in 1922 when they started listing the date the listing was entered into the record.
#275831 in the last 100 of a 300 camera order listed Jan. 1941.
#463074 24th from the end of a 150 camera order listed June 1948.
#151759 Middle of a 150 camera order listed in 1926, next order in March 1927.
 

markjwyatt

Subscriber
Joined
Apr 26, 2018
Messages
2,417
Location
Southern California
Format
Multi Format
Yeah. I know exactly what you mean about projects. I have several cameras and parts of cameras lying about with that same "some day" in the back of my mind but "some day" never seems to arrive. However I do have a nice Conley #1 8x10 that has actually started to come together nicely but I have a passel (that is vague Western United States lingo for "a lot") of parts and pieces left lying around.

That is what I thought these two Graflex 2x3 cameras actually were until I started testing them the other day. There are a few things that do need attention but they are mostly cosmetic issues that do not seem to have any effect on their operation.

These are "some day" cameras, but somewhere on my long list! but I am having enough fun with all my working cameras. I do want to play around with sheet film though.
 

Donald Qualls

Subscriber
Joined
Jan 19, 2005
Messages
12,293
Location
North Carolina
Format
Multi Format
Insert the film holder in the back and lock it in. (This is a Graflex back, the Spring back and Graflock back were easier to use.)
  • Set the lens aperture at f4.5.
  • Focus the camera by looking through the focus hood on top of the camera as you adjust the bellows back and forth.
  • Determine your exposure using a handheld meter (or by sunny 16 if you are so inclined.)
  • Reset the lens aperture to your exposure aperture.
  • Set the shutter gap. (Based on the shutter chart on the side of the camera.)
  • Set the shutter tension. (Based on the shutter chart on the side of the camera.)
  • Finally! Press the small lever on the side to fire the shutter. (Don't get your hands or fingers in the way of the rotating knobs on the side.)
  • RATS!! I forgot to pull the dark slide. Reset the shutter lever and go back to the step where you set the shutter gap and start over.
  • NOW pull the dark slide.
  • Press the shutter lever...WAIT!!! The sun just went behind a cloud. Either wait for the sun to come back out or recalculate and set your exposure.
  • NOW PRESS THE SHUTTER LEVER...QUICK! And hope you didn't get any movement blur because you moved the camera when you desperately stabbed a the shutter lever.
  • Replace the dark slide.
  • Reset the lever on the side so you can see through the mirror again.
  • Flip the film holder so you can start this all over again. :D (I do have a couple of Grafmatics but they don't really help to speed things up.)

Aside from manual aperture and fooling with the focal plane shutter, that's not that much different than the procedures for shooting my RB67 (including manual mirror reset), made 40-50 years later (and weighs more). And aside from the mirror gymnastics, not far from what I do with my Speed Graphic (except that, with any lens but my 13.5 cm Tessar, I have to also decide whether to use the front or rear shutter, and close and cock the front one if I'm using that). And yet, with the RF calibrated, I can and occasionally do shoot my Speed hand held with the focal plane shutter.

Not exactly point and shoot, but then if we wanted point and shoot, we'd have picked up that little Canon at the thrift store for $5, put fresh batteries in it, and fed it a 35mm cassette.
 
OP
OP
Pioneer

Pioneer

Member
Joined
May 29, 2010
Messages
3,879
Location
Elko, Nevada
Format
Multi Format
All right. I took the 2x3 Speed Graphic out yesterday afternoon and put 4 sheets of HP5+ through it. I would shoot a subject with the focal plane shutter then I shot the same subject with the leaf shutter for the 101mm Kodak Ektar. Everything seemed to be working fine but the proof is usually in the pudding. I just finished developing the negatives in D-23 1+3 this morning and the negatives all look good. In fact, at this point I can't see any difference between either negative so that would seem to indicate that both shutters are equally dependable.

I can say the camera is pretty easy to handle and is in pretty decent condition. It has that used look that leather gets when it is handled a lot. Just from the appearance I would guess it has been handled and used quite a bit. The lens, a Kodak Ektar 101mm f/4.5, seems clear and has no obvious scratches but I don't think it is coated because it doesn't have Kodak's Lumenizing symbol on it. Minimum aperture is f32. The leaf shutter is a No 1 Kodak Supermatic with speeds from 1 second to 1/400 seconds along with Bulb and Time. I haven't tested either shutter to establish reliability yet but I'll probably get around to that in a few days.

It has a Kalart Synchronized rangefinder and based on the outcome of the negatives it appears to be playing well with the lens. The focus spot is a little faint and kind of hard to for me to see in the shadows but it is certainly usable in the day. Not sure what it would have been like for a reporter trying to work at night though.

The back is a Spring Back and is worn pretty good where the film holders slide in and out so I would bet this old girl has seen a lot of film go in and out in its day. I have several Graflex 2x3 film holders and the ones I used were obviously light tight. The others look OK as well so I think they are in good condition. Besides, these old wooden film holders aren't too hard to clean up and renovate as long as they aren't too busted up.

If I get some time later on today I'll scan and post the negatives so those of you with better eyes and more experience than I can check and see if there are any problems that should be investigated. That being said it does appear as if this is a great, working example of a 2x3 Speed Graphic. I think I'll pack this camera around a bit and see
 
OP
OP
Pioneer

Pioneer

Member
Joined
May 29, 2010
Messages
3,879
Location
Elko, Nevada
Format
Multi Format
Graflex put serial numbers on their products but did not keep a record until after purchased by Kodak. Dates were not listed until after Kodak lost its monopolizing suit in 1922 when they started listing the date the listing was entered into the record.
#275831 in the last 100 of a 300 camera order listed Jan. 1941.
#463074 24th from the end of a 150 camera order listed June 1948.
#151759 Middle of a 150 camera order listed in 1926, next order in March 1927.
Thank you very much Shutterfinger. That is fascinating information that is nice to know. It looks as if these 2x3 Graflex cameras aren't quite as old as I thought.

And I have been bouncing around in the desert back country in my Jeep with that RB Auto on the passenger seat without any thought to how old that camera really is. Hmm. Maybe I'll have to treat it a little nicer.

BTW, I did find the serial number on my 2x3 Speed Graphic stamped into the top, inside of the case. It is #369428. If you find a moment to check I would be interested to know the date on this one as well.
 

Donald Qualls

Subscriber
Joined
Jan 19, 2005
Messages
12,293
Location
North Carolina
Format
Multi Format
The trick for those rangefinders in the dark was installing the light source. Flip the light on (ran on a couple flashlight batteries), and you had a pair of light spots projected on the scene. Merge the spots, and you were focused.
 

Dan Fromm

Member
Joined
Mar 23, 2005
Messages
6,823
Format
Multi Format
The lens, a Kodak Ektar 101mm f/4.5, seems clear and has no obvious scratches but I don't think it is coated because it doesn't have Kodak's Lumenizing symbol on it. Minimum aperture is f32. The leaf shutter is a No 1 Kodak Supermatic with speeds from 1 second to 1/400 seconds along with Bulb and Time.

You can easily translate your lens' serial number into year of manufacture. The first two characters should be letters. If the lens isn't coated (you're right, the L in circle means coated), it was probably made before mid-1946 when EKCo started coating for the civilian market. The code:

CAMEROSITY
1234567890

I have two of them, EI 205 and EO 3496. 1948 and coated, 1946 and not coated. The uncoated one shoots better. When I was shooting lenses against each other semi-formally it was my little gold standard. The worst one can say about these lenses is that they don't have as much coverage as newer plasmat types. On Graphics this is irrelevant.
 

Paul Howell

Subscriber
Joined
Dec 23, 2004
Messages
9,682
Location
Scottsdale Az
Format
Multi Format
A story I read years ago, in print, was that after the war the Dept of War and Navy destroyed 1000s of Graphic cameras rather than flood the market leading to Graphic bankruptcy. Not only cameras but typewriters, radios, staff cars.
 
OP
OP
Pioneer

Pioneer

Member
Joined
May 29, 2010
Messages
3,879
Location
Elko, Nevada
Format
Multi Format
You can easily translate your lens' serial number into year of manufacture. The first two characters should be letters. If the lens isn't coated (you're right, the L in circle means coated), it was probably made before mid-1946 when EKCo started coating for the civilian market. The code:

CAMEROSITY
1234567890

I have two of them, EI 205 and EO 3496. 1948 and coated, 1946 and not coated. The uncoated one shoots better. When I was shooting lenses against each other semi-formally it was my little gold standard. The worst one can say about these lenses is that they don't have as much coverage as newer plasmat types. On Graphics this is irrelevant.

Thank you Dan. I have heard this before. The serial number from the 101mm on my Speed starts with EY so it was built in the 1940s. Shutterfinger indicated the camera serial number come for sometime in 1945 so it would be likely that the lens is original to the camera. At least camera and lens are from the same general time period.
 
OP
OP
Pioneer

Pioneer

Member
Joined
May 29, 2010
Messages
3,879
Location
Elko, Nevada
Format
Multi Format
This was a check on shutter behavior. Sorry about the subject matter. I so suspect they will produce some delicious tomatoes though.

Two shots with the 2x3 Super Graphic and the 101mm Ektar lens. Shutter speeds and aperture were identical for both exposures. The lens is not coated. No filters were used.

Film was Ilford HP5+ developed in D-23 1+3. Scanned on an inexpensive Epson flatbed. Image rotated to horizontal and reduced for web viewing. Nothing else was done.

One was taken with the focal plane shutter and the other was taken with the leaf shutter. Both are low contrast which can be expected from the lens and from the developer.

Overall it is very difficult for me to see any difference so I have to believe the shutters are running pretty close. I will do some contact prints later on.

2x3-Super-Graphic-Shutter-1.jpg 2x3-Super-Graphic-Shutter-2.jpg

There were 2 more side by side images but one of them is a bit unsharp so I suspect I had some camera movement on one of them. I will put the camera on a tripod next time.

I'm going to clean the lens a little and see if I can find a yellow filter to help boost contrast. I'll try this again tomorrow.

I do think it is worth saying that these are the first two images captured by this camera for quite awhile so I am not terribly disappointed.
 
Last edited:
Photrio.com contains affiliate links to products. We may receive a commission for purchases made through these links.
To read our full affiliate disclosure statement please click Here.

PHOTRIO PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Ilford ADOX Freestyle Photographic Stearman Press Weldon Color Lab Blue Moon Camera & Machine
Top Bottom