Sorry...darn, I thought you were taking them out to sell...
They built them to last back in the day. Bulky and heavy, but they had to be big to make high quality images on the film they could make then (2x3 format was on the small side in the days of contact prints). Overbuilt, because press photographers would punish their equipment -- the negative was more important than the camera; you could replace a camera (for a price) but you might never get another chance to see FDR standing behind a podium, telling everyone it was going to be okay, or a B-17 that came home with most of the rudder shot off.
That is great John.Hi Dan
I have a Series D ( RB ) and it has been one of my favorite cameras to use since bought it in 96'. I got it from this camera collector seller who used to have one of those 2 page ad spreads in "shutterbug magazine". These old graflex slr's a prefectly weighted and a dream to use. I hope you enjoy using yours for as long as you don't need the money from selling it . They are great portrait cameras
John
Yeah. I know exactly what you mean about projects. I have several cameras and parts of cameras lying about with that same "some day" in the back of my mind but "some day" never seems to arrive. However I do have a nice Conley #1 8x10 that has actually started to come together nicely but I have a passel (that is vague Western United States lingo for "a lot") of parts and pieces left lying around.
That is what I thought these two Graflex 2x3 cameras actually were until I started testing them the other day. There are a few things that do need attention but they are mostly cosmetic issues that do not seem to have any effect on their operation.
Insert the film holder in the back and lock it in. (This is a Graflex back, the Spring back and Graflock back were easier to use.)
- Set the lens aperture at f4.5.
- Focus the camera by looking through the focus hood on top of the camera as you adjust the bellows back and forth.
- Determine your exposure using a handheld meter (or by sunny 16 if you are so inclined.)
- Reset the lens aperture to your exposure aperture.
- Set the shutter gap. (Based on the shutter chart on the side of the camera.)
- Set the shutter tension. (Based on the shutter chart on the side of the camera.)
- Finally! Press the small lever on the side to fire the shutter. (Don't get your hands or fingers in the way of the rotating knobs on the side.)
- RATS!! I forgot to pull the dark slide. Reset the shutter lever and go back to the step where you set the shutter gap and start over.
- NOW pull the dark slide.
- Press the shutter lever...WAIT!!! The sun just went behind a cloud. Either wait for the sun to come back out or recalculate and set your exposure.
- NOW PRESS THE SHUTTER LEVER...QUICK! And hope you didn't get any movement blur because you moved the camera when you desperately stabbed a the shutter lever.
- Replace the dark slide.
- Reset the lever on the side so you can see through the mirror again.
- Flip the film holder so you can start this all over again.
(I do have a couple of Grafmatics but they don't really help to speed things up.)
Thank you very much Shutterfinger. That is fascinating information that is nice to know. It looks as if these 2x3 Graflex cameras aren't quite as old as I thought.Graflex put serial numbers on their products but did not keep a record until after purchased by Kodak. Dates were not listed until after Kodak lost its monopolizing suit in 1922 when they started listing the date the listing was entered into the record.
#275831 in the last 100 of a 300 camera order listed Jan. 1941.
#463074 24th from the end of a 150 camera order listed June 1948.
#151759 Middle of a 150 camera order listed in 1926, next order in March 1927.
The lens, a Kodak Ektar 101mm f/4.5, seems clear and has no obvious scratches but I don't think it is coated because it doesn't have Kodak's Lumenizing symbol on it. Minimum aperture is f32. The leaf shutter is a No 1 Kodak Supermatic with speeds from 1 second to 1/400 seconds along with Bulb and Time.
You can easily translate your lens' serial number into year of manufacture. The first two characters should be letters. If the lens isn't coated (you're right, the L in circle means coated), it was probably made before mid-1946 when EKCo started coating for the civilian market. The code:
CAMEROSITY
1234567890
I have two of them, EI 205 and EO 3496. 1948 and coated, 1946 and not coated. The uncoated one shoots better. When I was shooting lenses against each other semi-formally it was my little gold standard. The worst one can say about these lenses is that they don't have as much coverage as newer plasmat types. On Graphics this is irrelevant.
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