Hello all, i've just picked up a Gossens Variosix F but my problem is that when i go to take a reading i'll just get an Eu or En reading and its stuck there until i reset the battery, could it be that the 9v battery it shipped with (expires in 2030) is not working properly and thus not allowing the meter to take any kind of readings i'll attach a photo of it!
Gossens Variosix F problem
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Welcome to Photrio @stammu!
Sorry to hear about your problems with the light meter. Btw, I'm the same person you contacted through my blog, so my response here is in addition to my earlier email to you.
The "En" and "Eu" messages denote under- respectively over-exposure during the measurement. Since the meter has quite a large range, it's rare to get either of these messages; generally you'll just get a correct measurement. If the battery is dead or nearly dead, the meter in my experience signals this with a 'BAT' indicator in the center of the display. Still, I'd try a fresh battery just to make sure.
Another possibility is that the metering accessory is incorrectly fitted or there's a problem with the electrical connections leading to the metering head. I've taken this snippet from my blog:
These are the wires that run to the head, and I assume that they play a role in telling the meter which metering accessory (spot or incident dome) is fitted. Problems with these connections might result in the meter defaulting to the wrong metering range, or perhaps entering a failure mode altogether. If you decide to keep this meter (or are forced to do so), you might try and opening it up to see if there's a problem with these wires. I expect they might break with inappropriate or very intensive use.
Sorry to hear about your problems with the light meter. Btw, I'm the same person you contacted through my blog, so my response here is in addition to my earlier email to you.
The "En" and "Eu" messages denote under- respectively over-exposure during the measurement. Since the meter has quite a large range, it's rare to get either of these messages; generally you'll just get a correct measurement. If the battery is dead or nearly dead, the meter in my experience signals this with a 'BAT' indicator in the center of the display. Still, I'd try a fresh battery just to make sure.
Another possibility is that the metering accessory is incorrectly fitted or there's a problem with the electrical connections leading to the metering head. I've taken this snippet from my blog:
These are the wires that run to the head, and I assume that they play a role in telling the meter which metering accessory (spot or incident dome) is fitted. Problems with these connections might result in the meter defaulting to the wrong metering range, or perhaps entering a failure mode altogether. If you decide to keep this meter (or are forced to do so), you might try and opening it up to see if there's a problem with these wires. I expect they might break with inappropriate or very intensive use.
I see, tommorow with a newfound will to try my hands in fixing it i'll try to open it up and check that specific area if new battery doesn't resolve the issue i am thankful i've found your blogpost and now photrio and praying this ends up in a happy ending for the light meter otherwise its much needed knowledge for the future 
I also hope that you will manage to fix this meter! The electronics as such seem pretty robust to me, so I think there's a good chance that the defect turns out to be a fairly simple one. But simple defects can be hard to find.
Apart from the solder connections themselves, I'd verify that the wires have integrity and aren't internally broken (you can't visually see this by looking at the wire). You'd have to open up the metering head for this as well. I never did that on my meter I think, as it wasn't necessary for what I wanted to learn. I'm sure it can be done though, without damaging the unit.
If you end up opening the measurement head as well, please try to take some photos and post them here, if you will. Someone else might find it useful. Also if you manage to solve the defect of course!
Apart from the solder connections themselves, I'd verify that the wires have integrity and aren't internally broken (you can't visually see this by looking at the wire). You'd have to open up the metering head for this as well. I never did that on my meter I think, as it wasn't necessary for what I wanted to learn. I'm sure it can be done though, without damaging the unit.
If you end up opening the measurement head as well, please try to take some photos and post them here, if you will. Someone else might find it useful. Also if you manage to solve the defect of course!
Good suggestion. In a similar Gossen meter I started having problems and it was "black wire syndrome". The 9v battery clip had been replaced at some point in history and there were no signs of electrolyte leakage, but apparently there was as it wicked up the wire insulation and destroyed the wire while leaving the insulation intact so it looked visually okay.
Was that wire bundle twisted off? Yikes!
Ah, that's a clear problem. Someone swiveled the head endlessly until the wires snapped. They must have twisted it past the locking mechanism that should prevent this.I sadly think I've found quickly what the problem is and i don't think its in my skillset to fix
Don't throw out the device. You may be able to find someone who can replace or repair the broken wires. It's not a very complex job.
I will not I'll ask on some repair shops in Athens if they could take the task when i get the time, uneventful end to the story but hey sometimes u win sometimes u lose
It seems that you can just solder the wires back in. Just need to find which wire goes where.
Yeye i gotta figure out how to disassembly the head but I've never done soldering i do have a friend that repairs GPUs etc so he could be of use
This might not give the exact answers you need but might yield meaningful clues. It’s inexpensive so there’s little to lose.
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