Gold Toner Use

[Jonathan Brooke]

I'm just about to try my new Tetenal gold toner. I've lent out my books and can't remember if I need to dilute. What can anyone recommend?

Thanks, Jonathan

 

[snallan]

The gold toner is used neat, no need to dilute (except perhaps if you are using processes like POP, or argyrotype).

 

[Jonathan Brooke]

Cheers snallan. I tried it on a couple of paper/dev combinations and found that my warm paper came out a lot bluer than on cold. Is there a good reason for this?

 

[tim rudman]

Cheers snallan. I tried it on a couple of paper/dev combinations and found that my warm paper came out a lot bluer than on cold. Is there a good reason for this?

V easy to use Jonathan.
Pour out, insert print, re-bottle and keep 'til next time.
The warmer the print tone, the bluer is the tone you get in gold toner.
BW
Tim

 

[pentaxuser]

Jonathan Worth a look in the gallery at a gold toned Dave Miller "Seascape" Can't remember the title of the print. It was such a good and muted blue colour I thought on first look that he had moved to a muted colour film. He might even join in here and say what he did. I think it involved a split tone approach as it was only the sea that was blue. Much more subtle than ordinary blue toner and as I understand it quite archival which blue toning isn't.

pentaxuser

 

[Jonathan Brooke]

Well the prints are drying in college at the moment, so I'll have to wait till Monday to see what they're like dried down. Unfortunately I had to use different images, so the comparison won't be easy to draw. I think it's possible I won't want the strongest blue, it looked potentially a bit too much! So far I've tried it on Forte Polygrade, Forte Fortezo G4, both in Tetenal Eukobrom; and the Fortezo in Ilford PQ. I tried the Fortezo in Eukobrom because I liked the subtle difference between that and PQ when selenium toned; so I had some spare work prints! I think I'll try the Polygrade in PQ as it ought to be slightly warmer, what I got today might just have been a little too muted; who knows?

Sadly I can't show you what they're like when it's all finished, I'm working on some nudes and my friend who modeled for me doesn't want them going online (unless I can persuade her).

Thanks for the advice,
Jonathan

p.s. Roughly how many 10x8s should i expect from the bottle?

 

[tim rudman]

Well the prints are drying in college at the moment, so I'll have to wait till Monday to see what they're like dried down. Unfortunately I had to use different images, so the comparison won't be easy to draw. I think it's possible I won't want the strongest blue, it looked potentially a bit too much! So far I've tried it on Forte Polygrade, Forte Fortezo G4, both in Tetenal Eukobrom; and the Fortezo in Ilford PQ. I tried the Fortezo in Eukobrom because I liked the subtle difference between that and PQ when selenium toned; so I had some spare work prints! I think I'll try the Polygrade in PQ as it ought to be slightly warmer, what I got today might just have been a little too muted; who knows?

Sadly I can't show you what they're like when it's all finished, I'm working on some nudes and my friend who modeled for me doesn't want them going online (unless I can persuade her).

Thanks for the advice,
Jonathan

p.s. Roughly how many 10x8s should i expect from the bottle?

60 has been quoted by Fotospeed for their very similar product, but it does depend how

 

[tim rudman]

Well the prints are drying in college at the moment, so I'll have to wait till Monday to see what they're like dried down. Unfortunately I had to use different images, so the comparison won't be easy to draw. I think it's possible I won't want the strongest blue, it looked potentially a bit too much! So far I've tried it on Forte Polygrade, Forte Fortezo G4, both in Tetenal Eukobrom; and the Fortezo in Ilford PQ. I tried the Fortezo in Eukobrom because I liked the subtle difference between that and PQ when selenium toned; so I had some spare work prints! I think I'll try the Polygrade in PQ as it ought to be slightly warmer, what I got today might just have been a little too muted; who knows?

Sadly I can't show you what they're like when it's all finished, I'm working on some nudes and my friend who modeled for me doesn't want them going online (unless I can persuade her).

Thanks for the advice,
Jonathan

p.s. Roughly how many 10x8s should i expect from the bottle?

60 has been quoted by Fotospeed for their very similar product, but it does depend how far you tone each one - subtle or to the max for example. I think that figure is a bit high for my work at least.
Tetetenal toners are generallt quite friskey and initially brisk and you will find that the gold toner you are using works enthusiastically and fast at first and then slows down. When times get too long for comfort or patience warming up on a dish tray or water bath speeds up again for a while. If you push near to exhaustion you may risk slight staining.

(My comments about warmer prints giving bluer results is a generalisation and has a few exceptions BTW)
Tim

 

[Dave Miller]

An example of gold toning is here:

(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

This was made with well used Tetenal toner, which as Tim says changes with use, hence the grey/blue of this example.
One point to keep in mind is that gold toner is very easy to contaminate and ruin. Use separate containers, trays and funnels, and only use it on well washed prints.

 

[snallan]

Cheers snallan. I tried it on a couple of paper/dev combinations and found that my warm paper came out a lot bluer than on cold. Is there a good reason for this?

Hi Jonathan, sorry, I was away overnight and have only just seen your question.

The guys above have given plenty of good info (Tim is the man BTW, if you don't have a copy of his book on toning, it is well worth getting your hands on one).

Cheers

 

[Travis Nunn]

Hi Jonathon, I mainly use gold toner on my lith prints which can really change the color a lot. I use Fotospeed Gold Toner. Here is an example...
(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

Since Art Classic was a warm paper, the color shift is more than you would see with a neutral paper.