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Gold 200 on 35mm - Yellow / Soft / Avoid

DavidClapp

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I bought some rolls of Gold 200 to go with my Nikon F2AS / Canon 7s and I have to say the results have been really disappointing.

Everything is in focus but soft looking. The colour palette has been injected with yellow — red shadows / mids and yellow highlights, making everything look horrible even in bright sunshine.

Is this just a bad batch?

In direct comparison, I got some great and sharp results from Fuji C200 without the yucky signature.

Is it something to avoid on 120 as well?
 

loccdor

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I've never been much of a fan on Gold 200 in 35mm in any of its incarnations. Color palette, grain, rendering - always chose Fuji Superia when it was available for that price range. Much better colors in my opinion, and it's only an opinion.

I do like it more in 120, the grain becomes negligible, the colors somehow seem to get slightly better (must be an illusion), the saturation helps with landscape work, though Ektar is better, and any type of Fuji slide is way better.

You can balance out some of the unpleasant color in post. It can also be useful as a cheap B&W film for the times you don't want the light loss of a contrast filter, via conversion. It has a nice amount of exposure latitude, too.
 
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DavidClapp

DavidClapp

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Ok I am using a Nikon LS9000 and ColorPerfect - linear scanned with Vuescan
This is a linear scan that is inverted with "Gold200 GP-200 6" as the profile, even though it says GB-200 7 on the film
Screenshot 2026-02-03 at 13.19.48.jpg


The starting point has loads of red and magenta in the mids and shadows (mainly the trees)

Screenshot 2026-02-03 at 13.25.32.jpg

After lots of work in ColorPerfect and then again in Camera Raw Filter to remove the excessive colour casts and blandness, I still end up with what I think personally is horrible looking picture.

Screenshot 2026-02-03 at 13.28.08.jpg


Here's a shot of my wife - I haven't altered the starting point in the image above, but you can see from the sharpness below, although it isn't out of focus, it's far from encouraging.

Screenshot 2026-02-03 at 13.30.12.jpg


Just to give you some idea what the scanner and my PS skills are capable of with medium format scans... I can handle colours very well using Color Perfect and the LS9000 (I understand I am scanning a much smaller area than these - it's about the film colours)

Screenshot 2026-02-03 at 13.33.14.jpg

120 Ektar


Screenshot 2026-02-03 at 13.33.26.jpg

120 Pro400H

Screenshot 2026-02-03 at 13.33.39.jpg
 
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DavidClapp

DavidClapp

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The sharpness issue - here is XP2 on the same camera / lens - no sharpening applied

Screenshot 2026-02-03 at 13.41.27.jpg
Screenshot 2026-02-03 at 13.41.39.jpg
 

koraks

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Thanks for following up with examples. I recognize the fact that you have a problem with the colors in the first shot. I personally would also be quite displeased with that outcome, although I bet plenty of people would find it perfectly acceptable. We all differ in our standards, but within that variation, I do understand where you're coming from.

I'd start by bypassing at least momentarily the complications added by the black-box nature of the corrections applied by tools like ColorPerfect and do this manually. It might help if you could upload a raw (uninverted, uncorrected) scan of a frame or a few frames so others can have a go at balancing them. At the very least this will demonstrate how much the digital part of the process affects the final outcome. At best it can show whether or not there's something odd going on with your film - but frankly, I don't expect so (although each film of course has its own peculiarities in how it responds to colors and light).

As to the sharpness - the second image is indeed a fuzzy mess. However, given that the grain also doesn't render particularly sharply, I hesitate to accept it has anything to do with the film. My guess is something went wrong with scanning, particularly focus. I don't use an LS9000 myself so I'm not familiar with its ins & outs, but I do know it's capable of far better results - as you yourself also demonstrate.

Of course, there's always the chance of a process problem; how was your film processed and are there any other signs of a processing issue?

Having had a quick look at your first image, here's an attempt to balance it out a little better (to my eye), but of course (1) I wasn't there and (2) I don't know what expectations you have of the end result, so perhaps you don't find this an improvement at all. Either way, it does show that a fairly subtle adjustment can get rid of e.g. the magenta bias in the trees bottom left.
1770126757020.png

As you can see, I did apply non-linear (i.e. crossover) corrections, but in my experience it's quite common for tools like ColorPerfect to do funny things to color curves, so I wouldn't jump to the conclusion of crossover in the actual negative.

Also, color-wise, the other examples you posted do look nice, but the first two are problematic because those 'golden hour' colors are always so extreme that even a gross deviation from normal can go unnoticed. I personally have doubts about the Ektar shot in particular looking at the hue of the sky in relation to the sunlit stonework; again, I wasn't there, but it seems like a rather implausible combination to me (it can still be pretty of course).

The quality of the light is of course a tricky thing to begin with; e.g. the photograph of your wife is balanced very warm, while in reality, the light in that shadow area must have tended very strongly towards blue. There is a hint of a green cast; a green/magenta issue is consistent with your first photo.

The culvert image looks fairly neutral, albeit with a slight cyan bias. I would print or digitally balance it a little more red.

What I'm saying mostly is that:
1: There are no absolutes in color photography. It's all very relative. This is particularly the case with color negative.
2: Each of us applies different criteria to the end result. I'd wager to say that much of the time, we are only partly aware of those requirements, which is at least part of the reason why we sometimes (I myself certainly) run into problems with certain images.
3: Digital editing is extremely flexible. And this is a blessing as well as a curse.

Sorry if this isn't entirely helpful, yet. I would be interested in seeing that 'raw' scan, but don't feel pressured into sharing it.
 

loccdor

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With regards to grain/resolution:

My understanding is that when Kodak reformulated their color films they prioritized low grain at the expense of some resolution.

Are you scanning at 4000 dpi? The grain examples of both films look lower resolution than what I would expect if so. Here's an example of what the grains of Kodak Aerocolor 100 look like at high enough resolution, no sharpening applied:

1770127748124.png


And some of Kodak Portra 160:

1770128153612.png


Note the defined edges to the grain. The grain will of course increase as you dial up the contrast of your image in processing. High subject brightness range images as most of your examples are need less contrast added and so will show less grain contrast, but the detail should still be there.

If your scanner is at its max resolution, I suspect it may not be focusing quite where it needs to. Your grain/resolution looks very much like what I see when my digitizing camera is slightly off focus. I don't know much about your particular scanner but there are lots of ways it can happen: scanner focus issues, film flatness issues, holder issues, etc.
 
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DavidClapp

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It was very helpful - I really appreciate the detailed response.

Just to say I have put some test examples in a Google Drive. I made two subfolders with Fuji C200 scans and a second Gold 200 so you can see the colour differences. The results are night and day.

DOWNLOAD >>> https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1uKvstLG4EdCIoGuaW1ZfZahesTDu5bTS?usp=sharing

Also, color-wise, the other examples you posted do look nice, but the first two are problematic because those 'golden hour' colors are always so extreme that even a gross deviation from normal can go unnoticed. I personally have doubts about the Ektar shot in particular looking at the hue of the sky in relation to the sunlit stonework; again, I wasn't there, but it seems like a rather implausible combination to me (it can still be pretty of course).

Agreed on the Ektar shot - I have just adjusted the hue slightly towards blue as it had too much cyan in there, and I pulled the saturation down a bit. It was one of these glorious late summer sunsets where the sun came out below the cloud.

I am very conscious of trying to leave the film signature intact or what is the point of all this... but sometimes I really struggle. Weirdly with 35mm in particular - loads of the cheaper stock films I have shot are truly horrid - I can't get on with Ultramax, Color Plus and now Gold 200. I refuse to pay ridiculous prices for the all the pro film stocks so I am currently trying Kodak Vision 3 250D and 500T in my 'new' F3 an my F2AS

All this causes a love / hate relationship with 35mm, the films available and the resolution.
What I'm saying mostly is that:
1: There are no absolutes in color photography. It's all very relative. This is particularly the case with color negative.
2: Each of us applies different criteria to the end result. I'd wager to say that much of the time, we are only partly aware of those requirements, which is at least part of the reason why we sometimes (I myself certainly) run into problems with certain images.
3: Digital editing is extremely flexible. And this is a blessing as well as a curse.

Yes you can say that again. On the other side I always feel there are some shots I see where they have been so 'corrected' I couldn't tell if it was film or digital.
 

Paul Howell

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I would have one frame optically printed at a good lab, then at a lab with a minilab, as an standard to compare your scanned negatives to. I had always like Gold 100, thought 200 was a bit soft.
 

koraks

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Just to say I have put some test examples in a Google Drive. I made two subfolders with Fuji C200 scans and a second Gold 200 so you can see the colour differences. The results are night and day.

Thanks; is there any chance you could make some uninverted, uncorrected scans as well? These are inverted & color balanced. It often helps to see some scans that are scanned as if these were color slides; so with the orange mask dominantly place and all that. Ensure no data is clipped on either end of the scale, esp. the dense areas (highlights).

Btw, having had a very quick peek, there's a really big problem on at least this frame:
1770134085562.png

Note the gradient towards yellow on the right side. This is usually indicative of a major light leak, esp through the back of the film. Could also occur during film handling. Scanning can also be an issue but that's exceedingly less likely given the type of scanner you use. Either way, this indicates a problem that is beyond the choice of film or its specific spectral response and it's also not something that conceivably could get past Kodak's QA.
 
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DavidClapp

DavidClapp

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Note the gradient towards yellow on the right side. This is usually indicative of a major light leak, esp through the back of the film. Could also occur during film handling. Scanning can also be an issue but that's exceedingly less likely given the type of scanner you use.
What do you mean by 'a major light leak through the back of the film' - are you referring to a fault with the camera? Or is this a film issue?

I use a clear glass holder for all my medium format scans but the 35mm holder has no glass, but it has 12 separate windows. The effect happens can happen when its not positioned properly and the area outside the capture area is included

I just scanned the next one and it has the same problem. Yet I am continuing through the roll and its just these two... weird

Screenshot 2026-02-03 at 16.22.03.jpg
 
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koraks

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What do you mean by 'a major light leak through the back of the film'
The effect shown can be caused by light hitting the emulsion through the backside of the film. In that case the fogging gets this yellow-orange color. This can happen inside the camera or for instance when loading the film from the cassette into a developing tank etc. However, problems during scanning can conceivably also be a cause. This is easily determined by verifying whether the anomaly exists in the actual negative; you should be able to see it even with the naked eye.
 
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DavidClapp

DavidClapp

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The images I have scanned at the end of the roll have better more consistent colours, with less of this yellow cast. There is no sign of this yellow gradient.
 

pentaxuser

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In direct comparison, I got some great and sharp results from Fuji C200 without the yucky signature.

Isn't Fuji C200 the same as Kodak Gold and wasn't there quite a lot of evidence, some of it from Greg Davis in a video, to this effect? If this is the case then wonder why your experience of the 2 films might be so different?

pentaxuser
 
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DavidClapp

DavidClapp

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Isn't Fuji C200 the same as Kodak Gold and wasn't there quite a lot of evidence, some of it from Greg Davis in a video, to this effect? If this is the case then wonder why your experience of the 2 films might be so different?

pentaxuser
"Things get confused because Fujifilm introduced “Fujicolor 200” in some markets, and analysis of its datasheet and side‑by‑side tests suggests that this newer Fujicolor 200 is very likely a rebranded Kodak Gold 200 supplied by Kodak, rather than the old C200 emulsion. However, that newer Fujicolor 200 is not the same as the original Fujicolor C200; it’s effectively Gold 200 in Fuji packaging for certain regions, while classic C200 (now discontinued in many places) remains its own, different stock."
 

blee1996

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I didn't like Kodak Gold 200 in 120 either, for similar reasons that OP mentioned.

But recently I started to like it a bit more. I scan as slide and convert using Negative Labs Pro, and the color pallet seems to improve. Not as much yellow.
 

mshchem

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Only way to judge is with an optically printed, professionally balanced color print......Or, a professionally scanned and balanced image on a proper display.

I'm always amazed at the ultra high-quality video loops that Costco uses to sell Samsung and LG televisions. Goodness must be 8K video shot at some fabulous frame rate. Only walking up to these sets with a magnifying glass do these images come apart.

Someone needs to try using one of these sets for a contact print 😅 😵‍💫
 

Amund

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For reference, here are some Frontier scans of Gold in 35mm. Canon Elan 7, 35mm lens. Edit, not Canon, Leica M2. 50mm Elmar-M
lb3HM9d.jpeg

CX9EawR.jpeg

ovnNm8j.jpeg

69TRvsC.jpeg

7JU7DDI.jpeg




And here's a few 120-scans, Fuji GW690 2

eQBMOLA.jpeg

pbzekAC.jpeg

3YuoQxu.jpeg

iG4qT97.jpeg
 
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MattKing

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I've never found the Vuescan emulsion profiles to be ideal.
And I have doubts that they are revised particularly frequently.
Generally, I sample a few of the Vuescan profile options to see what seems to come closest with the film I am scanning, and then use that profile for the rest of the roll.
 

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