Regarding the color, I downloaded the image of the grassy park/city skyline and did a basic curves adjustment to correct the color (slightly increase green, slightly decrease blue). I also added a curves adjustment to give more overall contrast, as well as a vibrancy adjustment to give a little more saturation, and got basically the same thing that Koraks did (close enough that it would be redundant to post it). While Kodak Gold 200 might not be to everyone's liking, the problem here isn't the film; it's the inversion software (though, that doesn't preclude the possibility that the software in question can be good, just as you report, with other films).
My general view of the canned film profiles that are included in ColorPerfect and others (Silverfast, Vuescan, etc.) is that they're generally pretty hit or miss, and seem to miss more often than not for the films I use. They tend to produce what you have here -- results that are too flat, too cyan or magenta (magenta in your case), and too desaturated. Negative Lab Pro seems to produce the best out-of-the-box inversions (in my opinion), but it can miss, too.
When I forced myself to learn manual inversion from scratch (using an approach that's very similar to what Alex Burke does in his tutorials), it taught me a lot about RGB color relationships, and that knowledge became indispensable for correcting color casts more broadly (e.g., in slide film, in already-inverted color negatives, etc.). You'll quickly learn to identify the exact problem with any color photo that looks "off," and moreover, will find that the problems are pretty consistently the same ones in nearly every scan and/or inversion (too much magenta, too much blue, and skies that have too much cyan). It's amazing what you can do with minor curves adjustments to only two color channels and some contrast boosting.
Regarding the softness of the scans (e.g., the headshot of your wife), that has all the hallmarks of missed focus by the Nikon. My Nikon Coolscan and Imacon Flextight both produce soft, fuzzy grain that looks exactly like what you posted when they miss focus. Even a photograph in which the taking lens wasn't focused properly when creating the film exposure should still exhibit sharp, sandpaper-like grain in a properly focused scan. Thankfully, both the Nikon and the Flextight can be manually focused to correct focus problems. The Nikon is more difficult to manually focus, however, because the nature of the stock 35mm film holder is such that it allows for a lot of curl along the short axis of the film, which means that good focus in one spot of the frame (the center) might not translate to good focus in another (an edge).