Going to see used Mamiya C33 - what to look for? (edited from C22)

[jay moussy]

I may go see in a local C22 for sale. Not many details from seller, his late siblings'. Only add-on is a "bar, probably a flash holder.

I hear the camera is pretty rugged. What should I be looking for, if known problem areas?

Note that I started to use a Minolta Autocord, so wonder the addition of the C22 is going bring much, other than the pleasure of owing one more camera..!

 

[MattKing]

Are you asking about a Mamiya C22?

 

[jay moussy]

Are you asking about a Mamiya C22?

Yes.
Sorry about that, didn't know there were other types of C22s!

 

[chuckroast]

Make sure the bellows are light tight.

Check the focus at infinity on the ground glass and compare to what the camera indicates on the rail. Repeat for close focusing.

Make sure the shutter fires cleanly (assuming it has a lens) at all speeds.

Check the glass of the lens for cracks, fugus, mildew or signs the internal glue has dried up.

Make sure the diaphragm blades move smoothly throughout the range and there is no oil or residue on them.

The rack and pinion used to focus the camera can be a little stiff if the mechanics are dirty. This can easily be fixed with a bit of cleaning and very very light lubrication. But focus should be possible across the entire range without hard force or binding.

The big thing you'll get vs. the Autocord is interchangeable lenses and the ability to focus close.

 

[Dan Daniel]

The big thing you'll get vs. the Autocord is interchangeable lenses and the ability to focus close.

Well, size and weight are not insignificant differences.

 

[mgb74]

It's likely the lens is the older "chrome" version, with a Seikosha shutter. Parts are more difficult to find than for the newer "black" version with the Seiko shutter. If you're not familiar with the C22, be aware that (unlike the C33, C330) advancing the film does not cock the shutter. It is cocked separately.

In addition to the other items mentioned, make sure the hood opens and closes properly (including the magnifier) and the back is not warped/bent and latches properly.

 

[jay moussy]

CORRECTION: it is a C33, not C22.
I just re-read the ad, and it now reads C33, not sure if I misread, or title was edited

 

[mgb74]

CORRECTION: it is a C33, not C22.
I just re-read the ad, and it now reads C33, not sure if I misread, or title was edited

Then you want to make sure the film advance cocks the shutter. I'm not sure whether you need film (or a dummy roll) in the camera for this. According to the C330 manual (I realize you're looking at a C33), you just need a spool in the take up spool chamber.

 

[jay moussy]

Great, I will bring a dummy roll and spare spool then.

 

[MattKing]

In case you haven't seen it, Graham Patterson's wonderful Mamiya TLR resource: http://dotinthelandscape.org/mfaq/
He posts here on Photrio as @grahamp
And Mike Butkus' site has a manual - I'd suggest sending the requested donation: https://www.butkus.org/chinon/mamiya/mamiya_c33/mamiya_c33.htm

 

[pbromaghin]

My first C33 had the shutter cocking mechanism removed before I got it. On my second one, I found it just annoying and removed it.

You won't know this until you have put film through it, but the rubber padding between the focus screen and body will rot with age, throwing the distance to the lens out of agreement with the film plane-to-lens. This will manifest itself with the in-focus area on a photo being just a little bit in front of where you focused. It was only off by 1 mm, but was very evident, especially wide open at close range. I couldn't fix it myself due to my clumsiness with microscopic screws, etc., but it was quite easily handled by the local repair guy. The mounting method was changed, much for the better, on the C330.

 

[jay moussy]

Well, it is home.

Film advance/shutter lock was not allowing the shutter operation, so I let the owner remove the lens assembly and re-install, catching the shutter cocking index properly, this time and shutter works.
No idea if bellows are good, no way to test in a coffee shop.

It has the 105 3.5 lens it seems.

 

[MattKing]

I tweaked your thread title - apologies for the pedantry.

 

[jay moussy]

Ah, I will need a seal kit.
The thin longitudinal seals on the door are hard to replicate, as there is no channel to lodge in a thin homemade style.
I am getting a kit for a Bay seller others have used before.

The lower shutter speeds needed exercising, as expected. The camera had not been used in 46 years, I figured.

 

[chuckroast]

Ah, I will need a seal kit.
The thin longitudinal seals on the door are hard to replicate, as there is no channel to lodge in a thin homemade style.
I am getting a kit for a Bay seller others have used before.

The lower shutter speeds needed exercising, as expected. The camera had not been used in 46 years, I figured.

They are available precut, though I cut my own sometimes:

Mamiya C Series TLR Custom Light Seal Kit including C2 C22 C220 C3 C33 C330 Plus | eBay

This kit includes the door hinge seal on the back cover and the top / left / right door seal on the back cover. The light seals have the adhesive already applied and to install you just peel off the backing and press into place.

www.ebay.com

 

[jay moussy]

^^ that what I just got!
In a way, I wished adhesive wasn't on there already, afraid it may not drop exactly in place the first time.

 

[chuckroast]

^^ that what I just got!
In a way, I wished adhesive wasn't on there already, afraid it may not drop exactly in place the first time.

You coat the adhesive lightly with Purel hand cleaner which will give you time to set it before the cleaner evaporates and the adhesive sticks.

 

[chuckroast]

^^ that what I just got!
In a way, I wished adhesive wasn't on there already, afraid it may not drop exactly in place the first time.

You coat the adhesive side lightly with Purell hand cleaner. This gives you time to set the foam where it belongs before the cleaner evaporates and the adhesive sticks.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Are focusing scales on both sides of the camera body?

Remember to buy a ParaMinder for taking close up photographs. One of the best accessories for a Mamiya C2XX or C3xx.

 

[MattKing]

Remember to buy a ParaMinder for taking close up photographs.

I'd agree, but would point out that it is called a "Paramender".
And it came in three versions.
And no, you can't have my Model III Paramender .

 

[jay moussy]

Are focusing scales on both sides of the camera body?

Remember to buy a ParaMinder for taking close up photographs. One of the best accessories for a Mamiya C2XX or C3xx.

On the left is a large scale with curves for different lenses, and on right a small windowed one.
I saw the ParaMender on the bay.
I also suspect the late prior owner had more stuff but it did not make it to his sister, the seller. As an example, the lens minder dial was set to "180", so such a lens may have been on the body (I have 105)?
EDIT: could I use a 50mm wood spacer for now instead of a Paramender, focus normally and then raise taking lens by the spacer amount?

There is a mystery red bar marking on focusing screen, left side and 2/3 of the way down.

 

[grahamp]

Check the Lock/Unlock knob. This controls the latch that holds the lens locking wire in place (you should change lenses with the bellows contracted all the way). The red bar on the left of the finder indicates that he system is in Unlock state, and the internal baffle is covering the film. Set to Lock, and the bar should flip out of sight and the internal baffle goes down to reveal the film.

 

[mgb74]

On the left is a large scale with curves for different lenses, and on right a small windowed one.
I saw the ParaMender on the bay.
I also suspect the late prior owner had more stuff but it did not make it to his sister, the seller. As an example, the lens minder dial was set to "180", so such a lens may have been on the body (I have 105)?
EDIT: could I use a 50mm wood spacer for now instead of a Paramender, focus normally and then raise taking lens by the spacer amount?

There is a mystery red bar marking on focusing screen, left side and 2/3 of the way down.

If using a tripod with a center column, you can mark the center column. However, you loose the ability to adjust elevation with the center column except for that purpose.

 

[MattKing]

There is a mystery red bar marking on focusing screen, left side and 2/3 of the way down.

That is probably a relatively coarse indication for the parallax adjustment necessary when you work at very close distances from your subject.
The paramender - or any technique related to parallax adjustment - only comes into play when the subject to camera distance is less than approximately 10x the focal length of your lens.
And as for the lens minder setting, there is a fair chance that the former user rarely set that accurately anyways . It is an aid, but not a necessity.