going MANUAL without a meter, well sort of.

[ymc226]

I am planning on taking 2 cameras (leica M3 with 50mm) and nikon FM (built in meter) with 35mm lens on vacation with a Pentax digital spotmeter.

Rather than taking out the spotmeter on each picture taking occasion and with the M3 already slowing down the process a bit with manual focus, I wanted to use the following table taken from Fred Parker's Ultimate Exposure Computer. I will tape the table to the back of the M3.

EV f/stop
ASA 400 2.0 2.8 4 5.6 8 11 16 22 32
11 open shade 2000 1000 500 250 125 60 30 15 8
12 heavy overcast 2000 1000 500 250 125 60 30 15
13 cloudy-bright no shadows 2000 1000 500 250 125 60 30
14 weak, hazy sun 2000 1000 500 250 125 60
15 bright, hazy sun (sunny 16) 2000 1000 500 250 125
16 bright daylight sun/snow 2000 1000 500 250

I want to place skin tones in Zones 6-7 with black hair in sunlight in zones 3-4 to show texture detail. Are these values based on the usual meter 18% gray (Zone 5)? Have these exposure values worked for people in the past or should I open up a stop to get the skin tones lighter where I prefer them.

 

[ymc226]

The table didn't post as it should. The correct values would be for Tri X rated at 400:

f/2 f/2.8 f/4 f/5.6 f/8 f/11 f/16 f/22 f/32
EV 11 open shade 1/ 2000 1/1000 1/500 1/250 1/125 1/60 1/30 1/15 1/8
EV 12 heavy overcast 1/2000 1/1000 1/500 1/250 1/125 1/60 1/30 1/15
EV 13 cloudy-bright no shadows 1/2000 1/1000 1/500 1/250 1/125 1/60 1/30
EV 14 weak, hazy sun 1/2000 1/1000 1/500 1/250 1/125 1/60
EV 15 bright, hazy sun (sunny 16 rule) 1/2000 1/1000 1/500 1/250 1/125
EV 16 bright daylight, sun/snow 1/2000 1/1000 1/500 1/250

 

[Christopher Walrath]

Wirelessly posted (BlackBerry9000/4.6.0.167 Profile/MIDP-2.0 Configuration/CLDC-1.1 VendorID/102 UP.Link/6.3.0.0.0)

I've been guesstimating (read: sans meter) a lot lately and I am proud to say with good results. Of course, for the really important stuff my Weston Master IV is close at hand. Have a great trip.

 

[mr. mohaupt]

(there was a url link here which no longer exists)


I posted a lot on this... Might as even made some members think I am a fool. lol Now I own a Luna Pro. Have fun!

~m

 

[naeroscatu]

when you refer to zones your exposure is strictly related to your film and paper development. you need to approach this as a whole and test your equipment so you know what to expect.

 

[BetterSense]

I've been walking around with a meterless camera a lot lately. This is how I do it. A chart is too slow.

Normal everyday sunny: sunny 16 (maybe 22)
overcast: 2 stops more than S16
shade, sharp shadowns: 3 stops more than S16
deep shade, under large tent etc: 4 stops more than S16

use your brain for exposure compensation for backlighting etc.

This works very well; as long as it's daylight I get exposures as good as a metered camera. After the sun starts to go down it all falls apart and I'm helpless indoors.

Your questions about skintones and meter calibration can't really be answered except by your shooting and testing. We are talking about using an exposure chart here; the precise calibration of said exposure chart is not really in the picture.