Going Analog: Olympus OM2 or Canon AE-1?

[Ken N]

Olympus users are a rather strange bunch. We tend to think of our OM's as usable Leicas.

Would I pick the Canon over an Olympus of this era? Well, let's put it this way--the late Herbert Keppler's personal axe of choice was the Olympus. That should say something.

 

[BetterSense]

If you are looking for a good auto/manual camera body, don't forget about the Pentax ME Super. They tend to be pretty affordable. It has shutter buttons that take a bit of getting used to, but it is a great compact camera (slightly smaller than my OM2n) with a solid hotshoe

I have lots of 35mm cameras but the one I used the most is an extremely well-used ME Super. It must have been through 10 years as a film student loaner camera or something, because I have never seen a more beat up camera that still works. The focusing screen is ugly to look through and every corner is physically worn smooth, but it's quieter than my better-conditioned ME, lighter and smaller than any other 35mm camera I have, the aperture priority meter is still spot-on even for 30s night exposures, and I don't have to worry about cosmetically damaging it. It's in my backpack right now, while all my "better" cameras are at home on the shelf.

The only complaint I have is that I do not find the manual mode usable between the pushbutton adjustment and the awkward match-LED metering system. I've been keeping my eyes open for an OM1 for that reason.

 

[Dave in Kansas]

Relix,

The last several cameras I picked up off e-bay all needed foam and light seals replaced. I'm pretty certain some said "good working condition" or something similar. I've had very good success at KEH and feel they are very respectable.

 

[John Hermanson]

Yes, every OM-1, 1N, 2, 2N I see now for overhaul need new foam at the hinge, slot and mirror areas. John, www.zuiko.com

 

[funkpilz]

This thread was made for me, these were my two first SLRs. If you can find a decently priced OM-2 (which can be hard), get one of those. They're fantastic, and the Zuiko lenses are absolutely stunning. I'd choose the OM-2 over the AE-1 for its aperture priority AND manual mode, smaller build/weight and much more quiet operation. BUT it does have a few niggles, most importantly that the ISO only goes to 1600 ISO, also the lenses are VERY expensive.

 

[Ulrich Drolshagen]

The A-1 does look very interesting! 5 differint program modes (including Aperture priority), and aperture + shutter speed shown in the viewfinder.

But *no* usable manual mode, as the meter is not coupled to the shutter and aperture in manual mode. Nothing you would expect with a reasonable modern SLR. Look for a F1 if you prefer to go the Canon route. Quite expensive though.

Ulrich

 

[waynecrider]

The A-1 does look very interesting! 5 differint program modes (including Aperture priority), and aperture + shutter speed shown in the viewfinder.

Hmmm...

You're not making it easy to choose

First, when I bought my Nikkormat at $60 it cost me $135 plus shipping for a cla. I had researched the prices and everyone was very comparable and I went with a very well known firm. Unfortunately I had to return the camera as the idiots forgot to replace the light seals so it was more money. Would I spend the money again; no way. Old cameras although usable are not worth the effort unless you have had experience in them before and there is something that attracts you to re-invest or you get the ability to actually handle them. And don't belive for an instant that any one line of lenses is better then anothers. There are top lenses in all lines and dogs as well.

Secondly I just got a A1 Canon about two months ago and had it serviced. I found a rather decent deal thru Craig's list so I could see it. I'm very enamored with this little body compared to the many other brands I've used and handled and sold thruout the years. Some describe it as fiddly, and personally I could see that, but I wanted something in the Canon line (for the cheap lenses) with some automation for quicker shooting and the camera fit's the bill. I really don't see it as any more fiddly then having to scroll thru screens for options as everything is right there in front of you, top deck and right front. It's an option, but sometimes you have to go thru many bodies to find something that clicks with you personally.

Also, I don't understand after re-reading your original post why you don't go with a film body in your DSLR line if you can. It would make sense as you could use (theoretically) the film lenses on the D body when possible..

 

[Chaplain Jeff]

...

The price difference was due to AE-1 being a very popular semi-pro camera during the early eighties....

What???
The AE-1 was a CONSUMER camera - marketing the same people as the Minolta XG-1, Nikon FG, etc.
It's what my aunt, an elementary school teacher and mother of three took to Disneyland on the weekends - and what she tried to get me to buy as a kid who was interested in photography. NOT a semi-pro by any definition. For Canon from that era, wouldn't that be more like an A1?

I know for a fact that the AE-1 / AE-1 P were aimed at consumers, because I was a 13 year old kid who had to decide between an XG-1 and an AE-1 as his first SLR back in '81. I was a consumer. There was a $25 difference between the two at BEST and FEDCO - the two places I was pricing them.

The "real" cameras, the ones sold only at camera stores (or maybe ordered from the Sears Camera Catalogue - remember that?) were out of my league and not even a consideration. Those would have been the "semi-pro" models (although I must admit I'm not sure what the term means: a camera is either a consumer camera or it's what pros use - I think "semi-pro" is just a word for expensive bodies that aren't the "pro" models. Frankly, I think it's a marketing ploy to get non-professional photographers to justify the more expensive bodies.

Contemporary cameras to the AE-1 and OM2 that might be "semi-pro" probably included the Canon A1, the Nikon FM2, FA and the Minolta XD-11's (don't know about Oly) - were out of my price range. But the AE-1 / XG-1 cameras and a "kit bag, including a no-name 135mm lens, were priced at about what a jr. high kid could earn mowing lawns in a summer. That's what I did to get mine.

My grandfather, among other Olympuses, shot an OM2 (I was / am a Minolta guy, now along with Nikon and Leica, so I can't speak from personal experience) and it seems like they are "heavier" cameras - more metal than the Canon. But it too was a consumer camera - more along the lines of a Minolta XE series I think. I think it's also from that slightly earlier timeline, which may be why it's heavier.

Personally, between the two you mention, I would go with the Olympus.
If you want a Canon from this era, get an F1n or an A1. I had a friend who has both and they are very nice cameras - in a different bracket than the (still a good camera) AE-1.

Thanks and let us know what you decide.

 

[c.w.]

On the OM-2 you can adjust + or - 2 stops with the knob next to the film advance lever, so that should give you the possibility to use ISO3200 film by giving an extra stop.

I suppose i might point out that this is not the case. When you adjust the exposure compensation you're just turning the ISO dial, and it stops at 1600. Since the dial stops, you can't change the compensation so that you'd be shooting at 3200. The only way is to shoot in manual.

Since the needle points to the speed you'll want for the apature you're at in auto mode, it's not a huge deal, simply leave it at 1600, look at the shutter speed the needle points at, flip it to manual and put the speed at a stop below what it said in the window. Or just shoot in manual and put the needle at the bottom of the arrows, which involves a lot less flip flopping.

I've got two OM2n's and a friend lent me his AE1-Program to check how much it was worth. My impressions were that the AE1 was more solid, but more bulky and heavy, and the lenses were much larger. I liked the LED meter in the window, but after reading the manual a few times i still had trouble figuring out exactly how to put it in manual mode, do exposure compensation, ect. whereas i've never read the manual for my OMs, and everything just makes sense to me.

By far, to me at least, the worst thing about the AE1-Program was the breech lock lens mount instead of bayonet. Maybe it's just an aquired skill that i never practiced, but it always took me a good minute to swap lenses, whereas it takes about 5 seconds on my OMs.

There are some funky things to the OMs - the shutter select being a ring is a love it or hate it thing. Personally, it makes sense to me, I don't have to move my hand very far to switch it, or take my other hand off the release button. The ISO dial, at least on the 2, can be a little weird since it doubles as your exposure compensation, and since the meter needle isn't illuminated, it's VERY hard to see in the dark. I'd also like it if the center weighted metering were... how should i say this... more center weighted? But you can avoid that with the 2s, the 3, and the 4.

 

[Pumal]

To get the AE-1 out of 'shutter priority' you only have get the lens out of the 'A' position. And 'voilà'; Full Manual.

 

[relix]

I'm not buying a modern EOS analog camera, which would fit my current glass, because I want something completely different. I want to have to pull the winder to advance the film, rotate knobs or rings to set aperture and shutter, focus manually, and feel something different when I'm holding it. Also, I want it to be cheap, but since I'll have to get the camera serviced anyway, that has probably become a non-argument now.

Thanks Ulrich for that piece of info, I won't be buying the A-1 then after all, unless I find a really good deal.

I've discovered my dad actually still owns an Olympus OM-10 with a 35mm-70mm zoom lens. I remember this one from when I was really young, but it's been hidden away in the basement since. Dad says there's a problem with it, namely there's a black bar at the right of every photo. Sounds like a curtain-sync problem, maybe it's repairable? At the very least I'll be able to use the lens if I buy an OM.

Also, apparently there's a photography trade fair this Sunday near where I live. Such luck! I'll be standing in line before it opens to be able to get a first look at any possible bargains for these cameras. Is there a way to find out if a camera needs foam and light seals replaced quickly? I imagine I'll be able to handle the camera for a few seconds before I buy it. Maybe there'll be example photographs taken with it: can I see these defects on photos? God, I wish I wasn't such a newbie in analog

Can any or most camera repair centers fix these problems, or do I need to find someone specialized in these models?

 

[Q.G.]

I've discovered my dad actually still owns an Olympus OM-10 with a 35mm-70mm zoom lens. [...] At the very least I'll be able to use the lens if I buy an OM.

But don't judge Olympus quality by this zoom lens (nor the OM 10).
It usually is much better!

 

[Q.G.]

Contemporary cameras to the AE-1 and OM2 that might be "semi-pro" probably included the Canon A1, the Nikon FM2, FA and the Minolta XD-11's (don't know about Oly) [...]

The OM 2 was in the pro-league already.

High build quality (tough as nails), sensible metering system, and a great system, containing every bit of additional gear you could ever think of, to back it up.
It was unbeatable in the macro field (still is). The Autodynamic metering and OTF flash metering put it in a class of its own.

 

[relix]

There are a couple of sites that document how to replace light seals yourself (example)I'm now able to detect broken light seals (I hope!), so that's a plus. I might even try my hand at replacing them myself if they're deteriorated.

 

[John Koehrer]

To check the light seals all you need do is press on them.
They're in the grooves along the top & bottom of the flip open back.
If they're sticky or gummy they need to be replaced. It's not difficult with a little patience.
Seal kits are inexpensive & available online(see interslice). Do it yourself!
I never have had or done a CLA on a used camera. If the shutter seems to be working properly, the aperture in the lens is snappy & the meter is working. Use it 'til it needs to be repaired.
To quote an old camera guy I knew-"If it ain't broke don't fix it"

 

[wiltw]

In relative terms the OM-2 is more of a professional's camera, while the AE-1 was a mass market camera aimed at attracting Joe Consumer to SLRs. AE-1 was like the Olympus mass market camera, the OM-10

The OM-x (OM-1, OM-2, etc.) are the professional series, the OM-xx (OM-10, OM 20, OM-77) are the mass market series. In the lineage of the OM-n part of the family, the succession was

M-1
OM-1 (rebadged M-1 due to conflict with Leica)
OM-1MD
OM-2
OM-1n
OM-2n
OM-2SP
OM-4
OM-3
OM-4Ti
OM-3Ti


The OM-1 and -2 set a standard for the entire industry for viewfinder magnification, eclipsing even the best of the dSLRs of today. They were mechanical shutter cameras.

 

[MattKing]

I sold AE1s and AE1 Programs for years when they were current.

I've shot Olympus OM series cameras for decades, and currently have 6 different bodies (OM1, OM1n, OMG (2 of them), OM2S, OM2n). In some areas of the world, the OMG is known as an OM20, and the OM2S is known as the OM2Sp.

The ergonomics of the OM series is great for me, and the quality of the cameras and lenses and flashes and accessories has always impressed me.

I have voltage adapters for both my OM1 and my OM1n. They are not inexpensive, but they remove any issues concerning the batteries.

The OMG/OM20 is under-rated - it is an OM10 with built in manual control and most of the design peculiarities of the OM10 corrected. It is definitely lighter than the OM1/2/3/4 line though.

The OM2S is just about perfect, in my mind, if you don't mind that it goes through (easily located) S76 batteries quickly. The built in hot shoe is a real plus. The black finish (it never came in chrome) will inevitably show some brassing.

The foam issue is important - especially the mirror foam, as the rest of the foam is relatively easy to replace.

This might be just my impression, but it seems to me that Olympus must have been very successful in the UK, because eBay in the UK seems to have a lot of Olympus equipment on it.

Matt

 

[sidearm613]

I'm gonna go with the AE-1 because it is a really good camera to get into film with, and it is very cheap with some great optics. I might add that if you start to loving it the FD mount has some big pluses, like the (still expensive) L glass. Also, if you aren't used to tons of manual settings, an AE-1 program will almost fire the shutter for you, as far as old manual cameras go.

You could also look at the Pentax K1000, which is just as ubiquitous, and the lenses are still (sorta) compatible with pentax DSLRS. Which brings me to my next question.

What DSLR do you have, as you might be able to stay within the same lens family and just buy a body. Just something to think about. My 35mm is a canon EF mount, so if I choose to go to the dark side, all I need is the body. You might want to consider something similar.

 

[Ulrich Drolshagen]

There are a couple of sites that document how to replace light seals yourself (example)I'm now able to detect broken light seals (I hope!), so that's a plus. I might even try my hand at replacing them myself if they're deteriorated.

It's not the light seals whichare the problem but the same type of stuff is used inside the top around the prism. It eventually destroys the prism. You will have to get the top off the camera to get it out. The camera is so small that dealing with the interior of the camera is not a light task for an unexperienced user. I'd suggest letting it be done by a repairsman.

Ulrich

 

[Vanishing Point Ent.]

I'm not buying a modern EOS analog camera, which would fit my current glass, because I want something completely different. I want to have to pull the winder to advance the film, rotate knobs or rings to set aperture and shutter, focus manually, and feel something different when I'm holding it. Also, I want it to be cheap, but since I'll have to get the camera serviced anyway, that has probably become a non-argument now.

Thanks Ulrich for that piece of info, I won't be buying the A-1 then after all, unless I find a really good deal.

I've discovered my dad actually still owns an Olympus OM-10 with a 35mm-70mm zoom lens. I remember this one from when I was really young, but it's been hidden away in the basement since. Dad says there's a problem with it, namely there's a black bar at the right of every photo. Sounds like a curtain-sync problem, maybe it's repairable? At the very least I'll be able to use the lens if I buy an OM.

Also, apparently there's a photography trade fair this Sunday near where I live. Such luck! I'll be standing in line before it opens to be able to get a first look at any possible bargains for these cameras. Is there a way to find out if a camera needs foam and light seals replaced quickly? I imagine I'll be able to handle the camera for a few seconds before I buy it. Maybe there'll be example photographs taken with it: can I see these defects on photos? God, I wish I wasn't such a newbie in analog

Can any or most camera repair centers fix these problems, or do I need to find someone specialized in these models?

First of all, let's get past the " I own one, so you have to own one too, " arguments.

If you want to compare Olympus vs. Canon Manual Focus, I would say Canon wins out.

Why, Canon's " L " glass started here & in FD mount, is a LOT Cheaper than current EF mounts.

Olympus, doesn't really have anything that compare to that.

So we'll assume that Canon's your choice. Next, which one ?
I quoted you on top, because you said you wanted to wind film.
Before I saw that, I was going to suggest, a T90. Probably the ultimate in Canon. But Totally Electronic. So that leaves 2 possibilities.
1st an F1n.
This is a Pro camera, an improvement of the F1 & not the New F1. I won't go into the reasons why, unless you PM me, but stay away from the New F1, or ( sometimes called the F1N ).
You can tell the difference by sight, but not always from the sales description.
2nd is a Canon Pellix.
This is a manual everything camera, whose chief claim to fame is that it used a Pellicle Mirror.
Just like the F1 High Speeds, EOS RT & EOS RS. IF YOU CAN FIND A GOOD ONE.

But what I did, was to go with a Rangefinder. Despite the forum, this will give you capabilities that
another SLR, can't, film or Digital. Which one, look at a Voigtlander Bessa R, ( 2, 3,4 ).
You would have to research, which one fits your needs. It will do what you want & the lenses will allow you to do stuff, like shoot in very low light, or unobtrusively, that the SLR's couldn't possibly duplicate.

 

[Ulrich Drolshagen]

First of all, let's get past the " I own one, so you have to own one too, " arguments.

If you want to compare Olympus vs. Canon Manual Focus, I would say Canon wins out.

Why, Canon's " L " glass started here & in FD mount, is a LOT Cheaper than current EF mounts.

Olympus, doesn't really have anything that compare to that.

Yes, camera choice threads tend to eventually transform into advocacy threads.
Recommendations of the kind "go with brand x it is superior to brand y" can only be based on personal preferences which not necessarily must be the same as the ones who seeks advice. The OP will have to find his decision based on his own objectives and the technical information which we can provide, based on personal experience.
I, on my part, do not have any resilient facts on a competitive comparison between different premium brands of lenses.
Whether such comparison would be relevant to the OP will mostly depend on the desired print size. For instance, I use to print 8x11 mainly. At least up to this size I do not see any difference in quality between my Oly-Lenses and my MF Zeiss Lenses. Beyond this size grain is more of concern to me rather than sharpness. YMMV.

Ulrich

 

[Vanishing Point Ent.]

First of all, let's get past the " I own one, so you have to own one too, " arguments.

If you want to compare Olympus vs. Canon Manual Focus, I would say Canon wins out.

Why, Canon's " L " glass started here & in FD mount, is a LOT Cheaper than current EF mounts.

Olympus, doesn't really have anything that compare to that.

So we'll assume that Canon's your choice. Next, which one ?
I quoted you on top, because you said you wanted to wind film.
Before I saw that, I was going to suggest, a T90. Probably the ultimate in Canon. But Totally Electronic. So that leaves 2 possibilities.
1st an F1n.
This is a Pro camera, an improvement of the F1 & not the New F1. I won't go into the reasons why, unless you PM me, but stay away from the New F1, or ( sometimes called the F1N ).
You can tell the difference by sight, but not always from the sales description.
2nd is a Canon Pellix.
This is a manual everything camera, whose chief claim to fame is that it used a Pellicle Mirror.
Just like the F1 High Speeds, EOS RT & EOS RS. IF YOU CAN FIND A GOOD ONE.

But what I did, was to go with a Rangefinder. Despite the forum, this will give you capabilities that
another SLR, can't, film or Digital. Which one, look at a Voigtlander Bessa R, ( 2, 3,4 ).
You would have to research, which one fits your needs. It will do what you want & the lenses will allow you to do stuff, like shoot in very low light, or unobtrusively, that the SLR's couldn't possibly duplicate.

There is a Bessa 3 kit on eBay now. I don't know if the price is any good, but I will provide you with the eBay link. Just type in the Item # in to the
search window.

VOIGTLANDER R3A BESSA CAMERA LENSES AND ACC. MINT-
Item number: 250400728021

 

[Pumal]

If you are going to consider a Rangefider; consider Yashica Lynx 14e IC, Yashica Electro 35 GSN, Yashica MG-1. Ther all great cameras; good in low light, easy to carry and great in the street. Another to consider: Ricoh GX 500

 

[andrewc]

I don't have any experience with the Olympus OM-series cameras, although I hope to get one soon. I have used many of the Canon FL and FD bodies, including the AE-1 and AE-1P but neither of these moved me much at all. My favorite FD bodies are actually a couple of the mechanical ones, the FTbn and the original F-1. The F-1 is a superb piece of engineering and as tough as it needs to be to handle just about any photographic situation. Mine is getting a lot of use alongside my DSLR. Others have also mentioned the Pentax ME-Super. This is one of my absolute favorite SLRs. It's very compact, quiet, and smaller than a lot of my rangefinders, but performs superbly. The Pentax lenses are superb as well but a bit more expensive than some of the other brands, and definitely worth every penny.

 

[relix]

After Vanishing Point Ent. mentioned rangefinders, I thought, what the heck, let's look at some on ebay, and found a couple for a very good price. After a day of research my decision is set: I want a rangefinder! At least it'll be totally different from the SLR I have now, a totally new experience.

There are a lot of sites on rangefinders, so after having considered what appeals to me the most, I've got a new shortlist: Canonet QL 17, the Yashica Electro 35 or Lynx 14e, and the Konica S2.

The Bessa R, although it has excellent specs for the money, is too expensive for me(starting at €500). I might also pick up a FED or Zorki just for fun.

I'll scour ebay for a while (there was nothing interesting at the trade fair this morning) and should pick up a new rangefinder in the next couple of days. I'll keep you posted on which one I eventually did purchase!