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Glue suggestion?

So after reading over suggestions, seeing what is available in the US and is not going to require buying a gallon at atime, I am going to try JB Plastic Bonder. Two-part urethane for joining plastics and plastic to metal. Sold as an auto body panel adhesive among other things. Retains some flexibility.

Plastic Bonder Syringe - Black

PlasticBonder™is a quick-setting, two-part, urethane adhesive system that provides strong and lasting repairs and works on thermoset, carbon fiber composites, thermoplastics, coated metals, concrete & more.
www.jbweld.com

I will add a note after getting some in and trying it.

Again, thanks to everyone. The diversity of knowledge and experience here is very helpful.
 
Alan - there are all kinds of silicones. Cure times can be short. Entire categories don't contain acetic acid. But why be in a rush to put a camera into service anyway?

I've used moisture-cure urethanes to assemble some really heavy phenolic projects (plus some screw reinforcement). It's actually easier than gluing oily tropical hardwoods like in marine or special furniture projects. I was one of the first to receive test samples of Gorilla glue and then their competitors. Shelf life is a problem with both urethane glues and caulks;you want it reasonably fresh, and never from partially used bottles.

I forgot what I used on my last carbon fiber project, probably an epoxy.
 
The JB Plastic Bonder (not Plastic Welder, another JB product) is a two-part urethane. They specifically call out both metal and polycarbonate. I have not run into any mention of expansion. I'll remove paint from glue areas, and will scuff up the glue surfaces. I'll be painting everything with a matte paint, but it is helpful that it comes in black.
 
Sounds good. Polycarbonate (or poly-anything) is difficult to glue. Sanding is probably essential to give it a little more tooth. Always do a test sample first.
 
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